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CV Boot how to replace it

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Old 04-21-2004, 10:38 PM
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CV Boot how to replace it

Have a quick question in regards to my cv boots. Both of them are ripped and are leaking grease everywhere, now the cv joints are not making anynoise. I was wondering if i can just replace the boot or will i have to get new drive shaft axles. I really don't want to have to do that but if i have to i have to. And if so do you know where i can find some in a reasonable price range. Thanx
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 3rdgenmaxima
Have a quick question in regards to my cv boots. Both of them are ripped and are leaking grease everywhere, now the cv joints are not making anynoise. I was wondering if i can just replace the boot or will i have to get new drive shaft axles. I really don't want to have to do that but if i have to i have to. And if so do you know where i can find some in a reasonable price range. Thanx
Boot replacement is very possible, it's not hard but it does take knowledge of knowing what to do and not do. Check out my homepage for a little insight and buy the boot at your local parts store, no need to buy them over the internet.

MIKE
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:20 AM
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FAQ you.

http://mattblehm.com/faq/CV%20boot%20change.txt
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:54 AM
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@ step 8 and 16

Seems like a lot of work.

I'm just gonna leave mine torn till something breaks.
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Old 04-22-2004, 10:20 AM
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3rdgen-
Matt's FAQ sheet is right on, however most people will replace the axles at that point rather than just the boot. Here's why:
1. You have to pull the axle out anyway to do the boot. Plus, there's actually 2 joints per axle, so if the rubber on one end is 10 years old, it is on the other end too.
2. The axles themselves are not really that expensive. Reman's are about $60 per side at Autozone. Granted, the boots are less than $10 each, but..
3. IF you have been driving around for several months or longer with ripped boots, chances are good you've done damage to the bearings inside the joint anyway. Water and sand/dirt are not friendly to CV joints. This is the best reason to go ahead with the axle replacement.

If you decide to replace the whole axle, Matt's sheet is still right on. Just omit the part about the kerosene, but make sure you keep the part about the beers. That's critical... It's still a PITA job either way. Good Luck!
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:04 PM
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I appreciate everyone's help, I think if i have the cash that i should just go ahead and replace both drive axle's. Makes sense I mean the car is ten years old it wouldn't hurt, since the labor to replace the boots is essentially the same if i replace the drive shafts, well thanks again everyone for all of your help. I will call and get some quotes on the drive shafts, i found my control arm for 75 bucks after i get this fixed i can finally put my wheels on and get an alignment. Finally.........
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:48 PM
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First... this post is amazing and extremely helpful. I only have one question before I dive into this project. So I'm going to resurrect this post to ask a question. When removing the axle from the tranny on the passenger side, the FSM shows this:

Any tips on this? Will just prying work? Or should I get some sort of long skinny flat head or punch?


Thanks in advance,
Ajan246
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jaguax
@ step 8 and 16

Seems like a lot of work.

I'm just gonna leave mine torn till something breaks.
Don't do that, they sell cv boots that come in halves and don't require even taking the tire off if you don't want. They usually come with the axle grease for after you clean under the old boot. If you take the tire off it will be a little easier. If your going to replace with a 1 piece boot then you might as well do the whole cv axle.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:44 AM
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Yes, you can pry the axle out. Usually no need to strike the axle with a suitable tool.
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by CandiMan
Yes, you can pry the axle out. Usually no need to strike the axle with a suitable tool.
Thanks so much man. I'll come hunt you down if I get stuck this weekend!
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:11 AM
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Yup.. Never had to mess with the screwdriver method, although on a really rusty car it might be necessary. I've always been able to just pull it apart by hand though.
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:36 PM
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Same here. I have been able to pull all of the axles out by hand, even on the parts car I bought.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:24 PM
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I've had the passenger side drive axle get stuck at the carrier bearing bracket and was not able to seperate at first( wasn't rusty at all). I had to reassemble passenger side drive axle with carrier bearing bracket bolts left out and them set back on ground with wheel back on to ride down street like that. When I was done doing that the carrier bearing seperated from the bracket and that's the way to do it if all else fail. Going in from the drivers side will work but if your not doing drivers side then it's like a waste to disassemble/reassemble just to finish passenger side. If you get stuck you might wanna try that.
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