Alternator question???
12-16-2003, 03:33 PM
#1
Alternator question???
Yeh i went to autozone and they checked out my car for free. Alternator is gone..now the real question is this? anyone got any feedback on high output alternators? anyone know where i can get one affordably in the long island new york area? possible online? thanx
12-16-2003, 04:21 PM
#2
I know that internetautomar has alternators on his website for purchasing, but I don't know if he has any high output ones. I would shoot him an email and see what he has and what he might be able to get. Also, do a search on the forum for them, I've heard them talked about before, but from what I understand/heard they won't do you any good unless your pulling over 3000 watts or so in your system. You might be better off just getting a replacement alternator and a capacitor or car audio battery.
12-16-2003, 10:22 PM
#3
www.excessiveamperage.com. $280 shipped. Puts out 200 amps and is set at 14.6 volts. But when used with a external regulator can put up to 20 volts out. Very good quality stuff from what I have heard. He uses a under drive pully on it so it cuts on at lower rpms such as idel.
12-16-2003, 10:47 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 438
Originally Posted by probmxstyle
www.excessiveamperage.com. $280 shipped. Puts out 200 amps and is set at 14.6 volts. But when used with a external regulator can put up to 20 volts out. Very good quality stuff from what I have heard. He uses a under drive pully on it so it cuts on at lower rpms such as idel.
135AMPS is maximum you would ever need unless you want to burn out your electric system ... I use a 135AMPS one in my truck to take care of 4 pairs of lights (Hella 550), winch and complete stereo system.
The best way to get a good high output alternator is to have it re-wired in a shop you trust (not every shop does it right, of course).
12-17-2003, 09:13 AM
#5
Thanx for everyones concern. cheq it. i replaced it today with my dad in the rain. i picked up a new alternator for 50 bux. Courtesy Arch Auto On hempstead Tnpk. it was worth it. damn i love my max to fix it in the rain. got a few yellings from dad but he'll cheer up. Thanx again guys.
12-17-2003, 10:29 AM
#6
Originally Posted by rrrfoma
200AMPS???!!! - what? are you going to light up a city with it???
135AMPS is maximum you would ever need unless you want to burn out your electric system ... I use a 135AMPS one in my truck to take care of 4 pairs of lights (Hella 550), winch and complete stereo system.
The best way to get a good high output alternator is to have it re-wired in a shop you trust (not every shop does it right, of course).
135AMPS is maximum you would ever need unless you want to burn out your electric system ... I use a 135AMPS one in my truck to take care of 4 pairs of lights (Hella 550), winch and complete stereo system.
The best way to get a good high output alternator is to have it re-wired in a shop you trust (not every shop does it right, of course).
Mmmm uninformed nagging posts.. my fav.
please explain how a high output alternator will "burn out your electric system" when the alternator only puts out the current asked of it at the time.
I'll agree that 200A isn't needed in most cases, but if one has a huge stereo and lights and everything else under the sun, then they might need it. Personally, I've got a 2500W system in the car (a REAL 2500W, not audiobahn crap that overrates their stuff by about 300%) with an Optima red top and a 2F cap in the trunk, and have never had a problem at all. I'm still on the factory alternator and this car has over 200k miles on it.
as for rewinding the alternator, it's pretty much not going to happen on our cars. the case is already almost completely full inside, and there's nothing out there that will fit inside the case to provide more current-- unless you pay $$$$$$ to have someone rewind it by hand- and even then, you won't get much more than another 30A or so.
12-17-2003, 02:21 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 438
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Mmmm uninformed nagging posts.. my fav.
please explain how a high output alternator will "burn out your electric system" when the alternator only puts out the current asked of it at the time.
I'll agree that 200A isn't needed in most cases, but if one has a huge stereo and lights and everything else under the sun, then they might need it. Personally, I've got a 2500W system in the car (a REAL 2500W, not audiobahn crap that overrates their stuff by about 300%) with an Optima red top and a 2F cap in the trunk, and have never had a problem at all. I'm still on the factory alternator and this car has over 200k miles on it.
as for rewinding the alternator, it's pretty much not going to happen on our cars. the case is already almost completely full inside, and there's nothing out there that will fit inside the case to provide more current-- unless you pay $$$$$$ to have someone rewind it by hand- and even then, you won't get much more than another 30A or so.
please explain how a high output alternator will "burn out your electric system" when the alternator only puts out the current asked of it at the time.
