Exhaust Setup Opinions
#1
Exhaust Setup Opinions
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.
thanks
thanks
#2
Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions
Originally posted by MAX89'
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.
thanks
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.
thanks
And, if you really want to, you can get a high-flow catalytic converter from WSP and then get a Greddy cat-back exhaust setup if you really want high flow and you've got the bucks to spend on it. Hope this helps.
#3
heh, if you're missing manifold bolts, unless you have a hook up I don't think you'll have much money for exahust mods left after you get those studs/bolts replaced(especially if they are on the rear manifold)
#4
Re: Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions
Originally posted by MaximaBalla
First off, they don't make headers for the Maxima. Second off, if I were to get a y-pipe, I'd go with WSP. www.warpspeedperformance.com
And, if you really want to, you can get a high-flow catalytic converter from WSP and then get a Greddy cat-back exhaust setup if you really want high flow and you've got the bucks to spend on it. Hope this helps.
First off, they don't make headers for the Maxima. Second off, if I were to get a y-pipe, I'd go with WSP. www.warpspeedperformance.com
And, if you really want to, you can get a high-flow catalytic converter from WSP and then get a Greddy cat-back exhaust setup if you really want high flow and you've got the bucks to spend on it. Hope this helps.
#5
Re: Re: Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions
Originally posted by Fosgate Fan
well...pacesetter claims they have headers for 3rd gen maxes...but i highly doubt they actually do have them in stock.
well...pacesetter claims they have headers for 3rd gen maxes...but i highly doubt they actually do have them in stock.
#7
Pacesetter, not the greatest quality I wouldn't even bother with them. Just get the studs replaced and make sure that the exhaust manifold is not warped. For a new exhaust system I suggest warpspeed y-pipe, carsound hi-flow cat and Greddy exhaust. Greddy is a bit expensive but its pleasing to the ear, not ricey at all. You can also talk to awsm66 he has a custom set-up that costs half the price and it sounds really close to a Greddy. I had my exhaust done in the same day after I pulled out of the shop it felt like a completely different car.
#9
Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions
Originally posted by MAX89'
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.
thanks
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.
thanks
#11
my friends dad is a mechanic and he's going to help me with the exhaust stutds and replace anything else that needs work, i still have the money to do that. cattman does have access to a header/y-pipe arrangement for our cars but they cost $725 and i would have had to wait 3-4 months for them to get in stock. we are thinking that we're taking the manifolds off of my car...
-what should i buy so we're ready to put it all back together?
-what is the best way to go about replacing those studs and making sure it's all sound?
-what should i buy so we're ready to put it all back together?
-what is the best way to go about replacing those studs and making sure it's all sound?
#12
The greatest advantage you will have over most of us that did it ourself is the hoist. A hoist beats laying under the car for hours to remove maybe two broken studs if you are lucky. Anyway, run a level across the manifold to make sure it is not warped. If it is order a new manifold. I spent a great deal of time having mine milled and then months later I again had broken studs because the y-pipe did not fit properly. This caused added stress on the manifold and hence the studs broke (only two of them). Get a manifold off directauto.com for around $120(rear only and it is new) if your manifold is warped. Other tools include a good easy out and a 90 degree drill with harda$$ bits. GOOD LUCK!!!
#13
Originally posted by keener
The greatest advantage you will have over most of us that did it ourself is the hoist. A hoist beats laying under the car for hours to remove maybe two broken studs if you are lucky. Anyway, run a level across the manifold to make sure it is not warped. If it is order a new manifold. I spent a great deal of time having mine milled and then months later I again had broken studs because the y-pipe did not fit properly. This caused added stress on the manifold and hence the studs broke (only two of them). Get a manifold off directauto.com for around $120(rear only and it is new) if your manifold is warped. Other tools include a good easy out and a 90 degree drill with harda$$ bits. GOOD LUCK!!!
The greatest advantage you will have over most of us that did it ourself is the hoist. A hoist beats laying under the car for hours to remove maybe two broken studs if you are lucky. Anyway, run a level across the manifold to make sure it is not warped. If it is order a new manifold. I spent a great deal of time having mine milled and then months later I again had broken studs because the y-pipe did not fit properly. This caused added stress on the manifold and hence the studs broke (only two of them). Get a manifold off directauto.com for around $120(rear only and it is new) if your manifold is warped. Other tools include a good easy out and a 90 degree drill with harda$$ bits. GOOD LUCK!!!
Snapon, Craftsman, Mac and all the other big name tool makers carry them in their catalog. You may have to order them, but it's worth it. Even Harbor Freight has a set of 4 for under $5.
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