CV Boot how to replace it
#1
CV Boot how to replace it
Have a quick question in regards to my cv boots. Both of them are ripped and are leaking grease everywhere, now the cv joints are not making anynoise. I was wondering if i can just replace the boot or will i have to get new drive shaft axles. I really don't want to have to do that but if i have to i have to. And if so do you know where i can find some in a reasonable price range. Thanx
#2
Originally Posted by 3rdgenmaxima
Have a quick question in regards to my cv boots. Both of them are ripped and are leaking grease everywhere, now the cv joints are not making anynoise. I was wondering if i can just replace the boot or will i have to get new drive shaft axles. I really don't want to have to do that but if i have to i have to. And if so do you know where i can find some in a reasonable price range. Thanx
MIKE
#3
#5
3rdgen-
Matt's FAQ sheet is right on, however most people will replace the axles at that point rather than just the boot. Here's why:
1. You have to pull the axle out anyway to do the boot. Plus, there's actually 2 joints per axle, so if the rubber on one end is 10 years old, it is on the other end too.
2. The axles themselves are not really that expensive. Reman's are about $60 per side at Autozone. Granted, the boots are less than $10 each, but..
3. IF you have been driving around for several months or longer with ripped boots, chances are good you've done damage to the bearings inside the joint anyway. Water and sand/dirt are not friendly to CV joints. This is the best reason to go ahead with the axle replacement.
If you decide to replace the whole axle, Matt's sheet is still right on. Just omit the part about the kerosene, but make sure you keep the part about the beers. That's critical... It's still a PITA job either way. Good Luck!
Matt's FAQ sheet is right on, however most people will replace the axles at that point rather than just the boot. Here's why:
1. You have to pull the axle out anyway to do the boot. Plus, there's actually 2 joints per axle, so if the rubber on one end is 10 years old, it is on the other end too.
2. The axles themselves are not really that expensive. Reman's are about $60 per side at Autozone. Granted, the boots are less than $10 each, but..
3. IF you have been driving around for several months or longer with ripped boots, chances are good you've done damage to the bearings inside the joint anyway. Water and sand/dirt are not friendly to CV joints. This is the best reason to go ahead with the axle replacement.
If you decide to replace the whole axle, Matt's sheet is still right on. Just omit the part about the kerosene, but make sure you keep the part about the beers. That's critical... It's still a PITA job either way. Good Luck!
#6
I appreciate everyone's help, I think if i have the cash that i should just go ahead and replace both drive axle's. Makes sense I mean the car is ten years old it wouldn't hurt, since the labor to replace the boots is essentially the same if i replace the drive shafts, well thanks again everyone for all of your help. I will call and get some quotes on the drive shafts, i found my control arm for 75 bucks after i get this fixed i can finally put my wheels on and get an alignment. Finally.........
#7
First... this post is amazing and extremely helpful. I only have one question before I dive into this project. So I'm going to resurrect this post to ask a question. When removing the axle from the tranny on the passenger side, the FSM shows this:
Any tips on this? Will just prying work? Or should I get some sort of long skinny flat head or punch?
Thanks in advance,
Ajan246
Any tips on this? Will just prying work? Or should I get some sort of long skinny flat head or punch?
Thanks in advance,
Ajan246
#8
Don't do that, they sell cv boots that come in halves and don't require even taking the tire off if you don't want. They usually come with the axle grease for after you clean under the old boot. If you take the tire off it will be a little easier. If your going to replace with a 1 piece boot then you might as well do the whole cv axle.
#13
I've had the passenger side drive axle get stuck at the carrier bearing bracket and was not able to seperate at first( wasn't rusty at all). I had to reassemble passenger side drive axle with carrier bearing bracket bolts left out and them set back on ground with wheel back on to ride down street like that. When I was done doing that the carrier bearing seperated from the bracket and that's the way to do it if all else fail. Going in from the drivers side will work but if your not doing drivers side then it's like a waste to disassemble/reassemble just to finish passenger side. If you get stuck you might wanna try that.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dvcamp
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
7
09-18-2015 10:17 AM
Maxima30
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
09-07-2015 06:13 PM