I'll agree that 200A isn't needed in most cases, but if one has a huge stereo and lights and everything else under the sun, then they might need it. Personally, I've got a 2500W system in the car (a REAL 2500W, not audiobahn crap that overrates their stuff by about 300%) with an Optima red top and a 2F cap in the trunk, and have never had a problem at all. I'm still on the factory alternator and this car has over 200k miles on it.
as for rewinding the alternator, it's pretty much not going to happen on our cars. the case is already almost completely full inside, and there's nothing out there that will fit inside the case to provide more current-- unless you pay $$$$$$ to have someone rewind it by hand- and even then, you won't get much more than another 30A or so.
2.If regulator is not designed for this AMPS it would cause the generator to put out too low or too high volts, undercharging or overcharging the battery.
3. Alternator with a smaller pulley that fit in place, using the original hardware without modification would certainly be falling short andwouldn't provide sufficient output in low RPM.
More examples? ... - please educate yourself before posting "negative" responses.
12-17-2003, 02:44 PM
#8
Originally Posted by rrrfoma
1. If using hi-output alternator, proper wiring or even design of a higher output charging system is required. Following me? "Stock" wiring system is not designed for it.
Now start turning things on. As the draw rise the output of the alternator will rise up to the max. If the extra amperage is needed for a car stereo then the installer should be wise enough to run the power for it straight from the battery, not from the factory wiring harness.
Not put two ameters inline, one in each leg. You'll see that the leg to the factory harness will have one amperage value and the leg containing the super duty, high falootin, bust a cap in your a s s, booming stereo will fluctuate all on it's own as the systems requirements change.
2.If regulator is not designed for this AMPS it would cause the generator to put out too low or too high volts, undercharging or overcharging the battery.
Since regulators are no more then a diode bridge they USUALLY fail in an open mode that most normally does not let power pass. They do not normally short.
3. Alternator with a smaller pulley that fit in place, using the original hardware without modification would certainly be falling short andwouldn't provide sufficient output in low RPM.
And since the HO alternator is basically a normal alternator with more winding on it, it puts out MORE power for a given RPM.
Given the right ratios of increased windings over stock and decreased pulley size compared to stock you could very easily wind up with a alternator that turns slower yet yields more power.
More examples? ... - please educate yourself before posting "negative" responses.
12-17-2003, 03:16 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 438
I don't have a degree in electronics and information I get here is from articles and other forums, or from my own experience.
Anyway ... from what I understood in your message ...
1. You agree that proper wiring is required. And not just for stereo ... lights ... etc ... but for alternator itself as well.
2. You agree that special attention to stator, hi-output voltage regulator, high-capacity diode board is required.
3. Performance of two CS-130D Alternators:
OE one cuts in at nearly 1250 RPM, reaches 82 amps at 3000 RPM and tops off over a 100 Amps at 5000 RPM. The modified one cuts in a little above 1600 RPM, reaches 110 Amps at 3000, 140 Amps at 400 and peaks out at 168 Amps at 6000 RPM. The test bench applies a variable load automatically to maintain the output voltage at 12.6 to calculate the various outputs vs. the RPM. Also noticeable are the error flags for the hi-output alternator. Although it functioned okay, since it didn't meet the programmed criteria of the test bench for that part number (8156), the bench failed the unit and the failure points were flagged. For instance, at 1800 RPM, the OE put out 55 Amps where the modified one produced only 18 Amps, which is, by the way, the characteristic of a shallow power curve.
So what's your point? You have agreed with everything I posted here before.
And more examples ... I forgot ... here we go:
The last two or three 13612/13639 Hitachi alternators we have seen seemed like they had caught on fire from the inside, resulting in a totally melted rectifier and regulator. A recent Nissan voluntary recall notice to replace faulty alternators has been issued. The recall mentions a faulty diode inside the alternator that can short out and even cause a fire. These alternators fit 96-99 Nissan Maxima’s and Infinity I30, are hi-output Hitachi LR1125-702 or LR110-709 units and are affected by service bulletins (more about it later) ITB02-043 and NTB02-073 that cover over 140,000 production vehicles. The exact reason for the burnout is not quite clear to me but I think rebuilders should be aware of this problem and take extreme caution in reclaiming the regulator or rectifier of such units. This is one of those cases that the old regulator/rectifier might check okay by any tester but fail in the field with catastrophic results that could ruin anyone’s day.
Anyway ... from what I understood in your message ...
1. You agree that proper wiring is required. And not just for stereo ... lights ... etc ... but for alternator itself as well.
