Michael

iTrader: (21)

I may have a good product to take the glue off with. I went to a local mom-n-pop automotive store and asked for their best adhesive remover.

I took my cloth inserts off of my door panels a while back to put the leather ones from my Katzkin leather kit on but I havent found a product good enough to take the foam/adhesive off.

I used sticker shock and a couple of other things without any luck but I just tried this stuff I got and it came off real easy. I am going to try it on my parts car side moldings when its stops raining.

The product is 3M Woodgrain and stripe adhesive remover part no. 051135-08908 and is a 18oz. spray can. It was around $16 for the can so its kinda expensive but if it works on the molding as well as it did on the door panel then I think it will be worth it.

I will let you guys know later on tonight.

shock211

iTrader: (6)

i wanted to do the same thing with my cloth door inserts. but when i wen to take them off i noticed that the vinyl on the door panel sewn in with the inserts aswell. how did you get around this without having the vinyl peeling away or stretching it?
i'd really like some help on this...PLEASE!

Michael

iTrader: (21)

the vinyl is not sewn in with the cloth on mine. The way the door panel is made is like this. The door panel is made with the insert area raised (actually just a valey tracing the outline of the insert) and its all one piece vinyl. The cloth (with a foam backing) is just glued over this. You just have to grab the cloth is all. If you use a knife or something you may grab the vinyl but if you just grab the cloth you will be fine. I have done this on a couple of door panels (to test it before I did mine) and they were all the same.

KLoWnPR109

iTrader: (9)

Let me know how it goes, I've still been too lazy and yet busy at the same time to get to a body shop

Michael

iTrader: (21)

Ok I just went and tried it on my parts car door. It appears to work very well.

The door was still wet from the rain but i sprayed it on and it came off fairly easy with the wood paint stirrer I used. It came off better than the other products I used. You would need to use 2 coats though. Get the majority off with the first spray and go over it again with this or another product to get the rest.

Keep in mind I only did a small area since I didnt want to waste this stuff but it really eats the glue pretty good.

It didnt hurt the paint on my parts car BUT test a small area on your car first. I will not be responsible if this product messes up your paint.

Good luck to all that try this. I still say its better to just go to a shop and let them use the little rubber wheel on a drill to get it off but if you have to do it yourself I think this product works well.

shock211

iTrader: (6)

i'm going to check again...but i'm almost positive that the door panel inserts are just as i described.
thanx for the help.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Ok, this sucks. I started removing my side molding this morning about 10:30. It only took about 10 mins to take them off, but after about a hour and half of work I've only removed adhesive from about a door and a half.

I took my Max to a local body shop but they were saying that it would be about 2 - 3 hours of labor for them to do it. So I've decided to start work on it myself.

I also tried picking up some adhesive remover, I picked up some sticky shock and goo off. And both suck. My fingers hurt!!!

Michael

iTrader: (21)

well give this stuff a try because it worked much better than the sticker shock and goo gone i used before.


Just try a small section just to make sure. I didnt have a problem but the bottle says not to use on new (maybe it said fresh paint...cant remember) paint and also says to test a small area too. I figure its pretty strong stuff and that is why they give the warning.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Well, I looked at pepboy's and couldn't find any of this stuff. I know you said you went to a mom-pop automtive store and picked it up, but have you seen this product else where??

Michael

iTrader: (21)

never looked at other places. Just find a store that sells 3M stuff and you should find it. I think the small local stores usually carry the good product such as this.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, check this crap out. This is how I've had to roll for the last 2 days
Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to finish the job. Sure, didn't know it was going to take this long.

lophix

iTrader: (3)

lol i've had to roll like that for about 7months. I'm thinking about getting a heat gun to get it off...not sure how it will turn out

EdzMax

Hey guys, I think this has been talked about so many time now. Go look at my car, had it done & went to a body shop. They charge me about $20 NZ dollars to use a drill & buffing tool, came right off. That took about 20 minutes, no backing breaking effort. Was rolling within 30 minutes. I say go there. Dont believe it takes 3 hours, trust me only 20 minutes....

Remember guys, I'm from New Zealand, things are more expensive down here to get things done. I thought $20 was damn cheap.......

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Believe me, I would not mind paying $20 for it, I'm just not going to pay $125 which is what they were telling me it would cost.

Hey, wait......no fair. EdzMax, your rear seats fold down???

todamax

iTrader: (6)

yeah, WTF? I want that...

EdzMax

HEHEHEHE My seats are standard for Maxi's down here at the bottom end of the world. I can't believe that these guys would charge u $125 for 20 minutes of work. I watched the guy do it, didn't take long at all. They are just trying to rip u a new a$$hole. Well, I say if u have a drill, go to Pepboys or an autostore & get the buffing tool. That thing works wonders, can't remember what its called.

EdzMax

By the way, I do have a 12" sub now, man it makes a world of difference in the sound with the seats folded down......

Just I thought I put that in there.

If u guys want those seats, let me know so I can get a price for them...... Already have 2 guys wanting to buy the rear bumper I have...... All these are standard for my car.....

reggaeboyz

iTrader: (3)

i just picked up a 3m product called tar and adhesive remover from strauss store and it worked well on the first door thus far so yall can check it out there or just go there and tell them what you wanna remove and they will tell you what to get..am gonna see what more i can take off

todamax

iTrader: (6)

So find me a set of rear seats. I'll pay and make it worth your while.

