Wish I had a real heater
12-06-2003, 04:17 PM
#41
Quick question:
My max air controller (1-4 air controls for heat/cold) only operates up to 3. It shuts off at 4. Why? Another question:
I barely get any type of warm air when I turn on the heat so do you suggest me flushing out the heating core? I will Check the radiator first. If that doesn't work then to the shop we go!!
My max air controller (1-4 air controls for heat/cold) only operates up to 3. It shuts off at 4. Why? Another question:
I barely get any type of warm air when I turn on the heat so do you suggest me flushing out the heating core? I will Check the radiator first. If that doesn't work then to the shop we go!!
12-06-2003, 04:27 PM
#42
you may check the fuses for the air speed control. for the heat check to see if your cold air vent is shut, make sure you have coolant, check to see if the valve in the engine bay on the fire wall is open (it is open when the arm is fully extended to the right/passenger side). if none of those are the cause then you will need to flush your heater core.
12-06-2003, 10:11 PM
#44
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I got a great solution on my car:
remote start
group deal here
ok self plug over.
But I do love the remote start
remote start
group deal here
ok self plug over.
But I do love the remote start
12-12-2003, 06:49 PM
#46
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1
you didn't mention if you changed the coolant lately, but if you try it, make sure you jack the front way the f@$k up, take off the cap, start it and let it run about 1/2 hour, and keep topping the coolant off. you'll see all the air bubbles in the system escaping, this helped mine bigtime.
12-12-2003, 10:30 PM
#49
ahh, yeah. you're right. this is out of my fsm:
BLEEDING PROCEDURE:
1. Lift only the front end of the vehicle, so that the bottom edge of the front bumper fascia is about 990 mm (39") above the ground. Make sure that the exhaust finisher is not damaged by contact with the ground.
[Raising the front end of the vehicle lowers the heater core location below the radiator inlet opening.]
NOTE: If starting with an empty heater system (no coolant), the system should be filled with coolant with the front end already raised.
2. Make sure the engine is cool. Remove the radiator cap and add coolant as required so that the coolant level comes up to the radiator filler opening.
3. Turn the engine ON and run it at ldle.
4. Move the temperature control lever to the "full hot" position on vehicles equipped with a manually-controlled air conditioning system or 85~ Fahrenheit for an automatically-controlled air conditioning system.
5. Select "Foot" mode for vehicles equipped with manually controlled air conditioning systems. Make sure the air conditioner is OFF. Select "FOOT & ECON" mode for vehicles equipped with an automatically controlled air conditioning system.
[If the A/C compressor is left ON, the engine fan runs continuously. This keeps the engine temperature low and does not allow the thermostat to open. Also, if the A/C compressor is left OFF, the engine fan will come ON when the thermostat opens.]
6. Increase the engine speed to about 1500 RPM and hold. Decrease the engine speed if there is excess coolant spillage from the radiator inlet opening. Place a small object (e.g. a folded piece of paper) between the throttle drum stopper and the intake manifold to hold the engine speed.
7. Watch for air bubbles coming out of the radiator inlet opening to make sure the air bubbles are being purged. Add coolant as necessary to maintain a full radiator. The coolant level, as seen at the radiator inlet opening, will drop when the thermostat opens. Do not add coolant when the thermostat is opened as the radiator will overflow when the thermostat closes. When the engine fan is running it is a good indication that the thermostat is in the "open" position. This procedure must be run for at least 30 minutes or until large air bubbles (larger than 5 mm diameter) stop comming out to ensure that all air bubbles are purged from the cooling system. This usually requires the thermostat to open on two separate occasions.
8. After 30 minutes, there still may be tiny bubbles (less than 5 mm diameter) coming from the radiator filler opening. It is normal for bubbles of this size to continue, so, it is not necessary to continue the procedure until the small bubbles stop.
9. After the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the small object inserted between the throttle drum stopper and the intake manifold and return the engine to idle. Add coolant to fill the radiator and immediatelv place the cap back on the radiator.
