Door lock problems--also Help!!!
01-05-2004, 05:30 AM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 37
Door lock problems--also Help!!!
I've tried to search the FAQ's and did not find anything concerning the problem that I'm having with my door locks. When I try to open the door locks by key, all the locks want to simultaneously unlock and then they all immediately lock again at the same time. It's been getting worse lately, so I thought I'd ask you guys what would be the solution. Thanks, Truemax
01-05-2004, 07:05 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 46
i've been having similar problems.. but then found out that the driver side front door lock **** ( in the interior ) was "sticky" somehow not fully opening but opening and somehow dropping again causing all doors to lock once more.. find a way to smooth out the **** from getting stuck and maybe that'll fix the problem?
01-06-2004, 01:41 PM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 20
I once had the exact same problem. I had replaced my window regulator, and when I put the driver's-side door back together, the clear plastic sheet that (i believe) is there to rain-proof the components was slightly obstructing the doorlockknob. Everytime I unlocked the doors, the auto-doorlocks just wanted to lock them up again.
I'd suggest checking the doorlockknobs on both of your front doors. Easiest way is probably to pull the fuse on your auto-doorlock system, then try locking and unlocking each door using the ****. Hopefully you'll find the one that's too stiff. Then pull that door apart and try to fix whatever is obstructing it
If you're like me and have never taken a door apart, you can follow the first 6 steps from the Window Regulator tutorial at:
http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/...regulator.html
-Rich
I'd suggest checking the doorlockknobs on both of your front doors. Easiest way is probably to pull the fuse on your auto-doorlock system, then try locking and unlocking each door using the ****. Hopefully you'll find the one that's too stiff. Then pull that door apart and try to fix whatever is obstructing it
If you're like me and have never taken a door apart, you can follow the first 6 steps from the Window Regulator tutorial at:
http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/...regulator.html
-Rich
07-06-2004, 11:30 AM
#5
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 5
Re: 3rd gen Maxima power door lock problem
Originally Posted by truemax
I've tried to search the FAQ's and did not find anything concerning the problem that I'm having with my door locks. When I try to open the door locks by key, all the locks want to simultaneously unlock and then they all immediately lock again at the same time. It's been getting worse lately, so I thought I'd ask you guys what would be the solution. Thanks, Truemax
Dear Truemax,
I've been suffering for about the last 4 years with a problem just like yours -- the doors locked themselves right after being unlocked, or even from the impact of an unlocked driver's door closing. It even locked once spontaneously when my wife closed the door to walk over to the mailbox across the street, locking in my 2-year-old and prompting a panic scene.
Now, I'm excited that I can offer some useful advice of the kind I was never able to find for myself, thanks to my local garage. I'm not a mechanic, so this is not going to be the greatest explanation you ever saw, but I'll do the best I can.
The first suspect in the problem, from what I read here, was the "power door lock module" in the dash. In my case, I replaced it with no results. Next was what the mechanic tried, on another mechanic's advice: the "master switch" in the driver's door (buried, of course). As the name implies, the one in the driver's door affects all the doors. It has a magnet in it.
This is where I get fuzzy. Suffice it to say that when you turn the key in the lock, or raise and lower the lock button, something changes position relative to the magnet. According to the mechanic, it's a (needlessly complicated) switch. Ideally, when this switch actuates, it sends a signal to a relay in the lower dash, which clicks audibly as your locks work. (Is this relay the famous "module"? I have no idea.)
Anyway, as my car aged, the cylinder/magnet assembly evidently got loose and sloppy. The result was that the switch kept getting fooled, because the magnet wasn't in the proper position relative to what it was supposed to be sensing. This meant that when I locked the doors, the dash-mounted relay never got the signal. So when I went to unlock it, the relay kept locking the doors, because the door mechanism's previous failure left the relay guessing that the door now needed to be locked -- because.
Bottom line: Replacement of the cylinder and magnet switch assembly in the driver's door, costing hundreds for the labor (including a farm-out of the cylinder parts).
The great news: now it's mostly fixed. I can still induce it to lock itself by repeatedly drumming the lock **** up and down really fast, but now -- in a major change -- I have to be trying. Yay!
P.S. Pardon the long subject line -- I did it purposely so Googlers like me could find this easier from the keywords. I sincerely hope this helps somebody.
07-21-2004, 07:28 PM
#6
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1
Folks,
I had this problem a few years ago. In fact, my doors would auto lock just because I closed the driver's door (embarassingly led to locking my keys in my car at a gas pump).
Anyway, I took the door apart, greased, lubed all that stuff which didn't really help. Oddly enough, my battery died about 2-3 weeks later and once I replaced it, I have never had the door lock problems again. It seems to fit with the mechanic below attempting to solve "power" issues.
Might just wanna check the battery output....
Brian
'91 SE, Black on Black, 177K miles, still purrin'
I had this problem a few years ago. In fact, my doors would auto lock just because I closed the driver's door (embarassingly led to locking my keys in my car at a gas pump).
