Here we go: JDM VE Swap getting underway.
#41
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Some inspiration Keelan.
http://s92599732.onlinehome.us/images/Jeffengine/
http://s92599732.onlinehome.us/images/Jeffengine/
#42
Front is easy. Just wrap the chain around the exhaust manfold. Plenty strong. Rear is harder due to space. You know where the intake manifold bracket is (ie.. firewall side, just behind the intake manifold?) It's a zinc coated bracket. Two bolts on the manifold and two bolts on the head. I used the upper two bolts to attach a chain. I dug around for some longer ones that I had around to accomodate the thickness of the chain links(in order to insure enough thread engagement). It would seem that this wouldn't be strong enough but I've done it twice with no ill effects(ie.. bending bracket/manifold/breaking/bending bolts etc..) Make sure to use both bolts. I threaded the bolt through the link (not just wrapped the chain around the link) and tightened it to about 25ft/lbs (est)
Originally Posted by Spipedong90
What are you guys using to jack that thing up with? Exhaust Manifolds?
#43
Back when I pulled my old 100k engine and put it in the 92se auto a friend bought, I chained it up the exact same way Jeff did his. Same thing for pulling the 165k engine and tranny out of that 92. The only difference is when I did the whole swap thing we used a Kabota (tractor) lol.
#44
Originally Posted by rosamax
Oh goody, maybe someone will finally complete one of these projects. Let us know when it is finished, heck, let us know if you ever start this project because no one that I know of has ever even started it. It would be awesome to see a clean finished product but if you read previous posts, you will see that its been talked about alot and I don't recall ever seeing it finished. I think you'de be better off buying a Z.
i've been thinkin' about this JDM motor swap but has anyone done a JDM VG motor and JDM tranny??? just a question though.
#47
Don't drop the engine on your foot? List what you are gonna replace and I'll check it. BTW. What type of clutch are you getting?
add: For sure, I'd do the following:
1) Tranny output shaft seals.
2) New upper/lower radiator hoses
3) New oil and filter. Consider just using a cheap filter and castrol 5W30. Run it for a few days, then add a 1/4-1/2 pint of Seafoam. Drive it for about 150 miles, then change the oil again with a quality filter(Nissan/Yota) and the oil of your choice. Castrol again is decent for dino stuff.
4) Might as well put a new pcv valve in while the engine is out. Pain to do while it's in.
Consider:
1) New rear main seal if it's leaking.
2) New front main seal but wait until you get the upgraded udp.
3) Make sure the EGR valve moves okay. Replace if necessary
4) Check the ks harness. Consider replacing. I didn't do on mine as the engine ran like a champ before and does after the swap so I think mine is okay.
add: For sure, I'd do the following:
1) Tranny output shaft seals.
2) New upper/lower radiator hoses
3) New oil and filter. Consider just using a cheap filter and castrol 5W30. Run it for a few days, then add a 1/4-1/2 pint of Seafoam. Drive it for about 150 miles, then change the oil again with a quality filter(Nissan/Yota) and the oil of your choice. Castrol again is decent for dino stuff.
4) Might as well put a new pcv valve in while the engine is out. Pain to do while it's in.
Consider:
1) New rear main seal if it's leaking.
2) New front main seal but wait until you get the upgraded udp.
3) Make sure the EGR valve moves okay. Replace if necessary
4) Check the ks harness. Consider replacing. I didn't do on mine as the engine ran like a champ before and does after the swap so I think mine is okay.
Originally Posted by Spipedong90
Well wish me luck, assuming my F** clutch shows up today I'm pulling it all tonight.
Any last thoughts, opinions, etc?
Any last thoughts, opinions, etc?
#48
The clutch is an exedy Stage one; same as shawn's.
Replace:
Exhaust Studs
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Clutch and Throwout Bearing
Valve Cover Gaskets
Intake Plenum Gaskets
Front and Rear Main Seals
Crank Pulley
Flywheel
PCV Valve
Transfer from my car:
Intake Manifold with VI
Water Pump (It's almost brand new)
Wiring Harness (Duh)
Throttle Body
Misc:
Flush Coolant
Synthetic Oil
edit: oh yeah, and replacing the breather tube too.
