Well, Ive finally got my car back together and running. I installed an underdrive pulley, a WSP y-pipe, JWT cams and fixed exhaust studs. My car is now slower! How can this be? Timing is good, runs smooth, sounds good, but runs slower. WTF!!!!! Ill be calling Jim wolf tomorrow but hopefully someone knows something here too. Thanks for the help,
Dano

 

damn that sucks! If I were you I would go over everything and reset the computer. When installed my underdrive pulley I didn't feel anything but that night I disconnected my battery for 24 hrs and the next day when I plugged it in it felt much better. Hope everything works out and you get to feel a gain than a loss. Something must be wrong because with just a y-pipe other 3rd gen owners feel a difference, something must be wrong.

 

you're sure you got the timing belt on correctly.. they'll run and sound okay at idle, but will have almost NO power if you got one of the cams a tooth off on the timing...

Also, it could jsut be a break-in thing. be careful on the car with the new cams for a little while.. there is a break-in period..

 

Yeah my friend did his own timing belt on his eagle talon and it seemed to idle fine but it had a loss of power but then I took it apart and found that he didn't match all the timing marks correctly and then I did it for him and no problem and the power was restored.

 

What do you mean by slower? For example, you could get a high-end cam and low-end would suffer. BTW, Nismomaxt, you said you have a y-pipe. Do you have an intake, high flow cat, b-pipe, etc? If you don't have the whole exhaust done and cai (I'm assuming you do) then you aren't getting enough air in and out. That could certainly hurt.

 

How do you know it's slower? Is that an actual measurement or it's just 'feel' slower? Because our natural, biological 'sensors', so to speak, aren't designed to measure acceleration with any kind of precision. So maybe you simply have great expectation on how fast it's gonna be after all those work and $$, and the car is just not improve that much, though it may still be faster than it was before.

 

I have the greddy catback and the stillen intake. I have the cattman CAI but Im having some problems with the fit. I think Ive gained quite a bit after 3500 RPM but Ive lost quite a bit in the low end. Not sure if this is an improvement overall. Im looking into a Level 10 torque conv. but Ive already spent an awfull lot on this car. All in all Im happy with it but I really dont think the VG takes to mods as well as a lot of people here think it does. Ive done just about every minor mod. available and this car still isnt what Id call fast. Im a die hard Nissan fan but if you want speed..dont buy a GXE.

 

it seems to me that the cams wont really show their potential until some headwork is done- that's when the vg shows its powah!!!

 

So you drive an auto . Outside of boost or n2o there isn't much you can do to the VG at least NA wise. Given full bolt ons and cams+headwork an auto is looking around 150-158whp. Figure low-mid 15s with a high stall converter and weight reduction. You should really add n2o to the bolt ons. It would allow you to run low 14s on a 50-60 shot. Otherwise to be "fast" NA requires a motorswap and some chassic modification *sledgehammer*.

 

hmmm, so you have an auto...the question now is which stage cam did you install, I or II???

 

This question might not even be valid for the VG...

Did you adjust the valve lash for the new duration and lift of the cam?

JWT should have included the new specs with the cam.

When I got my cam for my 95 SI, I had to adjust the valve lash and use their upgraded computer for everything to work correctly. Keep in mind I only gained .2 in the 1/4 mile. Not that impressive.

 

VG doesnt have adjustable valve lash and it was the s-1 cams. The cams didnt come with anything but JWT stickers.

 

well how high have you revved the car since you installed the cams?

and just to know, what are the specs of the stage 1 cams anyways??

 

A few guys have been hinting at cam break-in, but...

I dont think improper cam break-in would cause this type of power "loss" that is described.

Proper cam break-in procedure:

http://www.jimcookperformance.com/Te...7cambreak.html