jakeru

Hi,

I've got a torn passenger side outer (wheel side) CV boot and am in need some expert advise as to how to fix it. So far, there has been no "clicking" or other noises that suggest the joint is bad. But there is grease all around the torn boot.

My main question is: should I replace the whole passenger side halfshaft, or just repack the outer CV joint and install a new dust boot?

I got a price from a local parts store on a rebuilt passenger side halfshaft at about $60 + core; doesn't seem bad at all. However, looking at the halfshaft replacement procedure, I am concerned that it says you need a special tool to insert into the transmission oil seal when installing the shaft, I guess this is so the seal doesn't get damaged. My chilton's manual refers to it as "alignment tool KV38106800". Is this tool really necessary, and if so where do I get it? Also, is it really necessary to replace tie rod nut and transmission output oil seal?

Or, would I best be advised to just replace the boot and repack the outer CV joint... with the shaft still attached to the transmission & passenger shaft support bearing. Can the outer CV joint be successfully removed and boot replaced this way and if so, how? Is the outer CV joint press-fitted onto the halfshaft, or installed with a circlip, or what?

Thanks!

Jake Russell
'89 Max GXE; automatic

jkmay01

iTrader: (3)

well i have had them changed on my 89 max also, if you dont hear any clicking yet? It seems like no dirt or water have gotten into the joint to make it click. I would rercommend just repacking the joint along with replacing the boot. You can get at any local automotive store maybe for like $8 to maybe $26. As far as needing the alignment tool my mechanic never uses it u would have to make sure that the input locks into the trani and to make sure not to chip or damage the input spline. Ask either jeff or matt the moderators of the 3rd gen they will give you better advice if this doesn't help

klymkow

It's not worth the amount of work it takes to properly replace the boot vs. just replacing the whole axle. Like you said, you can buy a rebuilt for $60.

The hardest part of replacing the passenger side is removing the three bolts at the center bearing and actually removing the axle from the bearing support (this is probably only a problem with salt use areas during winters). A air hammer with chisel end might be helpful by placing between the support and the axle (worked for me).

After the center bearing is loose, the axle will pull right out. When inserting new axle, just be careful not to damage the seal. It'll slip right into the transmission with little difficulty. If you do live in northern states that use salt, you can apply some anti-seize around the center bearing before inserting into the support. This will ease the removal next time, if you are planning on keeping the car awhile.

Tim

snowman2155

I just recently repacked my inner and outer passenger side bearings and replaced boots. The only thing was, the outer cv joint doesn't come apart, so that didn't get packed very well.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

The outter joint does come apart, it's held in place with a c-clip on the shaft. A short while ago I recently replace my outter boot without any problems. If you do go the boot replacement route I would suggest getting the tool that tighten the boot clamps. Check my homepage for pics. Why did "I" go the boot replacement route,
I've done many boots in the past.
$8 for the boot kit.
To me it takes longer for axle replacement on the Max
My bearings were still good, I notice the tear a day or two after it tore.
To pull the axle on the Max it's best to drain the trans oil
When I did my boot I just knock off the outter joint leaving the shaft in the tranny

snowman2155

I took the outer joint off the shaft, but I meant that you can't take the bearings out. Believe me I tried and my manual said it didn't come apart. So, I just packed it the best I could. I have a 92 SE.

klymkow

It's not necessary to drain the auto trans fuid, very little drains out. More manual trans fuid will come out, but again it's not necessary to drain. Just put an oil drain pan under it to catch whatever does comes out and then replace when your done.

As far as boots go, it depends on whether you think you caught it in time before any damage has been done, how long the axle has been on the car so far and do you think it's worth doing the boot thing and hope the axle lasts for an amount of time to make it worthwhile - your choice.

Tim

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Personally, the difference in $$$ between the bootkit and a whole halfshaft isn't enough to even make me consider a boot kit. I had to make this decision about my 92 SE this week. The new halfshaft goes in this weekend.

tmuscedere

Its actually really easy to replace the CV boots, did both of mine in about 1 and a half hours.

1) Loosen the center hub bolt
2) Undo the lower ball joint
3) Seperate axle from hub
4) Remove old boot
5) Hit outer part of shaft with hammer (lightly), it will pop off
6) Install new boot on inner shaft
7) Install outer part of shaft
8) Repack with grease
9) Install outer boot band, then inner boot band.
10) Reassemble car

Those were all the steps in the order that I did them. Have fun.

jkmay01

iTrader: (3)

isnt $8 to $20 cheaper and a shorter time amount than pulling a half shaft? Why fix what aint broken? if you pull the half shaft check the angle of bend and the joint if not bad, then just change the boot and repack. Why spend more money? hmmm? just me

chris92

I have a '92 auto and I was able to take the passenger side joint apart with the axle still in the car, clean the bearings, repack and install a new boot. It cost me about $15 and I didn't have the hassle of the support bearing removal. You should try to find the pliers for the new boot clamps, first. Basically once the strut is out of the way, cut the old rubber boot off. There is a c-clip that sits in a groove just beyond the edge of the housing. . .remove the clip. The outer portion of the joint is now ready to come off, pull it gently out. Clean the outer joint parts (cage, bearings, knuckle, etc. There is a c-clip that holds the knuckle to the shaft. . .remove it. Now the cage and bearings can be removed from the joint, clean them well. When you're all clean, slide your new boot on the shaft, clamp it at the original position. re-assemble the joint (reverse order, pack the boot with grease first). The hardest part was mating the joint into the other half of the joint that is still in the car. This is best done by slipping the bearings in one by one as you rotate the entire assembly (you'll figure it out). After it back together, pinch the large clamp to the inner joint, then work the joint around to distribute the grease. It sounds more intimidating than it really is, but if your inner joint is good (which they almost always are) and you want to save some cash and avoid the centre bearing/new axle seal hassle, this works well. My joint is going on 30000 km and no noise yet.
Good luck.

chris92

Sorry, I was speaking about the inner boot for the passenger side. . . . .hope I didn't confuse anyone....long day.

jakeru

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies. I'm sure there are more than one ways to skin this cat, that make sense through some line of reasoning. What I ended up doing was just ordered a replacement halfshaft, available at a parts store down the street only cost me $55. The car has > 200k miles on it, and I don't know the condition of the inner joint / boot (bought the car recently, don't know enough about it's "prior" life), so at least this way I'll know both shafts and boots will be new and fresh.

My main worry is that I may somehow damage the transmission output seal when removing and installing the halfshaft; as I don't have the tool mentioned in the procedure and don't know where to get it. I guess I'll just try to be as straight and steady as I can when moving the halfshaft, and see if I can do it without mangling the seal. Thanks again for all the help guys!

chris92

I was able to install my driver's side seal without the tool by taking time and taping it in gently. I'm not sure about the passenger side, though.