Auto - 5speed swap
#3
Originally posted by Shadow1198
The auto and manual mounts or both different. Axles are the same though, so you can just use the ones from your auto.
The auto and manual mounts or both different. Axles are the same though, so you can just use the ones from your auto.
#5
Originally posted by Shadow1198
Yeah, I meant the mounts are different. I have to say, so far with the 5spd swap and WSP y, b, cat, borla turbo muffler the difference from auto is like night and day!
Yeah, I meant the mounts are different. I have to say, so far with the 5spd swap and WSP y, b, cat, borla turbo muffler the difference from auto is like night and day!
#7
Originally posted by Brandon90gxe
how complicated is it.. i have the engine out of my car right now, and the thought is kind of lurring in the back of my head abotu maybe swapping over.. dril out the clutch pedal, add master cylinder, hmm...
how complicated is it.. i have the engine out of my car right now, and the thought is kind of lurring in the back of my head abotu maybe swapping over.. dril out the clutch pedal, add master cylinder, hmm...
#8
Well, with the engine out it should be even easier. Everything basically bolts up. You have to do some wiring, and it helps to use the manual ECU (I'm a dumbass and didn't get one). Also, you have to drill 3 holes for the master cylinder. To save everyone some trouble, if any of you do the manual swap make absolutely sure to adjust your clutch pedal height and freeplay! I put 1k on my clutch riding it the whole time. Basically, I mounted the pedal a little too close to the fire wall so when I adjusted everything to spec, it was too close and there was absolutely no freeplay. The clutch wouldn't fully engage and I couldn't figure out what the problem was. I thought it was something serious until I adjusted the pedal and freeplay on the master cylinder pushrod.
One of the more important things is make absolutely sure that you at least replace the clutch master and slave cylinder, hydraulic lines (if they aren't good condition), shifter bushings and any mounts that look in bad condition. I'm an idiot and still have to replace the shift bushings, which involves dropping the exhaust and pulling the shifter assembly out.
One of the more important things is make absolutely sure that you at least replace the clutch master and slave cylinder, hydraulic lines (if they aren't good condition), shifter bushings and any mounts that look in bad condition. I'm an idiot and still have to replace the shift bushings, which involves dropping the exhaust and pulling the shifter assembly out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jmlee44
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
10-02-2022 03:13 PM
TallTom
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
50
07-08-2022 10:54 AM
HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
2
09-29-2015 03:02 PM