mpdugg

Hi, I have a 92 GXE and just for the past week, it doesn't want to turn over. I crank it on and off for 2-5 min and it will finally start. I am suspecting the fuel pump. Is there a good way to test the fuel pump? I have priced them and depending on the manufactor date of my car it will be either $95 or $300, quite a difference. I assume the fuel pump is easy to replace, since it is under the rear seat. God knows I have removed that 3 or 4 times getting at my speakers
Does it sound like a fuel pump issue? I here the life of them is ~10years so this one has done well.

Cheers,
Matthew

usmanasif

Well, it could be that your ignition coil inside the distributor cap is oxidized. That disrupts the power and in its early stages, turn over issues are common. Do you know when it was last replaced?

But it could be a dozen other things too. Just my 0.02.

p.s: you removed your fuel pump while getting to your speakers? hmm...

mpdugg

No I removed my rear seat to get at my speakers
I first thought about the cap and rotor since they have come due to be replaced. I have those and wires on there way from Coutesy Nissan. Should arrive in 2 days hopefully. I tried sanding down the contacts in the cap but it didn't seem to help.
I am going to wait to buy the fuel pump until after I have done the tune-up.
Cheers,
Matthew

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Maybe try this, when you go to start your car, wait about 5-7 seconds after you put the key in the "On" position. Normally I wait for the auto seat belt to stop moving. That gives your fuel pump enough time to prime.

Just kind of a small test you could try, maybe a small bandaid fix.

specialmax

While you are doing the tune-up, it's a good idea to go ahead and change the fuel filter. That could be a cause of your problem. You'd have to replace the fuel filter anyway if you change the fuel pump, so go ahead and do that now. It's messy, but it could save you some $$$.

spddracer

iTrader: (3)

Check the EGI/ECCS realy in the underhood fusebox . They sometimes dont give power to the ecm when first cranking . This is a sort of common preblem on some maximas in the past . Swap the relay with another identical on in the panel and see if you problem is cured then buy a new relay

MaximamixaM

I hope you figure it out, because my Maxima has the same thing-occ. requires excessive cranking. Probably one of the above problems. I was looking at the 4th gen forum and someone recently posted trouble starting his car, and that the problem was a blown in dash fuse labeled "starter sig" ?signal. Don't know if 3rd gen is same, but I need to take a look at my car if it's something simple. I'm also going to swap the relay that spddracer suggested.

mpdugg

Last night I replaced my cap, rotor, and wires. This morning the car started without a problem. Could just be the change in weater, who knows, but I will post here if the problem has gone away or not.

Thanks for everyones input.
Cheers,
Matthew

spddracer

iTrader: (3)

Yes definatly check the "start signal" fuse

The relay can cause excesive crank at times and no start conditions . They will just crank untill the relay makes contact

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

what you're desribing and what people are saying are two completely different problems...


do you turn the key and NOTHING happens, or will the engine crank and not start..

the engine turning over means it's actually cranking- just won't start. if it won't even turn over, then the engine itself isn't even moving.

If it's not turning over, most likely it's your starter and/or solenoid. should be able to have the starter tested and replace it for ~$100 or so.

mpdugg

The engine cranks but will not start. In my description Iincorrectly used the term "turn over". The replacement of the cap, rotor and wires didn't fix the problem. I am going to check the start signal fuse/relay. I will keep the post updated.

Cheers,
Matthew

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

okay, gotcha.. Have you checked fuel pressure yet?

I had the same problem with my car about a year ago, and it turned out to be the fuel pump not wanting to do its thing. after I pulled the pump from the tank and unhooked all the wiring, I put it all back together and the pump worked again long enough for me to buy a walbro and install it.

