Installing all new suspension
01-17-2003, 07:10 AM
#1
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Installing all new suspension
Is there any tips, tricks, or hints anybody knows for changing out rear shocks and all the bushings? I'm doing it tomorrow with a friend of mine, cuz it needs it bad. I'm tired of driving the womans car
01-17-2003, 07:50 AM
#2
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here, look into this site:click here
01-17-2003, 10:43 PM
#4
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01-18-2003, 09:23 AM
#5
Originally posted by Nissan-R
here, look into this site:click here
here, look into this site:click here
To get the upper front parrallel link off you have to either drop the suspension member (where everything is connected) or drop the gas tank. I chose the suspension member but dont know if that is the best way.
good luck.
01-18-2003, 01:33 PM
#6
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Posts: 159
Definitely drop the suspension member, not the tank. A fellow enthusiast and I have done all the rear bushing on my 93 SE. We used an indispensible Harbor Freight 12 ton press. Once we got the hang of it it went fast, except for the bushings in the stock rear sway bar. They were metal to metal with a very thin bracket holfing it so the press would not work, I had to cut that one out. If you have not had your rear suspension apart before be prepared to deal with some badly frozen nuts or bolts.
Make sure you tighten all the bolts going through bushings with weight on the car. First time I lovered it on cinder blocks, leaving very little crawl space. The second time I tightened the bushinigs hand tight, and then drove the rear on ramps. One of the big front to rear bolt will be tricky to get to with the wheels on, so be patient. The whole exercise will be worth it. Have it four wheel aligned afterward. My alignment was way off.
John
Make sure you tighten all the bolts going through bushings with weight on the car. First time I lovered it on cinder blocks, leaving very little crawl space. The second time I tightened the bushinigs hand tight, and then drove the rear on ramps. One of the big front to rear bolt will be tricky to get to with the wheels on, so be patient. The whole exercise will be worth it. Have it four wheel aligned afterward. My alignment was way off.
John
01-18-2003, 09:01 PM
#7
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Posts: 103
Originally posted by John van de Pol
Definitely drop the suspension member, not the tank. A fellow enthusiast and I have done all the rear bushing on my 93 SE. We used an indispensible Harbor Freight 12 ton press. Once we got the hang of it it went fast, except for the bushings in the stock rear sway bar. They were metal to metal with a very thin bracket holfing it so the press would not work, I had to cut that one out. If you have not had your rear suspension apart before be prepared to deal with some badly frozen nuts or bolts.
Make sure you tighten all the bolts going through bushings with weight on the car. First time I lovered it on cinder blocks, leaving very little crawl space. The second time I tightened the bushinigs hand tight, and then drove the rear on ramps. One of the big front to rear bolt will be tricky to get to with the wheels on, so be patient. The whole exercise will be worth it. Have it four wheel aligned afterward. My alignment was way off.
John
Definitely drop the suspension member, not the tank. A fellow enthusiast and I have done all the rear bushing on my 93 SE. We used an indispensible Harbor Freight 12 ton press. Once we got the hang of it it went fast, except for the bushings in the stock rear sway bar. They were metal to metal with a very thin bracket holfing it so the press would not work, I had to cut that one out. If you have not had your rear suspension apart before be prepared to deal with some badly frozen nuts or bolts.
Make sure you tighten all the bolts going through bushings with weight on the car. First time I lovered it on cinder blocks, leaving very little crawl space. The second time I tightened the bushinigs hand tight, and then drove the rear on ramps. One of the big front to rear bolt will be tricky to get to with the wheels on, so be patient. The whole exercise will be worth it. Have it four wheel aligned afterward. My alignment was way off.
John
Thanks for the input. The job is done, I actually did it twice(four hours the first time, 50 minutes the second...blazing!). I forgot to put the spacers in the shock canister, so they made horrible sounds. Now it sounds better, but the back tires still lean inward alittle. Any ideas on that? Would adjusting the camber fix it or do I need somthing more like shimming or somthing?
01-18-2003, 09:29 PM
#8
Originally posted by Luv4DSC
Thanks for the input. The job is done, I actually did it twice(four hours the first time, 50 minutes the second...blazing!). I forgot to put the spacers in the shock canister, so they made horrible sounds. Now it sounds better, but the back tires still lean inward alittle. Any ideas on that? Would adjusting the camber fix it or do I need somthing more like shimming or somthing?
