92 Maxima cold weather stalling
02-25-2004, 06:09 AM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1
92 Maxima cold weather stalling
Hi-
I've read a few other posts similar, and tried to find others within this group, but still need help.
I have a 92 SE auto with 225K miles and it has always, always run great.
Up until Oct of 2003 no running problems. But when the weather began to get cold (less than 50 degrees in the morning), I would start the car just fine, and after driving for about 10 minutes, the car would sputter, tach would drop then go back up and it would sputter some more. I havent driven it all this winter but have started it occasionally and it turns over nice as if there is no problem. It didn't seem to happen when the outside temp stayed warm.
Took it to a local garage and they changed the plugs and still the same problem. Mechanic then replaced MAF, twice, each time with re-built/used MAFs and the same thing happens. With both MAFs, he drove around with his "computer" attached and each time the tach would drop, the computer would not gather info, as he stated it seemed electrical. He said he checked temp sensor and that seemed ok.
I have seen posts about lubing/cleaning wiring, checking O2 sensor, but not sure if that ever fixed this type of problem.
I called Nissan Service and they were honest about it saying it would probably be a ton of labor costs to try to simulate the problem.
I would like to keep my Maxima, but do not want to spend addtl money if there is more to it than just replacing a part. Its my third car and I am hoping to give it to my son in a couple of months when he gets his license. But now, its sitting in a crowded 2 car driveway with 3 cars in it.
Any ideas or suggestions? thank you in advance-jack
I've read a few other posts similar, and tried to find others within this group, but still need help.
I have a 92 SE auto with 225K miles and it has always, always run great.
Up until Oct of 2003 no running problems. But when the weather began to get cold (less than 50 degrees in the morning), I would start the car just fine, and after driving for about 10 minutes, the car would sputter, tach would drop then go back up and it would sputter some more. I havent driven it all this winter but have started it occasionally and it turns over nice as if there is no problem. It didn't seem to happen when the outside temp stayed warm.
Took it to a local garage and they changed the plugs and still the same problem. Mechanic then replaced MAF, twice, each time with re-built/used MAFs and the same thing happens. With both MAFs, he drove around with his "computer" attached and each time the tach would drop, the computer would not gather info, as he stated it seemed electrical. He said he checked temp sensor and that seemed ok.
I have seen posts about lubing/cleaning wiring, checking O2 sensor, but not sure if that ever fixed this type of problem.
I called Nissan Service and they were honest about it saying it would probably be a ton of labor costs to try to simulate the problem.
I would like to keep my Maxima, but do not want to spend addtl money if there is more to it than just replacing a part. Its my third car and I am hoping to give it to my son in a couple of months when he gets his license. But now, its sitting in a crowded 2 car driveway with 3 cars in it.
Any ideas or suggestions? thank you in advance-jack
02-25-2004, 06:41 AM
#2
I would check your coil packs for cracks, especially the front three. If they are original, there are very likely cracked.
After that, if it's electrical, it could be any number or different sensors or corroded plugs.
After that, if it's electrical, it could be any number or different sensors or corroded plugs.
02-25-2004, 10:12 AM
#3
Hmm 10 min. About the time the ecu goes into closed loop. So the car is at operating temp by then? If so, how old is your 02 sensor? Once the car is warm enough, the ecu starts using the 02 to adjust a/f ratios.
Odd the car runs fine when the weather is warm though. Cold and wet weather?
Odd the car runs fine when the weather is warm though. Cold and wet weather?
02-25-2004, 10:33 AM
#5
He said the mechanic checked it. Hope he checked the red one. Black one is just for the guage. Also check all grounds.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
jeff you fotgot the Coolant tenp sensor. it is another part of the A/F equation,
02-25-2004, 10:45 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 150
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Hmm 10 min. About the time the ecu goes into closed loop. So the car is at operating temp by then? If so, how old is your 02 sensor? Once the car is warm enough, the ecu starts using the 02 to adjust a/f ratios.
Odd the car runs fine when the weather is warm though. Cold and wet weather?
Odd the car runs fine when the weather is warm though. Cold and wet weather?
Uhhhhh, I dont know if the Maxima is a compleatly different story than any other vehicle, but closed loop is required to go into action after about 10-30 seconds MAX for federal emmisions regulations. Reason the engine doesnt go into closed loop right away after startup is that the O2 sensor needs to heat up before it can get accurate readings. Untill that time, the collant temp sensor and the MAF is pretty much the only things telling the computer what to do for fuel. After 10 seconds the exhaust gas should have heated the sensor up enough to work accuratly and it is then added to the equation as a correction factoring input.
Oh, and BTW, I think I saw someone else on a nother thread describe the O2 sensor as some kind of heat sensor, it is NOT a heat sensor, it is a device that uses a "dielectric" that produces 0-1 volt depending on the differential between the oxygen content within the pipe and fresh air outside the pipe. Works a bit like a battery that produces up to 1 volt, 0.7 volts is the equivlent to about 14.7:1 Air:Fuel ratio which is optimal. This is only accurate once the sensor is up to proper temperature, nothing to do with engine coolant temp.
