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Exhaust Setup Opinions

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Old 05-14-2003, 05:08 PM
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Exhaust Setup Opinions

i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.

thanks
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Old 05-14-2003, 08:19 PM
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Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions

Originally posted by MAX89'
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.

thanks
First off, they don't make headers for the Maxima. Second off, if I were to get a y-pipe, I'd go with WSP. www.warpspeedperformance.com
And, if you really want to, you can get a high-flow catalytic converter from WSP and then get a Greddy cat-back exhaust setup if you really want high flow and you've got the bucks to spend on it. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-14-2003, 08:30 PM
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heh, if you're missing manifold bolts, unless you have a hook up I don't think you'll have much money for exahust mods left after you get those studs/bolts replaced(especially if they are on the rear manifold)
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Old 05-14-2003, 09:08 PM
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Re: Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions

Originally posted by MaximaBalla


First off, they don't make headers for the Maxima. Second off, if I were to get a y-pipe, I'd go with WSP. www.warpspeedperformance.com
And, if you really want to, you can get a high-flow catalytic converter from WSP and then get a Greddy cat-back exhaust setup if you really want high flow and you've got the bucks to spend on it. Hope this helps.
well...pacesetter claims they have headers for 3rd gen maxes...but i highly doubt they actually do have them in stock.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:33 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions

Originally posted by Fosgate Fan


well...pacesetter claims they have headers for 3rd gen maxes...but i highly doubt they actually do have them in stock.
Seeing this I just went to the pacesetter site (http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/) and didn't find ONE thing for 3rd gen Max's let alone the SE variant. You got any part numbers?
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Old 05-21-2003, 02:05 PM
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They claim that they do have the pacesetters in backordered now so I dont know if it is really work very well cuz i have not heard from anyone who owns one on their 3rd gens car.
 
Old 05-21-2003, 02:34 PM
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Pacesetter, not the greatest quality I wouldn't even bother with them. Just get the studs replaced and make sure that the exhaust manifold is not warped. For a new exhaust system I suggest warpspeed y-pipe, carsound hi-flow cat and Greddy exhaust. Greddy is a bit expensive but its pleasing to the ear, not ricey at all. You can also talk to awsm66 he has a custom set-up that costs half the price and it sounds really close to a Greddy. I had my exhaust done in the same day after I pulled out of the shop it felt like a completely different car.
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Old 05-21-2003, 06:28 PM
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yeah I need mine replaced and I've gotten quotes from $500-800 bucks for the rears. OUCH!!
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Old 05-21-2003, 06:44 PM
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Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions

Originally posted by MAX89'
i just had a mechanic diagnose a ticking noise coming from under my hood and turns out the engine is just missing some bolts on the exhaust manifold. hence the noise i'm hearing is a/many leaks. so i'm now looking at getting new stuff from the manifold back. any ideas on headers, y/f pipe, and such would be much appreciated.

thanks
before considering modifying the rest of the exhaust i'd suggest getting those studs replaced first
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Old 05-22-2003, 07:34 AM
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Re: Re: Exhaust Setup Opinions

Originally posted by Chris91SE


before considering modifying the rest of the exhaust i'd suggest getting those studs replaced first
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Old 05-22-2003, 09:41 AM
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my friends dad is a mechanic and he's going to help me with the exhaust stutds and replace anything else that needs work, i still have the money to do that. cattman does have access to a header/y-pipe arrangement for our cars but they cost $725 and i would have had to wait 3-4 months for them to get in stock. we are thinking that we're taking the manifolds off of my car...
-what should i buy so we're ready to put it all back together?
-what is the best way to go about replacing those studs and making sure it's all sound?
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:24 PM
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The greatest advantage you will have over most of us that did it ourself is the hoist. A hoist beats laying under the car for hours to remove maybe two broken studs if you are lucky. Anyway, run a level across the manifold to make sure it is not warped. If it is order a new manifold. I spent a great deal of time having mine milled and then months later I again had broken studs because the y-pipe did not fit properly. This caused added stress on the manifold and hence the studs broke (only two of them). Get a manifold off directauto.com for around $120(rear only and it is new) if your manifold is warped. Other tools include a good easy out and a 90 degree drill with harda$$ bits. GOOD LUCK!!!
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:57 PM
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Originally posted by keener
The greatest advantage you will have over most of us that did it ourself is the hoist. A hoist beats laying under the car for hours to remove maybe two broken studs if you are lucky. Anyway, run a level across the manifold to make sure it is not warped. If it is order a new manifold. I spent a great deal of time having mine milled and then months later I again had broken studs because the y-pipe did not fit properly. This caused added stress on the manifold and hence the studs broke (only two of them). Get a manifold off directauto.com for around $120(rear only and it is new) if your manifold is warped. Other tools include a good easy out and a 90 degree drill with harda$$ bits. GOOD LUCK!!!
One thing I ALWAYS recommend when talking about drilling out studs is using left twist drill bits. When you use normal drill bits in a drill going the normal way if the studs becomes loose at all the drilling action screws it in tighter. With a left twist bit in a reversed drill if that stud gets loose at all the natural action is to start screwing it out. I done on several occasions where halfway into the broken stud it just started screwing itself out.

Snapon, Craftsman, Mac and all the other big name tool makers carry them in their catalog. You may have to order them, but it's worth it. Even Harbor Freight has a set of 4 for under $5.
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