I was just wondering if any max experts knew how to tune up their engine. Including things like

spark plug replacement
idle adjustment
wires replacement
Fuel and air filter replacement

I want to try and tune up my engine......Would that be possible with some instructions from any of you experts out there?

Thanks

 

Have you read any of the posts or stickies on here? Phriday Phunnies

 

Get a Haynes manual. They can be a bit useful

 

You can do it fine. Buy a cheap service manual and read it.

BTW. You might want to check the "wires" thing asap.

 

Tuneup on this engine is relatively easy. Due to the individual coilpacks on this engine there are NO plugwires. The coils sit atop each plug directly connected. There are three coilpacks showing from the lower valve cover and the upper intake tubes. You will need a sparkplug socket and a long, say 9 inch, extension to reach the plugs down in the coilpack wells. Inspect the coilpacks for cracks and inspect the plugs for proper deposits (tan or brown and dry and uniform across cylinders). Ideally put some silicone boot release on the coilpack's rubber tips. Be careful screwing in the new plugs. Do it by hand using the plug socket and extension so as not to crossthread it. Don't overtighten it. Ideally use a torque wrench, because if you strip the plug threads you'll be very disappointed in yourself. I think the proper torque is about 14 or 15 Ft.-lbs. but I can't remember. Someone on the forum can fill in this blank or get it from the manual.
The fuel filter can be difficult due to it's fire potential. What I've done is remove the fuel filter fuse, run the engine until it sputters, leave it overnight to cool off and lose more pressure, then remove it the next day with a tin foil tray or some thing under it to catch the gas that will come out. Don't sop the gas up with paper towels or rags and leave them in your garage or garbage can (spontaineous combustion). Leave them outside in the open air to dry out, then dispose of them. You'll need two open end wrenchs to remove each fuel line connection. One on the bolt and the other holding the filter to keep it from twisting. Use new copper washer gaskets when reassembling and install it with the arrow painted on the filter going the direction of the fuel flow. Watch how the connectors come apart. The sequence from the filter is washer, fuel line, washer and last bolt. You can tighten these bolts pretty good, but ideally use a torque wrench.
The air filter can be a pain, but once you learn how to do it it gets easier. The air filter is in the plastic box on the drivers side wheel and has a large corregated rubber pipe attached that goes to the engine. There are four spring clamps on the side that hold the top on that you must push away from the box to release the top. Make sure they all swing out of the way as one tends to want to swing back and relatch. Pull the top up to reveal the filter, it won't pull up far, due to the connections on top and below, just enough to pull up and slide out the square corregated filter below while noting it's oriegntation. DON'T get dirt from below into the upper side of the housing. Slide the new filter in with the outside gasket ring upwards.
Idle adjustment is easy, but more difficult to find. It's a screw on the idle air control. On the corregated air snorkle, look at the large tube that comes out of its' side towards the rear and follow it down. It ends at the IAC. On the side of the IAC towards the front of the car is the screw or bolt that controls the idle speed (my car differs from the manual pictures). You can confirm it with your tachometer. The idle speed should be checked when the engine has totally warmed up with all accesories off (like the radio or air conditioning). Just spot check it with your tach in the above conditions. If it's close, leave it alone ( the idle speed is listed on the sticker stuck to the underside of the hood). There may be some connectors to unplug while adjusting the idle, I don't remember off the top of my head, but there's where a manual come in handy. I use the Haynes ones, but the Chiltons are fine too.
When you do this you should also check your fluids, check the brake and clutch cylinders for leaks and the brake cylinders for leaks. There's a whole list of things to inspect, tighten and top off in the book and the ideal is to get the book and check them all.
I hope I've covered it all. If not someone else on the forum will correct me. I highly recommend getting the manual. For the $15 it costs it will save you lots of time and effort.

 

now thats a l-o-n-g post, LOL

 

long post aint the word..get a fsm and some tools

 

Wow that is a lot of stuff.......

And all i thought i needed to do was get a socket disconnect the packs and replace them.....no problem.

I guess I'll need some instructional book for dummies to complete type of job, but I'll try the Haynes first.

If anyone is willing to teach me the basics.......email me or PM me. I'm in Jamaica Qnz, NY. So if anyone has time on the weekend.....Holla at me

Thanks for the advice tho.........love this place

Kingsley
bigkgs@yahoo.com
AIM - bigkgsny