For those of you who have had replace the studs because like me you had broken studs i have a quick question.
Did you use the studs that nissan sells? Or did source an aftermarket place that carries studs that are less expensive or of a better quality?
I'll be doing this repair sometime in the next 3-4 weeks and was just curious.

TIA
shock211

 

Another quick question...
Have any of you had to get the exhaust manifold machined because it became warped from putting off the stud repair? Also, has anyone ended up with cracked shorty headers because of the leak.
I don't know if I'll have these problems or not. but i've heard of this occuring so i was just curious to know if it's a common issue related to this repair.

thanx again.

 

i replaced all the studs on my jdm motor when i got it before any were broken. i got all the studs from kaleb at curtiosy nissan

and i have heard of people having to have there maniphold machined

 

lol on my 91, the rear exhaust manifold cracked. In a related issue, I have a brand new rear exhaust manifold for sale ... Just $90 plus shipping. That way you know you have a brand new one

http://members.***.net/94se/Shopping%20Cart.htm

 

I've seen all of the above happen.

If the studs break and you keep driving on it, you're gonig to warp the manifold. it'll cost you about $50 to have machined down.

I don't know how they get cracked (probably more from spraying water on a hot engine than anything), but then you get to replace.

As for the studs, Nissan has stopped selling the crappy ones. If you call them up and order new ones, they will be the stronger ones used on the VG-T.
Call Kaleb at Courtesy and he'll fix you up.
1-800-527-1909

 

thanks guys,

i have a parts car at my disposal. so if i end up needing any parts i'll check the parts car before hand.
lophix,
if i need anything else, i'll let ya know.

i'm gonna call kaleb at courtesy to get the part#'s. he'll know what i need because the idiots at the dealerships in my area are freakin' clueless!

 

Pardon me if I sound ignorant about this subject, but I am learning more about Maxima's every day. I have a 93 and 96 GXE's that my teenage boys drive. I was changing the coolant on the 93 this weekend and looking for the rear block drain plug. I noticed that the lower exhaust stud (I am presuming this thread is striclty exhaust) on the drivers side is missing. I can also see a threaded hole in the head that looks to be about 45 degrees above the hole in the manifold. When I looked from above, I can see the upper stud is still in place. Is it likely that the stud is broken off? Must the head be removed to repair? Why can I see another threaded and unused hole? Is that a problem? Is something supposed to be in there? The threads in the hole look shiny and clean.

At first I was in a panic that the flange on the manifold was broken and had rotated. I was relieved to find the upper stud still in place.

 

you're correct in that the stud is broken. it's a bear to fix, but it's doable with the head on the car. the other stud hole is just there because it's there. These heads were used on a couple different cars with different manifold configurations, so I'm going to assume that's what the hole is for. As for the Maxima, it only uses the two holes across from each other.

I'd tell you to search on the subject and you'll find lots of info, but unfortunately the search is down.

In order to get to the ones in the rear, you're going to need a small drill (I have an air powered one that fits great)...
pull the Y pipe off (the exhaust pipe under the engine), then you'll have to remove the rear engine mount and bracket... to do that, you have to support the engine and remove the entire engine crossmember (with front and rear mounts on it)..

now you can get to the rear exhaust manifold. pull the manifold off, and you can stick the small drill up there and drill out the stud.. You will probably still have to lower the rear of the engine a couple inches to get to it. (thus support the engine with two jacks... one on the back of the oil pan and one on the front of the tranny or something..)

you will need to use a cobalt or other high alloy drill bit to do it. regular bits will get about 1/8" into that stud then melt.. a cobalt bit will take about 30 sec to drill through..

That's about it really. the major work is getting TO the studs.. plan a full day to do it. I can replace front and rear studs in about 6 hours, but I've had some practice at it.

 

Matt has pretty much nailed it. The only thing I'll add is to use left twist drill bits instead of the normal right twist. This means using the drill in reverse with bit designed for it. Using a left twist drill bit actually loosens the studs as you drill into it. In many cases you'll find that after drilling with a left twist bit the broken stud will come out as your drilling the pilot or the main hole. This helps eliminate the need to use an easy-out. It also means you don't take the chance of blowing through the threads in the head while drilling. The less you use easy outs the better off you are.

If you are an inexperienced backyard mechanic or have only basic tools then plan for an entire weeknd on your back under the car. Matt's time schedule based on his experience. It took me about 2 - 6 hour days to do the rear manifold. I replaced ALL of my studs & hardware though. I had two broken in the rear, studs are cheap compared to the time it takes to do them. If one is broken, can the others be far behind?

BTW, I used a 1/2" reversible drill with a $20 90 degree adapter I got from Harbor Freight to drill the studs. There was plenty of room in the rear to use this combo once everything was removed. There was just enough room in the front to use it (yes I had to do BOTH manifolds!).

Total cost was about $60 for studs, washers, nuts and both manifold gaskets. And of course the 90 degree adapter. I was quoted nearly $800 by two different garages to do the same job.

 

Thanks Matt and shoult for the feedback. I consider myself slightly above the backyard mechanic, but I am not sure I am ready to drill into my aluminum heads from an akward position. Never tried that before. I have never had an exhaust stud break off like this in any car. Sounds like a common occurence in Maxima's. I need to survey the rest of the studs in both cars now. I will probably remove heads and do the water pump, timing belt etc. The stainless steel braid in the exhaust looks about shot too.

 

Drilling into the heads isn't as bad as it sounds. just take your time and go slow on it and you'll be fine.
I also suggest taking one of your other used studs (after removing it from the head), cut it to about 1/2" long and drill a hole through the center of it. you can help use that to center the bit in the hole on the side of the head.

So far I've drilled out probably 15 studs in various Maxima heads, and only once did I ever hit aluminum. I still got the old stud out and replaced it without having any problems other than a tiny bit of aluminum gone. the stud still held proper torque, so all is good (and it's on my car, so I don't really care too much! )

 

matt,
why don't you come on up to toronto and help with repairing my manifold studs?
there's a case of real canadian beer in it for ya...not the molson & labatt crap that you guys get south of the border.

 

shock, i have for sale all the parts for the front (left) manifold. are you interested, or have you ordered from courtesy nissan already?

i don't need them anymore since my GXE is in a junk yard somewhere.

 

They'll fit either manifold, FYI.. the gasket is different, but there's a marked spot on it where you just cut it and flip the end over and it fits fine.

And no way in Hell am I going to Canada until about June!
I'm beginning to like this Houston weather.. 95 at the worst of the summer, and it MIGHT freeze one or two days in the winter..
so far, I think I've seen frost once around thanksgiving, but that's the only thing resembling ice I've seen. I can dig this..

 

matt,
where in canada are you going to visit this summer?

ghostmax,
i should have al the parts i need readily available. thanx though.

i still have to get the vg30et studs/nuts and gaskets. i'll get them locally seeing as i'm surrounded by nissan dealerships. although i haven't found one that has a competant person working the parts counter yet.