stalling
stalling
I have a 93 SE and it runs perfectly except for a random stall. i've been reading the threads and talking to people, and it seems that no one can tell exactly what is wrong. i'll be driving along (speed doesn't matter) at a steady speed and the engine will cut very abruptly. the only way i can get the engine to respond again is to slip in neutral and coast for a second, and only then can i get it to pull again. it only seems to do this in cold air temperatures so i'm thinking it is the mass airflow sensor. i'm open to any other suggestions.
if anyone knows some good sites to find a MAF at for cheap it would be really helpful. i'd prefer to stay away from rebuilt units. my brother told me i might be able to use MAF's from any max up to '98. i'd like to know if they are in fact compatible because this would make it a lot easier to find parts. thanks.
if anyone knows some good sites to find a MAF at for cheap it would be really helpful. i'd prefer to stay away from rebuilt units. my brother told me i might be able to use MAF's from any max up to '98. i'd like to know if they are in fact compatible because this would make it a lot easier to find parts. thanks.
Originally Posted by citadel07
I have a 93 SE and it runs perfectly except for a random stall. i've been reading the threads and talking to people, and it seems that no one can tell exactly what is wrong. i'll be driving along (speed doesn't matter) at a steady speed and the engine will cut very abruptly. the only way i can get the engine to respond again is to slip in neutral and coast for a second, and only then can i get it to pull again. it only seems to do this in cold air temperatures so i'm thinking it is the mass airflow sensor. i'm open to any other suggestions.
if anyone knows some good sites to find a MAF at for cheap it would be really helpful. i'd prefer to stay away from rebuilt units. my brother told me i might be able to use MAF's from any max up to '98. i'd like to know if they are in fact compatible because this would make it a lot easier to find parts. thanks.
if anyone knows some good sites to find a MAF at for cheap it would be really helpful. i'd prefer to stay away from rebuilt units. my brother told me i might be able to use MAF's from any max up to '98. i'd like to know if they are in fact compatible because this would make it a lot easier to find parts. thanks.
Just my .02
also....the check engine light flashes every once in a while but it never holds a code. when i start the car its supposed to go on for a couple seconds too but it never does. when its flashing it switches to a higher speed as the rpm's increase. dont know if its related to this or the fact that i have to replace my water pump.
Originally Posted by citadel07
also....the check engine light flashes every once in a while but it never holds a code. when i start the car its supposed to go on for a couple seconds too but it never does. when its flashing it switches to a higher speed as the rpm's increase. dont know if its related to this or the fact that i have to replace my water pump.
Connectors and connections can be affected by the heat / cold because of expansion / contraction rates of dissimiliar metals
MAF mishap
Originally Posted by citadel07
ok thanks i'll have to try it out....tell you if it works.
this may not be your problem, but i wanted to let others know what can happen if the MAF is faulty.
yea i'm still leaning towards replacing the MAF. i'll try the electrical connector first cause it should be pretty cheap and will want it new with another MAF anyways. courtesy parts doesn't seem to want to give me a price yet. anyone know the cheapest site with them in stock?
My car has the same stalling problem. Usually only when I stomp on the throttle. It acts like it hits the rev limiter, except at like 3-4k rpm. I have to push in the clutch and get it down to about idle to continue acceleration.
On the VE engine, it is less likely to be the MAF. I tried replacing that first, to no avail. It seems to be more of a problem for the VG guys.
I think it is somewhere along the lines of spark plugs and coil packs. I am now leaning toward the coil packs on my car, but I don't have the money to replace them with new ones.
I will tackle this problem on my car once I finish installing my cattman y-pipe. I have a nasty exhaust leak right now.
I mentioned in an earlier post that a nissan tech told me to use only NGK plugs, not Bosch. The Bosch tend to "spike" the coil packs and cause the stalling, sometimes harming coil packs, too.
My check engine light has never done what yours has, though. I also had to replace my water pump (about June or July) and it never came on then, either.
On the VE engine, it is less likely to be the MAF. I tried replacing that first, to no avail. It seems to be more of a problem for the VG guys.