Replace:
Exhaust Studs
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Clutch and Throwout Bearing
Valve Cover Gaskets
Intake Plenum Gaskets
Front and Rear Main Seals
Crank Pulley
Flywheel
PCV Valve
Transfer from my car:
Intake Manifold with VI
Water Pump (It's almost brand new)
Wiring Harness (Duh)
Throttle Body
Misc:
Flush Coolant
Synthetic Oil
edit: oh yeah, and replacing the breather tube too.
#49
Keelan, while you have the upper intake off you might just want to replace the knock sensor harness (or atleast test it). Plus then you can take the coolant tube off and wash it out.
how dem spark plugs look
oh and dont worry about replacing the CPS wrong, it's 'keyed' in a way that you can only install it one way
ohhh make sure you have some gear oil, It would suck to forget it then be working late at night and not be able to drive the car because theres no gear oil
how dem spark plugs look
oh and dont worry about replacing the CPS wrong, it's 'keyed' in a way that you can only install it one way
ohhh make sure you have some gear oil, It would suck to forget it then be working late at night and not be able to drive the car because theres no gear oil
#52
Well, A full weekend later I have the engine in. It would have been sooner but a bunch of STUPID crap kept holding us back.
Friday Night: Pull all harnesses and drain all fluids. Prop up car take off wheels: 36MM socket missing. Can't buy a new one at 1:00 AM.
Saturday: Pull axles and tranny. Pull Engine. Swap VI and accessories. JDM IACV was filled with corrosion because some water got in there. Spend 2 hours, yes 2 HOURS wrestling with F** engine mounts. End up using VG mounts till next weekend because mine are way ruined. Strip out threads behind flywheel on JDM engine because my stupid *** didn't realize the automatic bolts were shorter. Drill some threads out, get flywheel on. If I get a chance I'll re-tap those threads.
Sunday: More engine mounts. Drop engine in, mount it up, accessories, wiring harness. Clutch isn't here yet so I had to just mount the tranny up with a couple bolts to use the starter. Poured a bit o' oil in the cylinders and cranked for a while to build some oil pressure and coat the walls. Put the coil harnesses back in and it started first spin. open headers are cool.
The Belt tensioner for the AC makes a whining noise but it kinda sounds cool. I'll replace it when I get time. This thing is amazing. I haven't even driven it yet, but when you blip the throttle and the tach goes immediately to 3500 and drops right back down, that's a pretty good sign.
All Injectors and coil packs pass a load balance test unlike my old engine which would run the same even if you pulled the whole front bank of coils.
Exhaust smells clean (as opposed to rotten raunchy gas fumes of old engine).
Exhaust volume is also about 50% of previous volume, probably due to smoothness of the engine.
Best of all:
NO VTC NOISE!!!!!!
Friday Night: Pull all harnesses and drain all fluids. Prop up car take off wheels: 36MM socket missing. Can't buy a new one at 1:00 AM.
Saturday: Pull axles and tranny. Pull Engine. Swap VI and accessories. JDM IACV was filled with corrosion because some water got in there. Spend 2 hours, yes 2 HOURS wrestling with F** engine mounts. End up using VG mounts till next weekend because mine are way ruined. Strip out threads behind flywheel on JDM engine because my stupid *** didn't realize the automatic bolts were shorter. Drill some threads out, get flywheel on. If I get a chance I'll re-tap those threads.
Sunday: More engine mounts. Drop engine in, mount it up, accessories, wiring harness. Clutch isn't here yet so I had to just mount the tranny up with a couple bolts to use the starter. Poured a bit o' oil in the cylinders and cranked for a while to build some oil pressure and coat the walls. Put the coil harnesses back in and it started first spin. open headers are cool.
The Belt tensioner for the AC makes a whining noise but it kinda sounds cool. I'll replace it when I get time. This thing is amazing. I haven't even driven it yet, but when you blip the throttle and the tach goes immediately to 3500 and drops right back down, that's a pretty good sign.
All Injectors and coil packs pass a load balance test unlike my old engine which would run the same even if you pulled the whole front bank of coils.
Exhaust smells clean (as opposed to rotten raunchy gas fumes of old engine).
Exhaust volume is also about 50% of previous volume, probably due to smoothness of the engine.
Best of all:
NO VTC NOISE!!!!!!
#56
Here are some quick pics taken last night.
Sorry there are no pics during the swap. We were all very busy and didnt want to stop to take pics.
http://ghettomods.net/gallery/4-11-04
Sorry there are no pics during the swap. We were all very busy and didnt want to stop to take pics.
http://ghettomods.net/gallery/4-11-04
#58
That's john's white car. He's been rebuilding his engine from internals out.
