greglille

I have been a "reader", not a "poster", until now after reading the recent posting on forum content by a few of the site's 'old timers'. If you guys are out there, PLEASE read this. I will not bombard you with follow up questions, I promise. (My fingernails are always greasy) Let's email back and forth if you want.


Patient: 1990 GXE Maxima, 125,000mi.

Scenario: Recently, car will not start if it is shut down after reaching operating temp. Runs fine otherwise.

My Diagnosis: I suspect the cyl. head temp. sensor in the fuel pressure regulator is telling ECU to flood the car, as if the eng. is cold. I smell some fuel when this no-start situation happens.

BUT... as a test over several days, I crank it up, let it reach op. temp. then shut her down.... only to find she'll crank up now...EVEN WHEN SHE'S HOT! (??) I even let it sit for 10 min to get good and hot. Still cranks...until...

THEN... Sit through a 2.5 hour client dinner (on a very mild Charlotte, NC eve) and she didn't start. Cab home, return at 8:00am next morning...FIRES UP THE FIRST TURN! (cylinders full of gas, probably)

QUESTION: What other system checks should I run (or does it still sound like pressure reg. is fried?)

QUESTION: Should I invest in a Nissan Maxima Code Reader? (is there such a thing? who's brand? where and how much?)

LAST QUESTION: Press. reg. looks damn near impossible to get to. I'm a BMW guy (sorry, laugh now). How much will a dealer install set me back? (Labor only)

greglille@aol.com

bigjay

DO not spend a dime on nissan code reader it is a waste of money. when you but this you are actually buying a toyota code reader and some hondas which is fine if you are a mechanic but this does nothing for you. the only thing it does provide is the code meaning which is not worth 30$ dollars. If you would like these i will send you them if you pull a code. koeo test(key on engine off) to get codes simpley turn on acc. (do not start), go over to passenger side on the front floor kickpanel (passengers left foot) take out the 2 screws to access the computer. next, find the **** with the flat head screw driver gap in it and mark its possition so when your done you can put it back where it was. next turn it all the way to the right ang wait 3 seconds then turn it back the other way all the way and start to count the flashes on the led(s)or on your dash board where the check engine light is. the light will flash in a noticeable pattern it will blink in sync 1...2...3... and when it pause's you have your first # examp. blink blink pause is 2, blink blink blink pause is 3. it works the same way for the next digit(55 means there is no current problem noticed).
There are a few other tests you can co like your oxygen sensor or koer (key on engine running), if you want to get into more detail you can buy the chiltons manual for 12$ fromchiltons or autozone. also please note i have a 92 se and on other models the potentiometer(computer) may be in other location inside passenger compartment(under passengerseat) when done getting codes turn the car off and retern computer **** to origional possition. If your check engine light blinks at anytime it dont hurt to just pull over and do this simple procedure, i keep that panel off of my console for easy access just makes sur no one kicks it and it will be ok. the codes you get give you a great idea of the problem if you know about cars, if not they can send you into a spin because if you have a problem and you get a code like 34 which is the detonation sensor, it doesnt mean that you need a detonation sensor it could be as simple as a new spark plug. good luck i hope my drug endusedphycobabble wasnt to confuseing

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

wow a ligit tech question!..
ok well to start off w/ the basics..before you do any trouble shoot on your car. do a complete tune up. this could be simply a clogged fuel filter. change the plugs (i recommend NGKs). replace the rotor and if the cap is worn or cracked then replace that too. go to the PCV valve and if it's old and rusty looking then just go ahead and replace that, not too much $$ and when it's bad it'll cause problems. then go ahead and change the fuel filter and air filter. good idea to change the oil if it's dirty. use a quality filter. also if u never changed the spark plug wires now is a good time to do so.
here's the fun part...if u never cleaned out the TB now would be a great time to do so. unbolt the alum elbow and go to town on that TB and plate. careful of shooting that straw in there. once that's done start it up (it's going to be a rough start) but let all that carbon go out.
now see if you set the same problems. also not a bad idea to run a tank of tectron fuel injector cleaner.

the fuel regulator is part of the fuel rail. so if you're looking for it, it should be at one end of the fuel rail.

like the other person said..don't invest in the cheap code readers since they don't work. if u want to get hardcore you can try getting the consult tool the dealers use...very $$$ there. so before you spend your hard earned money on useless parts go for a good tune up and see how your car runs. it really sounds like a semi clogged filter. do u drive your car to empty or close to it often?
i recommend using OEM parts. give courtesy a call and mention the max.org discount. good luck.

greglille

Yea this banter is cool and I appreciate you guys typing so much. I feel like I'm back on the Bimmer.org forum! Great...x-cept now We're turnin Japanese

I don't run the car close to empty very often. A tune up could not hurt. I'm just perplexed because the no-start thing only happens after it's hot and shut off (and sometimes even then I get lucky) So you think I'm barking up the wrong tree with the Cyl. head temp. sensor (in Fuel pressure reg...must buy whole thing)?

I can tell I'll be getting my electrical engineering degree soon

Greg

bigjay

also if you have egr valve, this can get stuck open or closed and will feel like a tb or injector problem, if this happens again, wack the **** out of it and see if it cranks, or do it the right way and take it off & inspect for build up( be prepaired you might need a gasket depending on valve also some are non serviceable and must be replaced and cant be cleaned.

HoJo

LOL!! Is that a technical term?

bigjay

I call it high on weed

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Careful on the gaskets, I've run into problems lately with some of them being on back order! Ex: AAC and just plain problems getting the others. I'd call first before destroying a gasket, of course courtesy may have them, I've not checked.

Nismo87SE

If you had the FSM there is a 2 page diagnostic chart that should be followed. If your CHTS was malfunctioning your ECU would store the error code. Believe it or not the FSM can save you $$ by helping find the real problem vs just buying new sensor's hoping to fix a broken one. Also if the CHTS was going bad wouldn't the car go into fail safe mode where it woudln't rev over 2400rpm? I believe a malfunction in the ECU, MAF, CHTS, fuel pump would cause this kind of condition.