Just running this by you guys, in case anyone can pinpoint it.
Engine light has been on for about a week, with no noticeable issues. Then today I had a deep stumble. it appears in this article which someone posted http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html

Its a deep stumble, it idles fine but as soon as you take off there is an immediate loss of power and the rpms are unable to go above 1800 rpms. Shifting around sometimes helps. but it seems to need a second to rest and then its fine again. I noticed around start up it would happen more and then sort of clear out after i had gotten onto more open road and worked through the gears. It also did it in third (also around startup initially).

Although I fully intend to go through all the proceedures, I was just wondering if anyone was familliar enough to give me a short cut.

-Thanks

PS I haven't had any work on anything remotely assosciated with the issue.

 

well first of all find out why the engine lights on. pull the trouble code off the ECU

if you dont know how this site should help out:

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

except the ECUs located in center on passenger side to the left of the glove compartment instead of next to the gas pedal for our car (VE) i think

 

I know it's time to start learning about the ENTIRE vehicle rather than just the one thing thats giving grief.

 

It is the front left heated O2 sensor and the knock sensor. (you're right about the location of the ECU)

Even before it happened, I kept getting this gut feeling to change the fuel filter as my gas mileage is in the upper to low 20s. I have noticed a feint fuel smell outside the vehicle. waddya think?

 

hmm.. is it still idling fine? does it ever stall or just stumble?

and do these problems ever happen on cold engine? try to find out if its a cold or hot problem.. or if it makes no difference

Knock sensor: almost a given that it will be unhealthy on all high mileage VE maximas. For it to effect your car so drastically it would have to be really bad. It gradually gets worse as times goes on. But since they start going bad in all VEs eventually and start out with mild effects, it may very well not be the cause of this problem. If you get these problems on a cold engine, you can rule the KS out as the main cause of THIS problem

O2 sensor: only one o2 sensor on our car. The problem with this code (33) is that from my experience LOTS of things can trigger it, from injectors to MAF... even tho it only mentions o2 sensor. Once again, o2 sensor does nothing on a cold engine, so if you have cold problems dont blame the o2. If your o2 sensor is old, if you have 60 bucks to spare changing it is probably a good gamble for increased gas mileage, and possible performance. dont bother if its relatively new tho

The inability to rev past 1800 rpm when this happens is interesting, i may have some theories on that but let me know about the cold or hot thing.. and any other questions up there

 

Ok for sure it's a cold problem. It always clears up after maybe five minutes. (still i haven't been on any drives longer that 15 minutes) I am warming it up right now and we'll see what happens.

I noticed it in idle today, it sounded like reallly bad gas. it got worse the more gas I gave it (out of gear) it got to the point where i was sure it was going to stall so eased off and it settled down. It also does it in gear where out of nowhere it happens and giving it more gas causes it to buck (just like a newbie stick driver). I certainly feel that it is a fuel related problem due to the excessive pinging when its happening. Alright I'll let you know how the drive goes.

 

I posted that web page hoping it will help someone. First check your codes. Mine was code 12 bad MAF but was reluctant to replace it becuase I was told by a master nissan tech it would fail completely (will not go over 2500 rpms). Mine would stall and die. Pull over and it would start every time and run great. I checked everything I could but could never find the problem. Finalily replaced it(3-weeks later). Also check your TPS because your sensor may not detect the position of your throttle and may be sending a false signal to your ECU which in turn might tell the the fuel management system to cut fuel or tell the mass flow air sensor to cut air. Also you can clean the throttle body, adjust the TPS, coil, or adjust AAC(pull rubber cap of turn screw, idle adjustment). But see if you can read the codes first. second pull the harness off the MAF and if it does the exact same thing it might be it. Good luck and do not give up because I almost did and was ready to hang the car or myself. Intermitten problems our the worst...P.S that smell be your engine running too rich or not enough air.

 

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago. The dealer said he couldn't read any codes off the computer and thought it was the MAF. When I asked the cost, he said $650. I told him that was not the problem. [grin]

In the end, _I_ pulled off the codes from the computer, (code 33 - O2 sensor), followed the diagnostic procedure described in Haynes (disconnect the sensor - did the problem go away?), and had the O2 sensor replaced.

Problem went away for good.

 

Ok so after a good warm up there is no problem. I stopped and put ten bucks in and it acted just a little but then fine. Ofcourse I can't for the lile of me find my Haynes Manual at least I don't have much driving to do.

My codes were 33 and 34 as posted above. (sort of)

 

Oh don't worry I did a Hindu ritual and prayed for it and that seems to have done the trick. Its great, holistic auto repair.

But seriously how does one fix a problem which doesn't manifest itself?