when changing color of car..do you have to...
11-27-2003, 06:43 PM
#1
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Posts: 162
when changing color of car..do you have to...
im planning on painting car from pearl white to blue(yes i know your gona telll me not to) do i have to do anything with local dmv to report change? can i get ticketed
11-27-2003, 08:46 PM
#4
Well I dont know if you will really get a ticket for it, but I know here in washington it does ask for the color of the car. It would probably be a good thing to report. It could also be a sign of a good paint shop if they know the answer or not, just something to look out for. Of course thats not always the case, some guys that do a lot of custom jobs might not know the law while a Macco probably will.
11-27-2003, 08:55 PM
#5
call your dmv like internetautomar said but I highly doubt you will have any problems. When you renew your tag then just tell them the color change. As long as the car has all of the VINs in place and do not look like they have been tampered with then you will not have a problem.
You sure you wouldnt like a nice red or something instead of blue
?
seriously though if youre going to get it done at a shop make sure they do it right and paint under the hood, trunk, and door jams. It will cost a whole lot more but if you dont it will look funny when you open the hood, trunk ect.
Good luck,
You sure you wouldnt like a nice red or something instead of blue
?seriously though if youre going to get it done at a shop make sure they do it right and paint under the hood, trunk, and door jams. It will cost a whole lot more but if you dont it will look funny when you open the hood, trunk ect.
Good luck,
11-27-2003, 09:36 PM
#6
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Posts: 162
Originally Posted by awsm66
call your dmv like internetautomar said but I highly doubt you will have any problems. When you renew your tag then just tell them the color change. As long as the car has all of the VINs in place and do not look like they have been tampered with then you will not have a problem.
You sure you wouldnt like a nice red or something instead of blue ?
seriously though if youre going to get it done at a shop make sure they do it right and paint under the hood, trunk, and door jams. It will cost a whole lot more but if you dont it will look funny when you open the hood, trunk ect.
Good luck,
You sure you wouldnt like a nice red or something instead of blue
?seriously though if youre going to get it done at a shop make sure they do it right and paint under the hood, trunk, and door jams. It will cost a whole lot more but if you dont it will look funny when you open the hood, trunk ect.
Good luck,
11-28-2003, 10:03 AM
#8
Originally Posted by MrGone
I say copy Michael 
My car will still be different from any other with the door handles and similar (but still rare) to others with a couple of other things. Well that is if I ever finish the stupid thing.
11-28-2003, 10:07 PM
#9
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on all factory paint jobs the door molds are same color as car right? do yall think it woudl ook good to leave those white and paint car blue or it all needs to be same? Will the paint be more likley o flake off that or as long as i sand it down good it should be fine.
11-29-2003, 02:48 AM
#10
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Posts: 773
Originally Posted by awsm66
My car will still be different from any other with the door handles and similar (but still rare) to others with a couple of other things. Well that is if I ever finish the stupid thing.
11-29-2003, 09:18 AM
#11
Originally Posted by azmalu
on all factory paint jobs the door molds are same color as car right? do yall think it woudl ook good to leave those white and paint car blue or it all needs to be same? Will the paint be more likley o flake off that or as long as i sand it down good it should be fine.
That is why most people say not to change color of a car. It is going to cost you probably $500-1000 more just to paint under the hood, trunk, door jams.
It will not flake off if done right...since your taking it to a shop be sure to take it to a good one and they will make sure its done right...dont cheap out here...because if you truly want it blue its going to cost you.
Believe me its not easy to paint under the hood...and I know from experience.
If you had a black car you could get by with just doing the door jam and trunk and leave the engine bay black but it will look funny if you leave it white.
11-29-2003, 09:27 AM
#12
Originally Posted by davebond007
So, you're saying that it's not done already???
unfortunately no its not done...long story there but I have the car now and am working on it here and there. It should be done and painted by spring...I cant wait either because I have a nice new paint gun coming for base and clear.
all the major body work is done and the car is in black epoxy primer but now I have to do more priming and block sanding.
11-29-2003, 09:45 PM
#13
Your going to run into one more major problem when converting colors. When you get rock chips on your new paint (blue) you will see the old color (white) where the rock chip is. Unless the panels are sanded down to bare metal, you will have this problem. I guarntee this will happen, because all NON-FACTORY paint is softer (will chip easier) then factoty paint.
In a few years from how, you'll have white specks all over your bumper cover, hood, fender, and maybe to roof too.
In a few years from how, you'll have white specks all over your bumper cover, hood, fender, and maybe to roof too.
11-30-2003, 02:10 PM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 162
Yeah I will be getting door jams and hood done for sure. Also will have it sanded down before repainting. I know its a costly venture but I plan on keeping this car for a few years as long as it runs. So i am willing to put time and money into it so that I have it the way I want it. Undoubtedly I am having a shop paint the car but to save money Ive considered sanding it down myself. For someone who is not an experienced painter is it quite the task? or simply time consuming?
11-30-2003, 11:35 PM
#15
It depends on how many times it's been painted or been repaired. The other problem is after it's been sanded to bare metal, what do you do then? It has to be primered & sealed. If you use the incorrect type of primer, it will be incompatible with the body shops paint system.. they will have to start it all over... Unless you really know what your doing, take it to a professional. To do a color change properly, the doors need to come off (to paint the jambs), all the interior removed, all bolted-on panels must be removed. Then you have the issue of the firefall, you cannot paint the firewall completely without removing the dash & engine........
Good luck.
Good luck.
11-30-2003, 11:50 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 773
Originally Posted by awsm66
unfortunately no its not done...long story there but I have the car now and am working on it here and there. It should be done and painted by spring...I cant wait either because I have a nice new paint gun coming for base and clear.
all the major body work is done and the car is in black epoxy primer but now I have to do more priming and block sanding.
all the major body work is done and the car is in black epoxy primer but now I have to do more priming and block sanding.