Anyone need any other info on how electronic fuel injection works, feal free to ask ;-)
02-25-2004, 10:46 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 150
Originally Posted by jackfor
Hi-
I've read a few other posts similar, and tried to find others within this group, but still need help.
I have a 92 SE auto with 225K miles and it has always, always run great.
Up until Oct of 2003 no running problems. But when the weather began to get cold (less than 50 degrees in the morning), I would start the car just fine, and after driving for about 10 minutes, the car would sputter, tach would drop then go back up and it would sputter some more. I havent driven it all this winter but have started it occasionally and it turns over nice as if there is no problem. It didn't seem to happen when the outside temp stayed warm.
Took it to a local garage and they changed the plugs and still the same problem. Mechanic then replaced MAF, twice, each time with re-built/used MAFs and the same thing happens. With both MAFs, he drove around with his "computer" attached and each time the tach would drop, the computer would not gather info, as he stated it seemed electrical. He said he checked temp sensor and that seemed ok.
I have seen posts about lubing/cleaning wiring, checking O2 sensor, but not sure if that ever fixed this type of problem.
I called Nissan Service and they were honest about it saying it would probably be a ton of labor costs to try to simulate the problem.
I would like to keep my Maxima, but do not want to spend addtl money if there is more to it than just replacing a part. Its my third car and I am hoping to give it to my son in a couple of months when he gets his license. But now, its sitting in a crowded 2 car driveway with 3 cars in it.
Any ideas or suggestions? thank you in advance-jack
I've read a few other posts similar, and tried to find others within this group, but still need help.
I have a 92 SE auto with 225K miles and it has always, always run great.
Up until Oct of 2003 no running problems. But when the weather began to get cold (less than 50 degrees in the morning), I would start the car just fine, and after driving for about 10 minutes, the car would sputter, tach would drop then go back up and it would sputter some more. I havent driven it all this winter but have started it occasionally and it turns over nice as if there is no problem. It didn't seem to happen when the outside temp stayed warm.
Took it to a local garage and they changed the plugs and still the same problem. Mechanic then replaced MAF, twice, each time with re-built/used MAFs and the same thing happens. With both MAFs, he drove around with his "computer" attached and each time the tach would drop, the computer would not gather info, as he stated it seemed electrical. He said he checked temp sensor and that seemed ok.
I have seen posts about lubing/cleaning wiring, checking O2 sensor, but not sure if that ever fixed this type of problem.
I called Nissan Service and they were honest about it saying it would probably be a ton of labor costs to try to simulate the problem.
I would like to keep my Maxima, but do not want to spend addtl money if there is more to it than just replacing a part. Its my third car and I am hoping to give it to my son in a couple of months when he gets his license. But now, its sitting in a crowded 2 car driveway with 3 cars in it.
Any ideas or suggestions? thank you in advance-jack
02-25-2004, 11:03 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Damonb
Uhhhhh, I dont know if the Maxima is a compleatly different story than any other vehicle, but closed loop is required to go into action after about 10-30 seconds MAX for federal emmisions regulations. Reason the engine doesnt go into closed loop right away after startup is that the O2 sensor needs to heat up before it can get accurate readings. Untill that time, the collant temp sensor and the MAF is pretty much the only things telling the computer what to do for fuel. After 10 seconds the exhaust gas should have heated the sensor up enough to work accuratly and it is then added to the equation as a correction factoring input.
Oh, and BTW, I think I saw someone else on a nother thread describe the O2 sensor as some kind of heat sensor, it is NOT a heat sensor, it is a device that uses a "dielectric" that produces 0-1 volt depending on the differential between the oxygen content within the pipe and fresh air outside the pipe. Works a bit like a battery that produces up to 1 volt, 0.7 volts is the equivlent to about 14.7:1 Air:Fuel ratio which is optimal. This is only accurate once the sensor is up to proper temperature, nothing to do with engine coolant temp.
Anyone need any other info on how electronic fuel injection works, feal free to ask ;-)
Oh, and BTW, I think I saw someone else on a nother thread describe the O2 sensor as some kind of heat sensor, it is NOT a heat sensor, it is a device that uses a "dielectric" that produces 0-1 volt depending on the differential between the oxygen content within the pipe and fresh air outside the pipe. Works a bit like a battery that produces up to 1 volt, 0.7 volts is the equivlent to about 14.7:1 Air:Fuel ratio which is optimal. This is only accurate once the sensor is up to proper temperature, nothing to do with engine coolant temp.
Anyone need any other info on how electronic fuel injection works, feal free to ask ;-)
the heated is to get the sensor up to temp right away. and reduce emissions
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
13
03-20-2024 11:22 AM
kirkhilles
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
08-08-2015 10:53 AM