2. You agree that special attention to stator, hi-output voltage regulator, high-capacity diode board is required.
3. Performance of two CS-130D Alternators:
OE one cuts in at nearly 1250 RPM, reaches 82 amps at 3000 RPM and tops off over a 100 Amps at 5000 RPM. The modified one cuts in a little above 1600 RPM, reaches 110 Amps at 3000, 140 Amps at 400 and peaks out at 168 Amps at 6000 RPM. The test bench applies a variable load automatically to maintain the output voltage at 12.6 to calculate the various outputs vs. the RPM. Also noticeable are the error flags for the hi-output alternator. Although it functioned okay, since it didn't meet the programmed criteria of the test bench for that part number (8156), the bench failed the unit and the failure points were flagged. For instance, at 1800 RPM, the OE put out 55 Amps where the modified one produced only 18 Amps, which is, by the way, the characteristic of a shallow power curve.
So what's your point? You have agreed with everything I posted here before.
And more examples ... I forgot ... here we go:
The last two or three 13612/13639 Hitachi alternators we have seen seemed like they had caught on fire from the inside, resulting in a totally melted rectifier and regulator. A recent Nissan voluntary recall notice to replace faulty alternators has been issued. The recall mentions a faulty diode inside the alternator that can short out and even cause a fire. These alternators fit 96-99 Nissan Maxima’s and Infinity I30, are hi-output Hitachi LR1125-702 or LR110-709 units and are affected by service bulletins (more about it later) ITB02-043 and NTB02-073 that cover over 140,000 production vehicles. The exact reason for the burnout is not quite clear to me but I think rebuilders should be aware of this problem and take extreme caution in reclaiming the regulator or rectifier of such units. This is one of those cases that the old regulator/rectifier might check okay by any tester but fail in the field with catastrophic results that could ruin anyone’s day.
12-17-2003, 04:26 PM
#10
Originally Posted by rrrfoma
I don't have a degree in electronics and information I get here is from articles and other forums, or from my own experience.
Anyway ... from what I understood in your message ...
Anyway ... from what I understood in your message ...
1. You agree that proper wiring is required. And not just for stereo ... lights ... etc ... but for alternator itself as well.
Even with a 10,000 watt stereo, the alternator will still ONLY put out it's max current.. so there's no need in upgrading the wiring unless you're a glutton for punishment.
When you install a high output alternator, all previous rules go out the window becuase you're altering the charging system. before you replaced the alternator, you were only altering the DISCHARGE end of the system, and the charging side was completely stock. no need in touching it.
As for it "burning out the system" it won't hurt the "system", but it might damage the cable running from the alternator to the battery. MIGHT. But then again, if you're installing a high output alternator, you should be smart enough to upgrade that. there was absolutely no mention of leaving it stock in the original post, so you're screaming at the guy about something that hasn't even been brought up for discussion yet.
2. You agree that special attention to stator, hi-output voltage regulator, high-capacity diode board is required.
3. Performance of two CS-130D Alternators:
OE one cuts in at nearly 1250 RPM, reaches 82 amps at 3000 RPM and tops off over a 100 Amps at 5000 RPM. The modified one cuts in a little above 1600 RPM, reaches 110 Amps at 3000, 140 Amps at 400 and peaks out at 168 Amps at 6000 RPM. The test bench applies a variable load automatically to maintain the output voltage at 12.6 to calculate the various outputs vs. the RPM. Also noticeable are the error flags for the hi-output alternator. Although it functioned okay, since it didn't meet the programmed criteria of the test bench for that part number (8156), the bench failed the unit and the failure points were flagged. For instance, at 1800 RPM, the OE put out 55 Amps where the modified one produced only 18 Amps, which is, by the way, the characteristic of a shallow power curve.
So what's your point? You have agreed with everything I posted here before.
And more examples ... I forgot ... here we go:
The last two or three 13612/13639 Hitachi alternators we have seen seemed like they had caught on fire from the inside, resulting in a totally melted rectifier and regulator. A recent Nissan voluntary recall notice to replace faulty alternators has been issued. The recall mentions a faulty diode inside the alternator that can short out and even cause a fire. These alternators fit 96-99 Nissan Maxima’s and Infinity I30, are hi-output Hitachi LR1125-702 or LR110-709 units and are affected by service bulletins (more about it later) ITB02-043 and NTB02-073 that cover over 140,000 production vehicles. The exact reason for the burnout is not quite clear to me but I think rebuilders should be aware of this problem and take extreme caution in reclaiming the regulator or rectifier of such units. This is one of those cases that the old regulator/rectifier might check okay by any tester but fail in the field with catastrophic results that could ruin anyone’s day.