Shoot me a PM if your willing.

lophix

iTrader: (3)

pardon me, but has anyone tried a heat gun lightly enough to warm possibly melt off the glue?

super32

iTrader: (5)

I see all of you using all types of chemicals to remove the side-molding leftover crap. Are any of you guys considering what those chemicals are doing to your paint? If the chemical is good enough to dissolve the molding adhesive, what about the clear coats?

I'm not trying to knock on ya'll, I'm just curious cause my side-moldings are beginning to fade and soon I will join you all in the "molding-less" ride.

MAXIMAS RULE and everything not Maxima just drools!!!!!

Maxima NutBag

i'd take mine off, but look at my sig. why would i want to? heh.

EdzMax

I will do that, have u checked ure pm's yet? Have to call around to find price for seat.....

Simatta

I think I'm having a serious problem with mine.

I decided today to remove my moldings because one was halfway undone and the other is bone-white from being faded.

So I take off one of them very easily and get to work on the rubbery adhesive. That took about an hour to get off, but then I notice that underneath that, there is an [adhesive?] that has been painted over - its soft and sure enough under that paint is some sort of adhesive. And underneath that is the real car paint (thankfully, I was worried that there wouldnt be paint). But I cant get this stuff off. I have to break the paint first and then try to soak it with Goo Gone and try to get it off. Its taken me an hour to remove about a centimeter of this stuff. Is this normal? Or did everyone else just have to deal with the normal gray adhesive? What about the painted over stuff.

I called about 10 body shops in the area, none of them take it off. 1 said they only do it when repainting, another said its too risky they might scratch the paint underneath, others just plain said no. I'm really getting disheartened.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

chances are your car was re painted and when they did it they took the moldings off but not the adhesive (since they were going to put the moldings back on). That is the only thing I can think...unlesss the paint from the molding stuck to the adhesive when you pulled the molding off.

Simatta

I think you are right. I got my Maxima in 1996 and the previous owner really screwed things up. And yes, I was trying to think of another way to describe it and it looks like overspray, like paint dripped down there. And when I take it off, there is adhesive underneath it, and under that is the original paint (which is the same color as the repaint). Gah, this is SO disappointing. How much do you think it would cost to have a body/paint shop scrape it all off to the metal (molding indent only) and just repaint that part? I really like the way it looks minus the moldings. But if have to, I can just keep the sidings I suppose.

edit: Typos

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Get a heat gun, an object to scrape/pry that WONT scratch paint (like an old credit card or something), some rags, and 'Sticker Shock'

Heat up the adhesive about 6 inches at a time....it'll peel right off...you can use your thumb but it's realllly hot and you'll get blisters pushing it so much. So use the old credit card or whatever (I actually use a screwdriver but dont do so if you're an uncoordinated dope) to push it away or peel it off or whatever.

Then you'll still have a little bit left on the paint. Soak it with 'Sticker Shock'....use your fingernail to scrape it. Soak it again with sticker shock....keep scraping, it seriously comes right off.

I also realize most guys pretty much have NO fingernails so I dunno what to tell you in that case. That's what you gotta do though, most anything that will take off the adhesive will still leave some 'film' left over, and well you just gotta get in there and do it.

It took me about an hour to do my driver side door the other day. It's not fun but it's not as impossible as some people seem to think

KLoWnPR109

iTrader: (9)

I gave up on mine, and I'm too lazy to go to a body shop. Therefore, I'm gonna let the elements take care of the adhesive

maxine89

edzmax, what kind of wing is that? and the plastic piece on the rear window? i like! and id like to hear about the seats too,

nice steering wheel! pimp pimp

gtr_wannabe

Flew in from Okinawa last week. Tore off moldings and removed adhesive with with turtle rubbing compound $1.98 and bumper sticker shock $3.95 within 2 hours. No harm to paint. scraped with sharpened plastic knife broken in half.Polished with zymol cleaner wax $12.00.took alot of elbow grease. no trace of adhesive left.

EdzMax

Thanks man about the wheel, the wing is from a Mitsi. Lancer & the rear window wing is for the rain. picked up at a junkyard, hard to find now.

mpdugg

I took mine off about 3 weeks ago. I went out and got the wood grain and adhesive remover like mentioned. It didn't work very well for me at all until I was able to peel the majority of the double sided foam acylic tape off. It took me about 1 1/2 worth of work to get the tape of my 2 front doors. I was lucky and the tape stayed on the molding for both of my rear doors.
To peel the foam acylic tape of the front I used a hair dryer to heat the tape and just worked it along. It worked well. The tape is a lot easier to roll off when it is hot and gummy. I wore rubber chemical gloves so it took longer to wear the skin off my fingers, but it still did a number on them. When I got the majority of the tape off I used the adhesive remover. It took 3-4 applications in some spots to get it all of.
I spread the work over a few days so I didn't get too ****ed off and set fire to my car.
It was a great feeling to get all of the molding off and get a fresh coat of wax on.
Stick with it, it looks so much better.

Good Luck,
Matthew

maxine89

where could i get that wing? if you dont mind...
i usually dont like them but that one is hot!

EdzMax

Hey, which one u talking about, the boot spoiler or the rear window? I got both from a junkyard. I like both because 1. nobody else has the window wing. 2. The boot spoiler lights up better than the standard OEM wing

torontomaxima

So has any of the adhesive started to come off since you left it? I think I'm going to do the same with mine... that or take it to a body shop; the automotive shops in my neighbourhood suck .