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stud replacement

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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 02:20 PM
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stud replacement

i think i saw it earlier, but does anyone have a link on how to replace the studs in the back of the motor on a VE30DE motor??? i know its a pain, i just want to see what is all involved
Steve
Old Jun 18, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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it's the same as the front replacement..just with a lot less room. right angle drill helps here.
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 08:05 AM
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i still need a list of what i all need ta do for it back or front... it would just be nice to have
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 08:46 AM
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What do you mean by a list? Do you mean a step by step process, or a list of parts? Both are available at 4dsc.com- good write up on how to do it.
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 08:49 AM
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http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...ld_studs.shtml
Old Jun 25, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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i need to replace the front studs on my VE. im sure that the exhaust manifold is warped. only one bolt is missing and the car is really loud. i think that the previous owner drove it like that for a while.

my main concern is the air conditioner compressor and tis hoses. i will not damage anything by just simply bending the hoses like the post says? also, is there any need to take out the gas out of the ac lines? i just wnated to make sure i will do the job correctly. its nice to have a VE a gain.

joshua
Old Jun 25, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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i had that problem on my vg.
i doubt that the manifold is warped
its probably cracked trust me
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 06:29 AM
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well yesterday i removed the alternator and i got the ac compressor and dip stick out of the way. i sprayed the bolts with a ton of liquid wrench. i think i will spray one more day before i tackle the job tomorrow, that is if my studs come in?

questions. is there something i can put on the studs from preventing the same problem of happening again?
is there anyting i shuld replace while i have everything off if front?

thanks

joshua
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Laly
well yesterday i removed the alternator and i got the ac compressor and dip stick out of the way. i sprayed the bolts with a ton of liquid wrench. i think i will spray one more day before i tackle the job tomorrow, that is if my studs come in?

questions. is there something i can put on the studs from preventing the same problem of happening again?
is there anyting i shuld replace while i have everything off if front?

thanks

joshua

anti sieze compound
liquid antiacid
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
anti sieze compound
liquid antiacid
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!

If you use the Nissan studs, they ALLEGEDLY won't break again. Supposedly are better quality than the original ones...
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by broncoguy
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!

If you use the Nissan studs, they ALLEGEDLY won't break again. Supposedly are better quality than the original ones...
wha wha? what did i say that was funny?
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:47 AM
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The MAALOX part...
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:49 AM
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i ordered the parts today. i read the write up on 4dsc.com and it said to use the turbo vg studs on the vg because they are stronger. can i use those turbo vg studs on my VE? anybody know about this? thanks for the picture. i used some already
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by broncoguy
The MAALOX part...
seriously....
you can use liquid antacid for antiseize compound if you have nothing else around.
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
seriously....
you can use liquid antacid for antiseize compound if you have nothing else around.
No kidding? I was thinking the Maalox was for the mechanic for having to do the studs in the first place...
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:18 PM
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so was I, But I prefer tums myself
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 06:30 PM
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one more thing, if a have a couple of studs that are not cracked, what is the best way to get it out. i would like to put all new studs in to prevent the problem to happen again. thanks.

joshua
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Laly
one more thing, if a have a couple of studs that are not cracked, what is the best way to get it out. i would like to put all new studs in to prevent the problem to happen again. thanks.

joshua
Yes, you'd be crazy not to replace all the studs once you are in there. Removing them depends on how stuck they are. You already said you have been soaking them in penetrating oil, so that will probably help. You may have to end up using vise grips on them if they are too stuck. I have heard you can turn on 2 nuts at once and use one for a "lock", but not surte how that would work. That's all I know..
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 12:19 PM
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i got a few of the studs out this morning. it seems that the turbo VG studs are a little shorter thatn the VE studs. so i will use the VE ones as soom as i pic them up from the dealer.

i also cracked a stud from my y-pipe while i was trying to remove it. ill keep you guys posted on how thing go. thanks
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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For thr rears, is it easiest to do them while everything sits tight, drop the motor, or pull the head?
Old Jul 8, 2004 | 03:38 PM
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well i have to use studs from only the VE, the turbo vg studs are shorter that the studs from the VE. does anyone know if the VE studs where upgraded. i dont what to run into the same problem again with these crappy studs. also, does anyone know what i can put on the studs for the y-pipe so that the wont get so rusted up. i crack 3 out of 6 studs when i took off the y-pipe. i hate rust.

joshua
Old Jul 8, 2004 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by lastlaugh
For thr rears, is it easiest to do them while everything sits tight, drop the motor, or pull the head?
I did mine on a VG by removing the crossmember and rear mount and supporting the engine under the oil pan with a jack. There's room to get to the rears without pulling the head. Matt93SE did the same thing, and he has a VE, so I guess the process is universal. Someone on here has also done it on a VG from the top, I guess that might work too. Anyway, I wouldn't pull the head. It's not necessary.
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