I replaced my driver side caliper today and put new pads on both rear brakes. The sliders on the right side were locked up tho and i thought i got them free'd up. Well I guess not since th inner pad was rubbing really bad, found this out going down the high way and started to smell brakes. Pulled over and the rotor was red hot and then it caught fire which i quickly put out. Well does anyone know were i can get a new braket with new sliders?

 

...your...rotor caught fire?! hard to imagine man hehe

but best bet is to ask internetautomator. he sells parts for org members.

 

When I bought my '92 GXE in September, the front rotors were badly warped and the rear had a massive coating of rust on them and were badly pitted. Replaced all four rotors and pads and discovered that the all four rear caliper pins were seized - hence no rear braking and fronts warped from doing all the work. Took the torque member to the local auto shop and paid 1/2 hour labour for a mechanic to heat the torque members with a torch and pound at the pins till they came loose. No problem now, 'specially since I put new boots on all the pins. So before you look for new torque members, see if you can have the pins removed. This also goes to show why you should service your brakes at least once a year - lube the pins and check for damaged boots among other things.

 

I highly suggest rebuilding the calipers and replacing the pins, not just beating them out of the calipers and setting it up for failure again.

you're probably also going to need to replace the rotor, but I can't say for certain without seeing it. with it getting that hot, it's probably got some severe damage though.

 

What is up with Nissan's brake rotors. My car's rotor is the same way. It is also in the front. I will be replacing my whole brake system, rotors-pads-calipers-all the mechanical stuff. But it sucks how they get warped so easy.

 

Great idea. However, the pins are in the torque member, not actually in the caliper body, and they usually seize because moisture got in in rusted them (damaged boots), or they weren't properly lubricated, or never lubricated (damaged mechanic). Once you get the pin out and lubricated it's fine (unless it or the torque member gets damaged in the removal process). Now, if his caliper has sustained damage due to the extreme heat and subsequent fire, then yes, they may need to be replaced or rebuilt.

 

By the time you catch a rotor on fire, I'm pretty sure the seals in the caliper are going to be ruined.

pull it apart and rebuild it. the rebuild kit from nissan comes with new pin boots and the proper lubricant so that it won't happen again. I highly suggest replacing the pins too. I've seen some that have been bent due to stuff like this, aside from the rust factor.
your brakes aren't something to screw with. dime-store repairs aren't something I consider with brakes. exhaust or bodywork, maybe... but brakes, no.
you're taking someone else's life in your hands when you start working on brakes. do YOU want to be the name in the paper when you run over a 6 yr old because you couldn't stop as a school crossing?

 

Mine actually warped because the rears were not working. The front brakes were doing 100% of the braking - I'm not surprised they warped.

 

>>kinda theatrical, but another good point<<

Regardless of my tongue in cheek replies, the bottom line is, as said above - your brakes aren't something to screw with.

 

while we're on the subject on brakes, how much resistance should there be on the ebrake handle?

 

Your FSM knows.

shouldn't be much when you're first pulling up.. should be able to get about 7-8 clicks in at 45lb... or something like that. consult your hand FSM (or the FAQ pages) for accurate info.

 

The handle should go 8-11 clicks with 44lbs of pullling force. I know this doesn't actually give you a figure on resistance, but I would figure that if it only goes 3 clicks with 44 pounds of pulling force, you've got too much resistance, and if it goes 15 clicks, you've got too little resistance.

 

Listen to this guy.

+1 to you.

 

The brackets are available aftermarket.
The rears'll run you $25 ea + shipping

 

I pulled it apart today and all the rubber boots and seal's are intact and the piston moves freely. The only problem was that the pads got glazed over.

 

don't come crying to us then..... we told you what needs to be done.

 

also, when brakes catch on fire brake fluid boils causing air to enter the system!

 

Alot of damage from heat especially is not visible. to the naked eye.
Rebuild and / or replace every rubber boot or seal.
It's cheap insurance against failure

 

or you could just disconnect the brakes and add a jake brake from a tractor trailor and downshift to stop jk... fix, fix, fix