Alright, I'm finally getting off my butt to replace my cv boot, which exploded about 1 month ago. Luckily no clicking yet.

So here's my question. I searched the site and my FSM and Chilton, but only found one procedure (on Matt's FAQ's list) for replacing the boot, and it included removing the entire axle. Has any one replace just the outer boot without removing the axel from the transmission?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Andrew

 

I did about two weeks ago. I went to a parts store and purchased a split boot. The dumbest thing I ever did. First, you have to take off the stock boot, without the special tool. Not easy. Then when you finally do get the split boot on, you have to use these 5 or 6 tiny screws to screw to boot on. After, of course, you have regreese the joint. Then, after all of that, you will find out the boot hardly lasts very long, and its impossible to make it a clean job. Do it right the first time. Do put yourself though the same pain did!

 

You should really replace both boots if one is torn, even if the other isn't torn yet it probably will be soon. As far as doing the job without removing the axle; everyone I've talked to about this type of job has just gone ahead and had to remove the axle. My new axles are arriving this week, so we can go through the frustration at the same time. Maybe one of the CV joint gurus will respond for you soon. The only info I have is from archiving old threads and matt's faq, and I'm going to try the job without a FSM. You've done yourself a favor by searching first, you will probably get better responses from people by doing that first and knowing a little bit about what you're talking about. Good luck.
-Les

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I was trying to avoid putting in a whole new axle if I could. And I definately dont want to use one of the split boots that screw together. So I'm looking for a simple way to do just the outer boot. I just helped my friend replace his boot tonight on his Audi, and it was simple.
Any of you experienced guys have some suggestions?

Thanks again,

Andrew

 

If the boot tore recently you could just replace the inner and outer boot and be fine. It's just a personal choice; do you want to spend the extra money and get a reman. axle and get a warranty on it, or just replace the boots (not very expensive at all) and hope things work fine.

 

I would like to replace just the boots if possible. I don't hear any noises from the joints at this time.

 

Go to the nearest Nissan dealership, call up Courtesy Nissan, Jag Works, or even carparts.com to order some boots. They are not expensive. Probably around $8-$10 each.

 

Thanks. I was going to do that. I still have a few questions though. If I am replacing just the boots, what tools, replacement parets will I need? This is all I know so far:
Parts needed:
Boots
Bands
Grease
Cotter pin

Tools
snap-ring removal tool

What am I missing? I hope to do the job in one evening, so I can get to work the next day. Nothing worse than starting a job and finding you are missing a critical part/tool.

 

I think there are special "cv-boot band pliers" to tighten the bands that go around the boot, but you can probably improvise with ordinary pliers. I have to do both sides on my car as well. I think you're bettr off to just replace the boots if your joints are still good, you'll save lots fo cash.
Good luck.

 

Youcertaily can't improvise with pliers and expect it to hold. Trust me on that. And forget about the parts counter boot bands that need no special tools. They are worthless crap. I was in a pinch and used regular old screw type band clamps. Can't find one long enough? Thread them together. People said it would cause imbalance in the rotating assembly, but I have had the car up to 130 and everywhere in between with no vibration. The radius is small enough that the weight of the little screw part of the clamp will make no difference. Or just get the special ppliers and do it right. Not easy to come by for some reason though.
As a side note, the one I did two years ago with the band clamp is holding up fine, but the otherside recently took a big crap on me..dammit to hell! Oh yeah, don't overtighten the clamps either, the edges can cut into the rubber and youll be back at square one in no time.
To yank the axle, you will definately need and impact wrench and big socket (forget the size) or the same socket, big breaker bar and a five foot long pipe to fit over the handle of the bar. Depending on how it goes, you might end up lifting the car right off the jack and stand!. The rest are regular hand tools. Remove the wheel, caliper (hang it from the strut with a coathanger or string, don't let it dangle by the hose unless you feel like replacing that too), rotor and axle nut. Unbolt the three ball joint bolts and separate it from the control arm, pull out on the hub while tapping the end of the axle with a brass hammer or wood block andd regular hammer so as to not damage threads on axle, and it should come right out. Do the boot. If you are replacing the axle, a brass rod and hammer on the inner joint should work it out. Now reverse the process. Good luck

 

my boots are torn up... every month or so i fill the joint. but i dont think i would be able to to take apart the axel of the car, i cant even get the wheels off...and i dought i have the tools

-how much for a set of axels, what do places charge to do the jobs?

 

It will be like 250 for both axles. It's a relatively easy job..I could do a CV axle in like 25 minutes (on a lift of course) and get paid for an hours work, depending on the car, sometimes more. And stop putting grease in there, just makes a mess of your undercarraige. I have driven a car with bad axles (clicking and all, not just torn boots) for a LONG time (a year at least) before I got to changing them. When they start clicking driving straight, it's time!

 

Thanks guys for the help. If I can get the parts, I hope to do it in the next few days.

 

I got both of mine for $87 shipped

 

I agree with not buying the split boot!!! Those things are worthless pieces of ****!!! If replacing the inner and outer boot...you might as well replace the axle. I just did my driver side about 1 month ago. Axle=42.00 w/core return!!!
I believe when i did the passenger side it was about 60-70 bux!!
I would recommend just replacing the whole axle!!! And plus when you replace the boot you're gonna end up buying a damn crimping tool to tighten the band around the boot which runs you around 5-10 bucks. All together it would cost more than the reman axle!!
but this is just all my opinion!!!

bj yang

 

Do you remember where you got the axle for $42.00? I can't find anything cheaper than $70-80 per axle with core return. Also, do you have to drain tranny fluid when replacing the axles?

 

you don't HAVE to... but you will regret it if you don't because you will get tranny fluid all over the place later.

 

So is it just pouring out of there or it's just dripping? I mean... I don't care if I get some fluid on my driveway (it's appartment complex), but if there going to be nothing left in the tranny.. then it's a problem. Also, do you remember where you got the axles for $85/pair?

 

ShowMax:

Do you remeber where you bought the axels for $42?

Andrew

 

I got mine cheap because a fellow org member wrecked his car and sold me his axles very cheap.

 

If you don't drain the fluid, you'll have 2 or 3 quarts of goo on the ground when you're done. unfortunately, I found that one out the hard way.

be sure to replace the axle seals when you do it too. you'll thank me later when you only have to do the job once.

 

I got mine replaced at a chain place called the Axle Connection. They charged me $250 for both sides getting them rebuilt. The parts have lasted for 4 years (60 k miles) now and I definately feel it was worth it.

One thing to keep in mind on your CV joints, if they EVER crack/leak this is a sign that dust and dirt have infected the joint. Use your own good judgement to determine if the units need to be repaired or replaced, but I would recommend the sooner the better (as far as getting them repaired). Also, if the boot leaks the joint MUST be repaired / replaced.

Called the Nissan dealer about my '92 SE and they stated that the SE's (at least my year) has a special cv joint with a double step-down gear that costs significantly more than a standard joint. Like $1100 for the parts alone !!

So the $250 paid was well worth it not to have to play in the grease, etc. I never liked those split boots anyway. A waste of time more so than the $10 you spend for them.

Be young, have fun..

 

Seriously, replace those seals. Be careful installing them too..you have to get them just right or they will leak.