Ok, another Max here that won't start... help please.
#1
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Ok, another Max here that won't start... help please.
Darn Max, just when I take care of one problem (bad starter & fuel leak) boom something else goes. Maybe its do to the cold, maybe not. Dunno. Here's my problem. My max cranks, and sounds strong/like it really wants to start but doesn't. I think fuel is not getting in to the injectors. But what do I know. A few weeks back I had a strong smell of gas in the engine and found that a hose that connected to the fuel rail was leaking. So I took the intake manfold off and tightened the screw/bracket that connects the hose and the leak stopped/smell went away. I replaced the gaskets to the intake manifold and all hoses. The car started fine and the smell went away. Once this cold weather hit our area it seems like all hell broke loose and now the car wont start. I diconnected the fuel filter and had someone crank the car and fuel pumped out so I believe the fuel pump is working. But I'm no expert. Dunno if that was the right way to test it.
<b>Any suggestion, comments, crisis?</b> I don't know if one thing mentioned has anything to do with the other but I just thought I'd mention it to give you guys an idea of the things I've been doing. Anyways the Max wont start and I'm stuck with mass transit for now. Please help. I really like my Max and don't want to give up on her.
<b>Any suggestion, comments, crisis?</b> I don't know if one thing mentioned has anything to do with the other but I just thought I'd mention it to give you guys an idea of the things I've been doing. Anyways the Max wont start and I'm stuck with mass transit for now. Please help. I really like my Max and don't want to give up on her.
#5
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Ok i checked and there is a spark. Its not to bright though, but I dunno how its supposed to look. A friend has a tool to check the injectors he just hasn't come around yet, that was next on my list thanks...
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Check for injector pulse.
I'd recommend a noid light for this job.
Start there.
Also check for spark
actually do that first it's easier
I'd recommend a noid light for this job.
Start there.
Also check for spark
actually do that first it's easier
#9
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Its been a while since I've changed the wires about 3yrs.I thought they lasted longer than that. Do you change them according to your milage? Could that be the problem? Would a thicker spark plug wire also help?
Originally Posted by internetautomar
yup, or that there is too much resistance in the wire or coil is wired backwards
#13
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Is this the tool behind the WD40 in the pic. The same tool to test subs? http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_199_full.jpg
#14
Originally Posted by e_is_chillin
Is this the tool behind the WD40 in the pic. The same tool to test subs? http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_199_full.jpg
#16
Pull wires
stick one probe on one end other probe on other
make sure meter is set to read ohms/resistance (marked with horseshoe)
make note of # on screen
Ask someone who knows what the resistance should be.
stick one probe on one end other probe on other
make sure meter is set to read ohms/resistance (marked with horseshoe)
make note of # on screen
Ask someone who knows what the resistance should be.
#17
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Excellent! Will do. Hey what wire would you suggest i get? I noticed you were selling sets.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Pull wires
stick one probe on one end other probe on other
make sure meter is set to read ohms/resistance (marked with horseshoe)
make note of # on screen
Ask someone who knows what the resistance should be.
stick one probe on one end other probe on other
make sure meter is set to read ohms/resistance (marked with horseshoe)
make note of # on screen
Ask someone who knows what the resistance should be.
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