OE one cuts in at nearly 1250 RPM, reaches 82 amps at 3000 RPM and tops off over a 100 Amps at 5000 RPM. The modified one cuts in a little above 1600 RPM, reaches 110 Amps at 3000, 140 Amps at 400 and peaks out at 168 Amps at 6000 RPM. The test bench applies a variable load automatically to maintain the output voltage at 12.6 to calculate the various outputs vs. the RPM. Also noticeable are the error flags for the hi-output alternator. Although it functioned okay, since it didn't meet the programmed criteria of the test bench for that part number (8156), the bench failed the unit and the failure points were flagged. For instance, at 1800 RPM, the OE put out 55 Amps where the modified one produced only 18 Amps, which is, by the way, the characteristic of a shallow power curve.
So what's your point? You have agreed with everything I posted here before.
And more examples ... I forgot ... here we go:
The last two or three 13612/13639 Hitachi alternators we have seen seemed like they had caught on fire from the inside, resulting in a totally melted rectifier and regulator. A recent Nissan voluntary recall notice to replace faulty alternators has been issued. The recall mentions a faulty diode inside the alternator that can short out and even cause a fire. These alternators fit 96-99 Nissan Maxima’s and Infinity I30, are hi-output Hitachi LR1125-702 or LR110-709 units and are affected by service bulletins (more about it later) ITB02-043 and NTB02-073 that cover over 140,000 production vehicles. The exact reason for the burnout is not quite clear to me but I think rebuilders should be aware of this problem and take extreme caution in reclaiming the regulator or rectifier of such units. This is one of those cases that the old regulator/rectifier might check okay by any tester but fail in the field with catastrophic results that could ruin anyone’s day.
Apples, Oranges, and pears.
What forum are you in? What year is the recall for? oh.. okay.. yeah, 4th gens..
Per MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE TESTING MY CAR, the alternator puts out over 70A at 12.6V at IDLE. yeah, 700rpm. screw all the crap you read up there about other companies testing parts on cars that don't even apply to the subject. That's personal testing that I performed, using NEW, calibrated Snap-On load testing equipment. not something that's been tweaked and sat on the bench for 10 years like many of those places use.
So please.. keep reading articles and spouting half the story calling 100% fact.
12-17-2003, 05:08 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 438
I'm sorry but this taking us nowhere.
Obviously both of you guys got your own opinions, which is fine till the moment when you start calling your opinion the only truth.
I don't really care ... how did you call it? ... "uninformed nagging posts"?
I'm here to help out others, give my opinion (when I can) and get help when I need it.
I'm not obsessed with Maximas like you, guys, and I don't know much about its "specifics" (and I don't post when I don't know what I'm talking about). Maxima is just my winter car.
Anyway ... why would I even care arguing with you?
Obviously both of you guys got your own opinions, which is fine till the moment when you start calling your opinion the only truth.
I don't really care ... how did you call it? ... "uninformed nagging posts"?
I'm here to help out others, give my opinion (when I can) and get help when I need it.
I'm not obsessed with Maximas like you, guys, and I don't know much about its "specifics" (and I don't post when I don't know what I'm talking about). Maxima is just my winter car.
Anyway ... why would I even care arguing with you?
12-17-2003, 05:26 PM
#12
Hmm, well I believe you're the one who started with the nonsense..
If that's your opinion, we can all do without. He asked for feedback, not flames.
truth? yeah.. you had some in there.. too bad it was all stuff you quoted from somewhere else that didn't even apply to the subject at hand.
Obsessed with Maximas? yeah.. that's me. I eat, sleep, and breathe Maximas and ways to make you .orgy people ****ed off at me.. I steal your money every chance I get too.
Why would you care arguing with us? I dunno, but you are.
200AMPS???!!! - what? are you going to light up a city with it???
135AMPS is maximum you would ever need unless you want to burn out your electric system ...
135AMPS is maximum you would ever need unless you want to burn out your electric system ...
truth? yeah.. you had some in there.. too bad it was all stuff you quoted from somewhere else that didn't even apply to the subject at hand.
Obsessed with Maximas? yeah.. that's me. I eat, sleep, and breathe Maximas and ways to make you .orgy people ****ed off at me.. I steal your money every chance I get too.
Why would you care arguing with us? I dunno, but you are.
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