I think it is somewhere along the lines of spark plugs and coil packs. I am now leaning toward the coil packs on my car, but I don't have the money to replace them with new ones.
I will tackle this problem on my car once I finish installing my cattman y-pipe. I have a nasty exhaust leak right now.
I mentioned in an earlier post that a nissan tech told me to use only NGK plugs, not Bosch. The Bosch tend to "spike" the coil packs and cause the stalling, sometimes harming coil packs, too.
My check engine light has never done what yours has, though. I also had to replace my water pump (about June or July) and it never came on then, either.
i've always used NGK plugs on my car so no worries there. if you talked to a tech then i'll probably have to wake up tomorrow morning and check my ignition coils. if they look bad then i'll look into puttin my MAF cash into that. i'll keep you updated on mine.
not sure if this is related either but it seems that when i'm runnin my stereo pretty hard it acts up more often. i have a profile 600mx amp drawing straight from the battery so maybe this is drawing to hard on my system??
not sure if this is related either but it seems that when i'm runnin my stereo pretty hard it acts up more often. i have a profile 600mx amp drawing straight from the battery so maybe this is drawing to hard on my system??
hmm. I never seem to have problems with my stereo running. I have a Phoenix Gold M44. It's not a monster, but it is pretty big. I think a lot of guys run way more stuff than that and don't have the stalling problem. I also have a spiral cell battery, but I don't think that makes a difference.
I would definitely look into the coil packs ahead of a new MAF. MAF connections maybe, but I'd wait on the sensor. If anything pick up a used one. There are tons of guys parting their cars on the for sale board and GXE/SE MAF sensors are the same.
I would definitely look into the coil packs ahead of a new MAF. MAF connections maybe, but I'd wait on the sensor. If anything pick up a used one. There are tons of guys parting their cars on the for sale board and GXE/SE MAF sensors are the same.
Originally Posted by citadel07
i've always used NGK plugs on my car so no worries there. if you talked to a tech then i'll probably have to wake up tomorrow morning and check my ignition coils. if they look bad then i'll look into puttin my MAF cash into that. i'll keep you updated on mine.
not sure if this is related either but it seems that when i'm runnin my stereo pretty hard it acts up more often. i have a profile 600mx amp drawing straight from the battery so maybe this is drawing to hard on my system??
not sure if this is related either but it seems that when i'm runnin my stereo pretty hard it acts up more often. i have a profile 600mx amp drawing straight from the battery so maybe this is drawing to hard on my system??
Low voltage can cause all sorts of problems especially on C.O.P. cars such as ours.
Your amp overdraws your alternator on bass notes so has to suck from the battery which drops tour cars overall voltage to less than the optimal 13.8.
Get a Cap and watch your voltmeter
well i checked my ignition coils tonight. two of the 6 are cracked and one of those has left a thick layer of red/orange rust covering the entire housing cylinder for as well as the NGK. goin to go pick up 2 new coils and sparker tomorrow and get them in there. i'll post up after and tell you how it reacts to a functional ignition system......
ok i replaced my front bank coils for $100. i overpaid but i dealt with a lot of morons today tryin to get these damn things. anyways i installed them and have driven over 100 miles and it hasn't stalled yet. i'm hopin this is has fixed the issue. i'll report back if it starts actin up anymore but i strongly suggest anyone with this problem to just check your coils. it takes 5 minutes and can save you a lot of time and money.
Originally Posted by citadel07
ok i replaced my front bank coils for $100. i overpaid but i dealt with a lot of morons today tryin to get these damn things. anyways i installed them and have driven over 100 miles and it hasn't stalled yet. i'm hopin this is has fixed the issue. i'll report back if it starts actin up anymore but i strongly suggest anyone with this problem to just check your coils. it takes 5 minutes and can save you a lot of time and money.
$107.75 for the 3 coils on the left bank of the engine (B). they were $85 at the local nissan dealership and $65 from courtesy. i went out to a Nissan only wrecker and talked them down from $135. money doesnt matter though cause my baby is finally runnin good again.
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