Cool, can't wait to see your car. Any chance on taking a few pics of the car now to show the world what you're up to?
12-01-2003, 02:13 PM
#17
I tend to disagree with barrylaud on a couple of his comments about changing color.
I dont think it is required to go to the metal. I did and wish I hadnt. It was a big pain and hassle for little gain. Sure you might have the underneath color show when you get a chip but thats better than bare metal showing and rusting.
I also think that painting the firewall can be done correctly with the engine in. I painted my firewall and engine bay with the engine still in the car. Sure I missed a small part but will be able to get to it when I get the valve cover off to do the VTCs...besides you cant see it unless you really look for it.
I guess what I am saying is sure you need the motor out to do it if you are going to do a sure 'nuff show car but for the average daily driver just taking all the pieces off of the sides and firewall will be fine. Its still a big pain doing that though.
I also agree that the doors need to come off to do them and the jams correctly but all of the interior doesnt need to come out. Why paint under the carpet or behind the dash if that stuff is never going to be seen unless you are pulling the carpet to run wires...you will put the carpet back down anyway.
I wouldnt sand it myself unless you know what you are doing. If you want to learn its not real hard to do though and here are a couple of suggestions.
not in any particular order though...
1. do a search on the proper way to block sand
2. if you have an air compressor buy a cheap primer gun...be sure to get one that will work with your compressor. I recently almost made the mistake of buying a gun for my color and clear that was rated at a much higher scfm than my compressor was. I instead got a good low pressure HVLP (Sharpe Platinum) that would work fine with my compressor and is a real nice gun too.
For a primer gun a regular cheap siphon feed gun is fine though...but I still prefer gravity feed guns.
3. Use a good primer. Since you will not go to the metal (I dont recoment going to the metal) then a lacquer primer is probably fine. I prefer the PPG K36 primer though because it is high quality high build primer...you may want to use K38 instead though since it can be used as a flexable primer for bumpers and such. The only problem with these primers are they are expensive.
4. IF you do happen to go to the metal (past the E coat) then use a good Epoxy primer such as the DP LF series that PPG sales...it comes in a variety of colors for examply the black is DP90LF, blue is DP60LF ect.
5. Most paints will not have a problem with the typical primer but have the shop use a sealer anyway to help eleviate any problems that you might have.
6. buy an assortment of blocks. Long, short, hard, flexable ect.
7. when you buy self sticking sand paper buy it on a roll because its cheaper that way...not to mention with the different blocks you will need different size paper so its just easier to buy it on a roll and cut to fit.
Now that is if you want to do a real nice job and get the body nice and slick. If you want a "paint over inperfections in the body just to have a nice shiny paint job" then it is a lot easier to do and just requires you to sand the body down with the correct grit paper.
Just remember that the difference in a good paint job and a cheap crappy one is in the prep. work.
I dont think it is required to go to the metal. I did and wish I hadnt. It was a big pain and hassle for little gain. Sure you might have the underneath color show when you get a chip but thats better than bare metal showing and rusting.
I also think that painting the firewall can be done correctly with the engine in. I painted my firewall and engine bay with the engine still in the car. Sure I missed a small part but will be able to get to it when I get the valve cover off to do the VTCs...besides you cant see it unless you really look for it.
I guess what I am saying is sure you need the motor out to do it if you are going to do a sure 'nuff show car but for the average daily driver just taking all the pieces off of the sides and firewall will be fine. Its still a big pain doing that though.
I also agree that the doors need to come off to do them and the jams correctly but all of the interior doesnt need to come out. Why paint under the carpet or behind the dash if that stuff is never going to be seen unless you are pulling the carpet to run wires...you will put the carpet back down anyway.
I wouldnt sand it myself unless you know what you are doing. If you want to learn its not real hard to do though and here are a couple of suggestions.
not in any particular order though...
1. do a search on the proper way to block sand
2. if you have an air compressor buy a cheap primer gun...be sure to get one that will work with your compressor. I recently almost made the mistake of buying a gun for my color and clear that was rated at a much higher scfm than my compressor was. I instead got a good low pressure HVLP (Sharpe Platinum) that would work fine with my compressor and is a real nice gun too.
For a primer gun a regular cheap siphon feed gun is fine though...but I still prefer gravity feed guns.
3. Use a good primer. Since you will not go to the metal (I dont recoment going to the metal) then a lacquer primer is probably fine. I prefer the PPG K36 primer though because it is high quality high build primer...you may want to use K38 instead though since it can be used as a flexable primer for bumpers and such. The only problem with these primers are they are expensive.
4. IF you do happen to go to the metal (past the E coat) then use a good Epoxy primer such as the DP LF series that PPG sales...it comes in a variety of colors for examply the black is DP90LF, blue is DP60LF ect.
5. Most paints will not have a problem with the typical primer but have the shop use a sealer anyway to help eleviate any problems that you might have.
6. buy an assortment of blocks. Long, short, hard, flexable ect.
7. when you buy self sticking sand paper buy it on a roll because its cheaper that way...not to mention with the different blocks you will need different size paper so its just easier to buy it on a roll and cut to fit.
Now that is if you want to do a real nice job and get the body nice and slick. If you want a "paint over inperfections in the body just to have a nice shiny paint job" then it is a lot easier to do and just requires you to sand the body down with the correct grit paper.
Just remember that the difference in a good paint job and a cheap crappy one is in the prep. work.
12-01-2003, 02:18 PM
#18
Originally Posted by davebond007
Cool, can't wait to see your car. Any chance on taking a few pics of the car now to show the world what you're up to?
Dont worry I will take pics when I am finished block sanding and have it ready for paint.
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