Thanks for the input. The job is done, I actually did it twice(four hours the first time, 50 minutes the second...blazing!). I forgot to put the spacers in the shock canister, so they made horrible sounds. Now it sounds better, but the back tires still lean inward alittle. Any ideas on that? Would adjusting the camber fix it or do I need somthing more like shimming or somthing?
01-19-2003, 08:54 AM
#9
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Originally posted by awsm66
Thats one of the reasons I am doing mine. I took the adjustable parallel links off of my parts car to put in place of the solid link on my car. That way I can have the camber adjusted.
Thats one of the reasons I am doing mine. I took the adjustable parallel links off of my parts car to put in place of the solid link on my car. That way I can have the camber adjusted.
01-19-2003, 12:13 PM
#10
Originally posted by Luv4DSC
I have the adjustable links on my car, but would adjusting them fix the lean on the tires. It leans so much that the inside track of both tires are now bald and the outsides still have 80%...thats in two months.
I have the adjustable links on my car, but would adjusting them fix the lean on the tires. It leans so much that the inside track of both tires are now bald and the outsides still have 80%...thats in two months.
Now if you didnt replace the solid arm with an adjustable (remember our cars come with an adjustable rear parallel link and solid front parallel link) then all you can do is adjust the toe and that will not fix the lean or tire wear.
01-19-2003, 06:31 PM
#11
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Originally posted by awsm66
so you replaced the one (on each side) solid arm with an adjustable one? If you did then you can adjust them and that will bring the bottom of the tire in and get rid of the wear. Whey I say "you" I actually mean a shop that does 4 wheel alignment.
Now if you didnt replace the solid arm with an adjustable (remember our cars come with an adjustable rear parallel link and solid front parallel link) then all you can do is adjust the toe and that will not fix the lean or tire wear.
so you replaced the one (on each side) solid arm with an adjustable one? If you did then you can adjust them and that will bring the bottom of the tire in and get rid of the wear. Whey I say "you" I actually mean a shop that does 4 wheel alignment.
Now if you didnt replace the solid arm with an adjustable (remember our cars come with an adjustable rear parallel link and solid front parallel link) then all you can do is adjust the toe and that will not fix the lean or tire wear.
01-19-2003, 09:14 PM
#12
Originally posted by Luv4DSC
No, I did not replace the solid ones with adjustable, so how can the lean be fixed? Will I have to put adjustable ones in, and if so just get two off a junker and put em on or will that not work? Since I cannot adjust the camber how can an alignment shop with out bending things, and how could the tires even lean in the first place? The top mounts are good, the tires were balanced and true, everything is as it should be, then how?
No, I did not replace the solid ones with adjustable, so how can the lean be fixed? Will I have to put adjustable ones in, and if so just get two off a junker and put em on or will that not work? Since I cannot adjust the camber how can an alignment shop with out bending things, and how could the tires even lean in the first place? The top mounts are good, the tires were balanced and true, everything is as it should be, then how?
to be able to adjust the camber you will need to replace the solid parallel link with an adjustable one. You can get the adjustable one off of a junked 3rd gen.
01-20-2003, 07:10 AM
#13
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Originally posted by awsm66
Is your car lowered? When you lower a car it changes the geometry of the suspension and that is what is making the tires mess up.
to be able to adjust the camber you will need to replace the solid parallel link with an adjustable one. You can get the adjustable one off of a junked 3rd gen.
Is your car lowered? When you lower a car it changes the geometry of the suspension and that is what is making the tires mess up.
to be able to adjust the camber you will need to replace the solid parallel link with an adjustable one. You can get the adjustable one off of a junked 3rd gen.
01-20-2003, 09:53 AM
#14
Originally posted by Luv4DSC
No it's not lowered and nothing else is different, its all stock in the rear. Thanks for the info I'll go and pick em up today.
No it's not lowered and nothing else is different, its all stock in the rear. Thanks for the info I'll go and pick em up today.
01-20-2003, 10:55 AM
#15
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Originally posted by awsm66
thats odd if it isnt lowered. Good luck...you may try going to a shop and have them check the alignment since doing the bushings. It may apear to lean but still be in spec.
thats odd if it isnt lowered. Good luck...you may try going to a shop and have them check the alignment since doing the bushings. It may apear to lean but still be in spec.
F*@k it!
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