mpdugg

First, I checked the resistance of the fuel pump and it read 1.0 instead of 0.5 which it should have read. Next I tested to make sure the pump was getting power when the key was turned to on, it was. Then I pulled the fuel line from the engine side of the fuel filter. I drilled a hole in the lid of one of those free big plastic cups places are always giving away. I put the line in the lid of the cup and turned the key to on. The pump should have primed at that point but nothing came out. I tried starting the car just to make sure, but no fuel. Pump was bad. I pulled the pump and called Oreilly’s auto. Luckily my manufacture date is 9/91. Cars made after 7/91 take a $95 pump instead of the $300. Cars manufactured before 7/91 have a pump with its own computer attached, and you have to buy the complete pump set. I was able to just remove the motor from the hanger. Luckily I live in Texas and the housing etc did not have a spot of rust on it. I picked up the pump from the store, attached it to the hanger, dropped it in the fuel tank and put it all back together. As soon as turned the key over the cup filled up about an inch. I was in business and the Maxima is back on the road. Just need to get the gas smell out of the car now The Chiltons manual has a good description of replacing the pump, make sure you disconnect the neg. terminal of the battery etc, before working on the pump.

PS I did buy a fuel pressure tester, but didn’t use it and I returned it. It is easy to guess at the pressure when no fuel comes out

Thanks everyone for there help.

Cheers,
Matthew

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

yup.. even though the resistance on the pump shows that it may be okay, you've seen that it's not necessarily the case.

good thing you got it fixed fairly easily though!

Did you get the O-ring around the tank on there properly? if not, you'll be smelling gas in the car until you tear it all apart and re-seat the O-ring.

mpdugg

After all of that the problem still exists. Man this is frustrating. If a relay is bad, would it show up on a diagnostics test? I am not sure what to check next, relays? I will get to the bottom of it.

PS - since I changed the cap, rotor and wires the car runs better, after it finally starts

Also I left my back seat out just incase I didn't seat the o-ring correctly. I think it is in there good but I am not 100%. It was dark, tinted windows and a flashlight in my mouth, not ideal working conditions. Who needs a back set anyway?

Cheers,
Matthew

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

hmmm, could be the relay, yes.. the fuel pump relay is located just above the back bumper, to the left of the trunk latch. very weird that you're having these problems though.

mpdugg

So I have a new fuel pump and cap, rotor, and wireson the car but the problem still exists. Today my car stalled twice at idle. Once on the way to work and once on the way home. I did notice something today though. I know when the car is not going to start now. When I turn the key to the on position, usually the check engine light lights up with the rest of the lights. The times when my car does not start the check engine light does not come on with the rest of the lights. Since my back seat is still out I can hear the fuel pump priming, but this only happens when the check engine light comes on with the rest of the lights in the start position. Any ideas? Does anyone know what sensors control the lightsand what it signifies?

Still hunting for the answer
Matthew

mpdugg

So before I started replacing snesors and relays I decided to take my car by Japanese Autotec here in Austin. I described my problem to Dave the owner and before I finished he said "it's your ignition switch". I then told him car my stalled twice at idle the day before, he said for sure it is my ignition switch. He said he has replaced a lot of them lately on early 1990 Maxima and also on 1995-1997 hondas. He said the contact points between on and start get worn/melted or something. I believe this is the problem and ordered the part today. $25 at autozone $50 at Nissan. I will post back after I replace it and let you know the results.
Cheers,
Matthew

specialmax

I'm kicking myself all over for not knowing that- I had a 1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer that did the same thing and it was the ignition switch. Hope it works.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

see what I get for not having time.
You can verify if the switch is the problem yourself with a test light.
BUT if the rest of the dash lights come on EXCEPT the check engine light then it ain't the ignition switch.
I'd be looking at the ECU relay (it goes by another name but can't remember it)

mpdugg

I lied again, my car still has the problem.

Matthew

MaximamixaM

I didn't read the whole thread again, so if this is repetitious bear with me. I'm no mechanic, but this is what I have found regarding starting problems in Maximas. starter, battery, clutch safety switch, park neutral position tranny switch, worn shift bushings requiring pushing forward on shifter lever, ignition switch. Blue starter interupt relay with 2 plugs and 2 big wires and 2 small wires mounted on inside of driverside fender well below strut tower on vg engine. If no CEL check ECU, check green EGI relay in relay box and try cycling the ignition switch until CEL illuminates. Intermittent problem-starter relay aka interupt relay. of course caps and rotors. Check fuel pump/pressure and fuse. Try cranking with full throttle. I got this info from googling so it may be wrong. But hey, more fun things to check-good luck. My Maxima has also had this 2min cranking problem, so please keep us updated.