Anyway, I took the door apart, greased, lubed all that stuff which didn't really help. Oddly enough, my battery died about 2-3 weeks later and once I replaced it, I have never had the door lock problems again. It seems to fit with the mechanic below attempting to solve "power" issues.
Might just wanna check the battery output....
Brian
'91 SE, Black on Black, 177K miles, still purrin'
Originally Posted by TonyCD
Dear Truemax,
I've been suffering for about the last 4 years with a problem just like yours -- the doors locked themselves right after being unlocked, or even from the impact of an unlocked driver's door closing. It even locked once spontaneously when my wife closed the door to walk over to the mailbox across the street, locking in my 2-year-old and prompting a panic scene.
Now, I'm excited that I can offer some useful advice of the kind I was never able to find for myself, thanks to my local garage. I'm not a mechanic, so this is not going to be the greatest explanation you ever saw, but I'll do the best I can.
The first suspect in the problem, from what I read here, was the "power door lock module" in the dash. In my case, I replaced it with no results. Next was what the mechanic tried, on another mechanic's advice: the "master switch" in the driver's door (buried, of course). As the name implies, the one in the driver's door affects all the doors. It has a magnet in it.
This is where I get fuzzy. Suffice it to say that when you turn the key in the lock, or raise and lower the lock button, something changes position relative to the magnet. According to the mechanic, it's a (needlessly complicated) switch. Ideally, when this switch actuates, it sends a signal to a relay in the lower dash, which clicks audibly as your locks work. (Is this relay the famous "module"? I have no idea.)
Anyway, as my car aged, the cylinder/magnet assembly evidently got loose and sloppy. The result was that the switch kept getting fooled, because the magnet wasn't in the proper position relative to what it was supposed to be sensing. This meant that when I locked the doors, the dash-mounted relay never got the signal. So when I went to unlock it, the relay kept locking the doors, because the door mechanism's previous failure left the relay guessing that the door now needed to be locked -- because.
Bottom line: Replacement of the cylinder and magnet switch assembly in the driver's door, costing hundreds for the labor (including a farm-out of the cylinder parts).
The great news: now it's mostly fixed. I can still induce it to lock itself by repeatedly drumming the lock **** up and down really fast, but now -- in a major change -- I have to be trying. Yay!
P.S. Pardon the long subject line -- I did it purposely so Googlers like me could find this easier from the keywords. I sincerely hope this helps somebody.
I've been suffering for about the last 4 years with a problem just like yours -- the doors locked themselves right after being unlocked, or even from the impact of an unlocked driver's door closing. It even locked once spontaneously when my wife closed the door to walk over to the mailbox across the street, locking in my 2-year-old and prompting a panic scene.
Now, I'm excited that I can offer some useful advice of the kind I was never able to find for myself, thanks to my local garage. I'm not a mechanic, so this is not going to be the greatest explanation you ever saw, but I'll do the best I can.
The first suspect in the problem, from what I read here, was the "power door lock module" in the dash. In my case, I replaced it with no results. Next was what the mechanic tried, on another mechanic's advice: the "master switch" in the driver's door (buried, of course). As the name implies, the one in the driver's door affects all the doors. It has a magnet in it.
This is where I get fuzzy. Suffice it to say that when you turn the key in the lock, or raise and lower the lock button, something changes position relative to the magnet. According to the mechanic, it's a (needlessly complicated) switch. Ideally, when this switch actuates, it sends a signal to a relay in the lower dash, which clicks audibly as your locks work. (Is this relay the famous "module"? I have no idea.)
Anyway, as my car aged, the cylinder/magnet assembly evidently got loose and sloppy. The result was that the switch kept getting fooled, because the magnet wasn't in the proper position relative to what it was supposed to be sensing. This meant that when I locked the doors, the dash-mounted relay never got the signal. So when I went to unlock it, the relay kept locking the doors, because the door mechanism's previous failure left the relay guessing that the door now needed to be locked -- because.
Bottom line: Replacement of the cylinder and magnet switch assembly in the driver's door, costing hundreds for the labor (including a farm-out of the cylinder parts).
The great news: now it's mostly fixed. I can still induce it to lock itself by repeatedly drumming the lock **** up and down really fast, but now -- in a major change -- I have to be trying. Yay!
P.S. Pardon the long subject line -- I did it purposely so Googlers like me could find this easier from the keywords. I sincerely hope this helps somebody.
07-23-2004, 11:29 PM
#8
one problems with stuck door lock i've experienced with is due to human error. they're my silly goose friends every time I drove them around, they always like to get their griddy hands on those locks. i think forcing it will damage it cuz my passenger door is giving all kinds of grieves. so, I would strongly suggest you guys using the electronic power lock features of car/remote instead of pushing and pulling the lock. anyway, i haven't messed around it much to figure out a solution but I think you could just change the magnet. is there is like a power connector that I could just unplug from the power lock to disable power lock and enable manual lock?
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