10. Slowly lower the front of the vehicle to the ground.
11. Add coolant to the reservoir tank until the level reaches the "MAX" mark. Remove the screw which secures the coolant reservoir tank, and with the return tube attached, lift the reservoir tank above the radiator. Tilt the reservoir tank so the return tube is at the lowest point. Squeeze the return tube to purge the air trapped in the tube. When the return tube is filled with coolant, return the reservoir tank to its proper location.
12. Shut the engine OFF. The engine should be allowed to cool down. If the system is not completely filled, some coolant will be sucked back into the engine. Additionally, the procedure should be repeated at least once to ensure that all of the air has been bled out of the system.
BLEEDING PROCEDURE:
1. Lift only the front end of the vehicle, so that the bottom edge of the front bumper fascia is about 990 mm (39") above the ground. Make sure that the exhaust finisher is not damaged by contact with the ground.
[Raising the front end of the vehicle lowers the heater core location below the radiator inlet opening.]
NOTE: If starting with an empty heater system (no coolant), the system should be filled with coolant with the front end already raised.
2. Make sure the engine is cool. Remove the radiator cap and add coolant as required so that the coolant level comes up to the radiator filler opening.
3. Turn the engine ON and run it at ldle.
4. Move the temperature control lever to the "full hot" position on vehicles equipped with a manually-controlled air conditioning system or 85~ Fahrenheit for an automatically-controlled air conditioning system.
5. Select "Foot" mode for vehicles equipped with manually controlled air conditioning systems. Make sure the air conditioner is OFF. Select "FOOT & ECON" mode for vehicles equipped with an automatically controlled air conditioning system.
[If the A/C compressor is left ON, the engine fan runs continuously. This keeps the engine temperature low and does not allow the thermostat to open. Also, if the A/C compressor is left OFF, the engine fan will come ON when the thermostat opens.]
6. Increase the engine speed to about 1500 RPM and hold. Decrease the engine speed if there is excess coolant spillage from the radiator inlet opening. Place a small object (e.g. a folded piece of paper) between the throttle drum stopper and the intake manifold to hold the engine speed.
7. Watch for air bubbles coming out of the radiator inlet opening to make sure the air bubbles are being purged. Add coolant as necessary to maintain a full radiator. The coolant level, as seen at the radiator inlet opening, will drop when the thermostat opens. Do not add coolant when the thermostat is opened as the radiator will overflow when the thermostat closes. When the engine fan is running it is a good indication that the thermostat is in the "open" position. This procedure must be run for at least 30 minutes or until large air bubbles (larger than 5 mm diameter) stop comming out to ensure that all air bubbles are purged from the cooling system. This usually requires the thermostat to open on two separate occasions.
8. After 30 minutes, there still may be tiny bubbles (less than 5 mm diameter) coming from the radiator filler opening. It is normal for bubbles of this size to continue, so, it is not necessary to continue the procedure until the small bubbles stop.
9. After the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the small object inserted between the throttle drum stopper and the intake manifold and return the engine to idle. Add coolant to fill the radiator and immediatelv place the cap back on the radiator.
10. Slowly lower the front of the vehicle to the ground.
11. Add coolant to the reservoir tank until the level reaches the "MAX" mark. Remove the screw which secures the coolant reservoir tank, and with the return tube attached, lift the reservoir tank above the radiator. Tilt the reservoir tank so the return tube is at the lowest point. Squeeze the return tube to purge the air trapped in the tube. When the return tube is filled with coolant, return the reservoir tank to its proper location.
12. Shut the engine OFF. The engine should be allowed to cool down. If the system is not completely filled, some coolant will be sucked back into the engine. Additionally, the procedure should be repeated at least once to ensure that all of the air has been bled out of the system.
12-13-2003, 09:35 AM
#51
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
WTF? damn!! It's easier than that to remove the head on a Corvair than to bleed the cooling system according to that!
yeah thats why they changed the heater core design after 1991. but thats exactly how nissan recommends the bleeding be done.
12-13-2003, 10:00 AM
#52
yup... i never do it though. i just put a hose on the heater core outlet and fill it from the bottom to get any air out then i fill it from the inlet to get it full to the top. plug all of the hoses back in and fill the radiator. works pretty well for me.
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