leojs

Beginner at working on cars here. So far, I have done basic stuff like replaced my defective Window regulator, changed the oil, replaced the air filter, replaced the fuel filter, etc.

I bought the Haynes book for the Maxima at Pep Boys thinking it would help me out-- it's not bad, but the photos aren't great and some of the instructions assume probably more know-how than I have.

I bought a PCV valve and wanted to replace it as preventive maint. based on my mileage. It says in the book it's behind the throttle body on the rear valve cover. I think the book is based on the Maxima SE which has a different engine than my SOHC GXE (VG30E right?).

Anyway, I can't freaking find the PCV. If there are good photos anywhere that would be cool. The book says you just pull it out and check it for suction to make sure it's working... I have not been able to find anything that would pull right off.

Also, the car is a 1993 GXE and now has about 74K miles. I was thinking maybe plugs and wires might be a good idea at some point, but not sure how challenging that job might be. The instuctions I found under the FAQ section of this site for the Window Regulator replacement was awesome... the pictures matched, and the steps were so well written I was able to blast right through it. If anyone knows where I could find something similar for PCV valve (just a good photo of it with my GXE engine would be great) and also the best wires and instructions or some plain feedback on plugs/wires replacement (I don't have too much pride, if it's something better off to be done at a shop or requires special tools that's cool-- just tell me).

I love my Max ;-) Going to go out now and install a cup holder I bought from a Saab on eBay so I don't have to keep wedging my drinks inbetween the seats using the parking brake as a holder! ;-)

Later all....

-Leo

PS - Is the max. grease-fitting free? Are there any nipples down there I need to crank some grease into? I don't think I saw any...

ArcticDC5

The PCV valve is located on the intake plenum (the silver large piece on top of the engine that says Nissan 3000) It is on the back closest to the drivers seat. You will see a black hose attached to it. Its easy, just remove the black hose, unscrew the pcv valve.

Spark plugs are easy. Just make sure you have the right socket set, and unplug each spark plug wire one at a time so you don't confuse them.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

As he said, this car is absolute cake to work on- at least for basic maintenance. spark plugs on these cars are some of the easiest I've ever worked on (which is a good number of cars now.)


the PCV valve is the large, rusty fitting on the top right corner of that picture.. very easy.

spark plugs- just use the OEM type NGK plugs. don't touch any other brand, and don't waste your time with platinums. just buy the $1.50 plugs and drop 'em in. change them about every 20k miles and the car will run happy forever.

plug wires? NGK sells some, Vitek, or OEM. you can find the NGK or Vitek online sometimes, or you can get OEM. the $50 parts store stuff will work just fine if you don't plan on doing much performance mods to it.

also replace your distributor cap and rotor.. I only recommend OEM for those parts though. very easy to change again- just don't pull off all the spark plug wires at once.. swap them over one at a time and you won't have any problems putting it back together.


Grease fitttings.... there are none on this car, unless it's had aftermarket ball joints or tie rod ends installed on it. Perfect Circle and MOOG both have grease nipples on them, but the OEM parts don't.
otherwise there are no bushings or joints that need lubed.

leojs

Thanks guys, great info-- I successfully replaced the PCV earlier today. The new one kind of threaded in hard... made me a little nervous as I didn't want to destroy the threads if it was wrong, but the replacement was a purolator brand replacement and was the one in their catalog for a 1993 SOHC Max... it looked identical to the original, including the threads-- it would start ok for the first couple turns then got tight. I just used a wrench and it went on with minor resistance... I just thought it would hand-thread a bit more than it did...

Thanks again, and awesome info on the spark plugs Matt. The rear ones look super easy to access, the fronts though look like they are way the hell down there, any special tool needed to get the boot back on the plug tightly down in there?

Also, I wanted to donate to the site and be able to use the search tool, but it doesn't look like donations are being accepted currently?

Later all, thanks again......

-Leo

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The threads are tapered very slightly, so it will get harder to thread the farther you go in. that's the way it is with standard pipe threads.

for the plugs, just use a 12" extension. use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert to keep the plugs from falling out. usually I give them a thin layer of spit on the plug's ceramic part before I stick it in the socket so it will come off easier and you won't end up pulling the socket off the extension...

to get the plug wires back on, just line them up with the metal pins on the intake manifold and press them in. they'll have an obvious "click" type feel when they seat on the plug correctly, and they should sit just about even with the metal pins. that's it. rears are the same, but they don't have the metal pins on the manifold to hold the plug wires in place.

as for donating, the admin of the place has stopped accepting donations indefinitely...

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

don't know if anyone had mentioned yet cuz I am too lazy to read them all. just a quick suggestion. From my experience when you put on the new PVC valve, only screw it in NO more than half way. If you put it all the way in, it's gonna crack your manifold. Happened to me and I would seriously hated to see another fella crashes into this booby trap.

Maxima NutBag

I agree, 3rd gen VG's have some of the easiest plugs in the world to work on. Changing mine took about 5 minutes. As mentioned before, put a little lube on the socket so it comes off the plug easily when you're done installing the plug. The only problem I had was one plug tried to cross thread, that was about it.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Just remember what angle you pulled the plugs out and they shouldn't cross-thread. the biggest mistake I see many people do is they pull all the plugs and wires off, then they don't see the proper angle on the head when they try to put the plugs back in. it's turned about 5-10 degrees off-kilter and many people think they go straight into the head.
If you line it up first, then you won't have any problems cross-threading.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

rubber hose solves the starting cross-thread problem

leojs

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm sure I will be fine. Seems like I would be able to give it a couple turns by hand first with the socket on the extension to tell if it's turning easily and not cross threaded...

Thanks again for the awesome response and support. This saves me money by being able to do it myself (and honestly, I enjoy this stuff-- working on cars is new to me as a computer geek and I find it fun and challenging).

Now, is there any freaking way to get rid of the comment next to my name when I post? ;-) I do read the freakin FAQ, and if the search option worked it would definitely help people not have to post about stuff that was already discussed without wading through 100's of messages.

Later!

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

A cheap Chiltons/Haynes manual would be a worthy investment

bkea

<<rubber hose solves the starting cross-thread problem>>
I second this tip. I cross threaded a plug in my Nissan truck once, before I started using the ol rubber hose.

ALSO, my car always has trash and sand down by the base of the spark plugs. I use an air gun to blow out it out or a vacuum to suck it out. You don't want it getting into the cylinder.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yah, when you break 50 (?) posts it changes. took me a couple of days to get rid of it when I started (ok about a week)