Found out that the clutch was backordered. Thanks for telling me guys.
The guy dug around and found one back east that they're 2nd day shipping here, so I won't have my car until wednesday.
Could make it up to the spring fling this weekend.
Anyone have a stock front valve cover in good condition with an intact sticker?
Found out that the clutch was backordered. Thanks for telling me guys.
The guy dug around and found one back east that they're 2nd day shipping here, so I won't have my car until wednesday.
Could make it up to the spring fling this weekend.
Anyone have a stock front valve cover in good condition with an intact sticker?
#62
Originally Posted by ChrisCheezer
.. what the hell did u use all thoes cans of brakecleaner on
#64
Mine too, 128,000 on it. I used 2 full cans of CRC green. I probably would have just used one can if I didn't have to worry about metal shavings from porting.
Did you wish you had a recirc. tank of the stuff too? I sure did.
Did you wish you had a recirc. tank of the stuff too? I sure did.
#65
This is good that it went smooth, it gives me confidence. I might need some assistance from you and a few others who have done their swaps. Mine wont be ready for a while since I am going a little far (rebuilding completely, powdercoating/polishing intake and valve covers, extrude hone, new VTC's, etc...) I will definately be calling on you guys in the future if I get caught up on something.
#66
Clutch is finally here.
Nobody deal with morepowerracing.com.
Synopsis:
Made order on March 31.
Called April 6 to find out where it is. "Your card was declined because there was a typo in your billing address. We fixed it, but didn't run the card again."
I said "Fine. Run it right now, and make sure it gets here by friday the 9th." Now, these people are less than 4 hours from me, so that's not unreasonable. "For another $10 it WILL be there friday" they say, so I agree and wait until friday.
Friday comes. No clutch. I call, talk to everyone there. "We can't find any evidence that your order was sent to the warehouse OR shipped. It was charged to your card though. Unfortunately we can't do anything now because its friday evening."
Monday I call, finally find out the thing was backordered the whole time. They give me the option of having one express shipped from back east from a competitor, or a full refund. Knowing it would take me longer than 2 days to get a different clutch I allowed them to express ship it.
That's where I am today. I finally have the clutch and I hope to get it in tonight.
Nobody deal with morepowerracing.com.
Synopsis:
Made order on March 31.
Called April 6 to find out where it is. "Your card was declined because there was a typo in your billing address. We fixed it, but didn't run the card again."
I said "Fine. Run it right now, and make sure it gets here by friday the 9th." Now, these people are less than 4 hours from me, so that's not unreasonable. "For another $10 it WILL be there friday" they say, so I agree and wait until friday.
Friday comes. No clutch. I call, talk to everyone there. "We can't find any evidence that your order was sent to the warehouse OR shipped. It was charged to your card though. Unfortunately we can't do anything now because its friday evening."
Monday I call, finally find out the thing was backordered the whole time. They give me the option of having one express shipped from back east from a competitor, or a full refund. Knowing it would take me longer than 2 days to get a different clutch I allowed them to express ship it.
That's where I am today. I finally have the clutch and I hope to get it in tonight.
#68
CRC Green works great. Expect to use more than a can though. I took off the VI plate in back too, so I could be thorough. It also burns through the junk in the lower manifold too. Expect mucho smoko from the engine for a while
#72
Okay, its all together.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
#73
Originally Posted by Spipedong90
Okay, its all together.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
hahahaahha, you did the same breakin as me, lol. (except mine was the first time driving my car, lol).
#74
What is the TO bearing maker? ACT supplies NIK or NTK brand. It's a decent quality Japanese brand. It will suck to have to drop the tranny again.
btw. I burn the tires in 1st gear everyday! hehe. I thought my old motor was strong. This one is stronger and that's w/o the UDP on!
btw. I burn the tires in 1st gear everyday! hehe. I thought my old motor was strong. This one is stronger and that's w/o the UDP on!
Originally Posted by Spipedong90
Okay, its all together.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
FPOS throwout bearing is already grinding. I'm so not dealing with it until at least a month from now.
IACV gasket is torn I think; the idle won't go below 1500. I guess it could be the coolant temp sensor too, it was throwing code 13 for a while but it went away.
I broke the tires loose at 4000 in first.
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