E-brake problem...
03-22-2001, 03:45 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 599
Ok, here's the deal. Both my mom and I have driven the car up to speeds of 40 mph with the E-brake on. I thought she was an idiot for doing it and then I did it myself. Anyways I figure we drove with it on for a combined 30 mins. Now if I go from park to drive with the E-brake pulled, the car still moves. Is this normal? Any ideas on how to fix it if it isn't?
03-22-2001, 03:58 PM
#2
that's normal
a lot of people drive around with the brake on; it's not good for your car, but it's not that bad
just be sure it clicks the right number of times when you pull up (I don't know the number off hand, but maybe 8 or so)
that can be adjusted by a little nut but you have to take out the center console for that (6 screws and some skill)
a lot of people drive around with the brake on; it's not good for your car, but it's not that bad
just be sure it clicks the right number of times when you pull up (I don't know the number off hand, but maybe 8 or so)
that can be adjusted by a little nut but you have to take out the center console for that (6 screws and some skill)
03-22-2001, 04:05 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 599
thanks...
I'll look up that click stuff in the manual, I think it's around 12 or so. Good to know I didn't toast anything. On a similar note, how does the e-brake actually work? Does it lock the drum brakes in the back or is it a special brake all to itself. And how come I've seen other cars, including a 4th gen max pull the e-brake at like 40 mph and the rear wheels lock up. Mine wheels don't do that at 10 mph unless there is snow on the ground.
03-22-2001, 05:24 PM
#4
Re: thanks...
Originally posted by Cincy94Max
I'll look up that click stuff in the manual, I think it's around 12 or so. Good to know I didn't toast anything. On a similar note, how does the e-brake actually work? Does it lock the drum brakes in the back or is it a special brake all to itself. And how come I've seen other cars, including a 4th gen max pull the e-brake at like 40 mph and the rear wheels lock up. Mine wheels don't do that at 10 mph unless there is snow on the ground.
I'll look up that click stuff in the manual, I think it's around 12 or so. Good to know I didn't toast anything. On a similar note, how does the e-brake actually work? Does it lock the drum brakes in the back or is it a special brake all to itself. And how come I've seen other cars, including a 4th gen max pull the e-brake at like 40 mph and the rear wheels lock up. Mine wheels don't do that at 10 mph unless there is snow on the ground.
also, you can do the same e-brake trick where you pull the brake and turn the wheel to do a 180 turn
you probably aren't going fast enough to lock them up (note: this is NOT good for your tires especially on dry pavement)
03-22-2001, 10:07 PM
#5
GRRRRRR the f***ing forum just lost my 1/2 page reply that explained everything.
so now you get the short answer.
see this pic?
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...2/MVC-001F.JPG
see the gold thing? that's your parking brake lever.
see the big arc looking things? those are your brake shoes.
you pull on your brake cable, the cable pulls on the gold thing, the gold thing shoves the front shoe against the brake drum.
see the little bar thingy under the spring at the top? that's your tensioner. THAT'S the one that needs adjusting, not the one in the center console. this one does everything automatically, as the brake shoes wear. you only need to mess with adjusting tensioners when you're replacing brake shoes.
Now back to your problem.
most likely your problem is the front shoe is glazed over because of the heat. check and make sure it's not completely worn out. if it's not, it's probably very shiny- looks like metal... that means it's glazed from the heat caused by driving witht he brake on. take some 40 grit sandpaper and sand both brake shoes until you see clean friction material. (will take a couple minutes). wear a dustmask too. that s*** is toxic.
do that for both sides and put your car back together. get in the car and pull the ebrake handle several times to make sure the tensioner is set right. it should come up about 4-7 clicks, then get hard to pull.. you should probably be able to pull a few more.
if it's tigher than that, don't worry.
if it's not, then pull and release a few times.. you may hear some clicking from the back of the car. that's the tensioner doing it's thing, no worries.
after driving on your ebrake like that, those pads may never lock up completely again.. as long as they slow the car when you pull on it, or keep it from moving if you put the car in gear while stopped, then you're just fine.
so now you get the short answer.
see this pic?
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...2/MVC-001F.JPG
see the gold thing? that's your parking brake lever.
see the big arc looking things? those are your brake shoes.
you pull on your brake cable, the cable pulls on the gold thing, the gold thing shoves the front shoe against the brake drum.
see the little bar thingy under the spring at the top? that's your tensioner. THAT'S the one that needs adjusting, not the one in the center console. this one does everything automatically, as the brake shoes wear. you only need to mess with adjusting tensioners when you're replacing brake shoes.
Now back to your problem.
most likely your problem is the front shoe is glazed over because of the heat. check and make sure it's not completely worn out. if it's not, it's probably very shiny- looks like metal... that means it's glazed from the heat caused by driving witht he brake on. take some 40 grit sandpaper and sand both brake shoes until you see clean friction material. (will take a couple minutes). wear a dustmask too. that s*** is toxic.
do that for both sides and put your car back together. get in the car and pull the ebrake handle several times to make sure the tensioner is set right. it should come up about 4-7 clicks, then get hard to pull.. you should probably be able to pull a few more.
if it's tigher than that, don't worry.
if it's not, then pull and release a few times.. you may hear some clicking from the back of the car. that's the tensioner doing it's thing, no worries.
after driving on your ebrake like that, those pads may never lock up completely again.. as long as they slow the car when you pull on it, or keep it from moving if you put the car in gear while stopped, then you're just fine.
03-23-2001, 03:56 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 599
thanks...
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
GRRRRRR the f***ing forum just lost my 1/2 page reply that explained everything.
so now you get the short answer.
see this pic?
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...2/MVC-001F.JPG
see the gold thing? that's your parking brake lever.
see the big arc looking things? those are your brake shoes.
you pull on your brake cable, the cable pulls on the gold thing, the gold thing shoves the front shoe against the brake drum.
see the little bar thingy under the spring at the top? that's your tensioner. THAT'S the one that needs adjusting, not the one in the center console. this one does everything automatically, as the brake shoes wear. you only need to mess with adjusting tensioners when you're replacing brake shoes.
Now back to your problem.
most likely your problem is the front shoe is glazed over because of the heat. check and make sure it's not completely worn out. if it's not, it's probably very shiny- looks like metal... that means it's glazed from the heat caused by driving witht he brake on. take some 40 grit sandpaper and sand both brake shoes until you see clean friction material. (will take a couple minutes). wear a dustmask too. that s*** is toxic.
do that for both sides and put your car back together. get in the car and pull the ebrake handle several times to make sure the tensioner is set right. it should come up about 4-7 clicks, then get hard to pull.. you should probably be able to pull a few more.
if it's tigher than that, don't worry.
if it's not, then pull and release a few times.. you may hear some clicking from the back of the car. that's the tensioner doing it's thing, no worries.
after driving on your ebrake like that, those pads may never lock up completely again.. as long as they slow the car when you pull on it, or keep it from moving if you put the car in gear while stopped, then you're just fine.
GRRRRRR the f***ing forum just lost my 1/2 page reply that explained everything.
so now you get the short answer.
see this pic?
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...2/MVC-001F.JPG
see the gold thing? that's your parking brake lever.
see the big arc looking things? those are your brake shoes.
you pull on your brake cable, the cable pulls on the gold thing, the gold thing shoves the front shoe against the brake drum.
see the little bar thingy under the spring at the top? that's your tensioner. THAT'S the one that needs adjusting, not the one in the center console. this one does everything automatically, as the brake shoes wear. you only need to mess with adjusting tensioners when you're replacing brake shoes.
Now back to your problem.
most likely your problem is the front shoe is glazed over because of the heat. check and make sure it's not completely worn out. if it's not, it's probably very shiny- looks like metal... that means it's glazed from the heat caused by driving witht he brake on. take some 40 grit sandpaper and sand both brake shoes until you see clean friction material. (will take a couple minutes). wear a dustmask too. that s*** is toxic.
do that for both sides and put your car back together. get in the car and pull the ebrake handle several times to make sure the tensioner is set right. it should come up about 4-7 clicks, then get hard to pull.. you should probably be able to pull a few more.
if it's tigher than that, don't worry.
if it's not, then pull and release a few times.. you may hear some clicking from the back of the car. that's the tensioner doing it's thing, no worries.
after driving on your ebrake like that, those pads may never lock up completely again.. as long as they slow the car when you pull on it, or keep it from moving if you put the car in gear while stopped, then you're just fine.
03-24-2001, 11:29 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 599
ok did some research...
Looked in the manual and it said 8-10 clicks under 44lbs of pressure. I can get 4 clicks with normal pressure and after that I can barely squeeze off 2 more clicks for a maximum of 6 clicks. The manual says to see your Nissan dealer if the clicks are out of range but there is no way I'm doing that. I'll have to check it out today.
03-24-2001, 11:31 AM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 599
Originally posted by «§»Craig B«§»
that can be adjusted by a little nut but you have to take out the center console for that (6 screws and some skill)
that can be adjusted by a little nut but you have to take out the center console for that (6 screws and some skill)
03-25-2001, 11:31 PM
#9
again, you don't adjust the ebrake by doing anything in the center console. it's all done in the drum assemblies on the rear wheels. if you're not sure how to work on drum brakes, I highly suggest taking it to someone who does and pay them a little money. brakes aren't something to screw around with and hope you get right. 
03-26-2001, 06:05 AM
#10
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
again, you don't adjust the ebrake by doing anything in the center console. it's all done in the drum assemblies on the rear wheels. if you're not sure how to work on drum brakes, I highly suggest taking it to someone who does and pay them a little money. brakes aren't something to screw around with and hope you get right.
again, you don't adjust the ebrake by doing anything in the center console. it's all done in the drum assemblies on the rear wheels. if you're not sure how to work on drum brakes, I highly suggest taking it to someone who does and pay them a little money. brakes aren't something to screw around with and hope you get right.
Matt, you can adjust the ebrake in the console. You can adjust how much it pulls when you pull up the handle by moving the nut on the inside; but this doens't necessarily fix your problem so like Matt said it's probably a good idea to take it to a good mechanic
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