I was putting my engine together and the new rods and pistons hit the lower bolt that hold those metal plates in the block on.....

1. do I really need those plates in there?

2. can I just take out the lower bolt? (kinda risky)

what should I do I would really like to finish putting this engine together.

 

uhhh... not sure i'd remove anything from the inside of an engine. its most likely there for a reason. if they're hitting something most likely you didn't get something clearance right or the parts you're using aren't the right ones. i'd recheck everything before completely putting it back together. i'm not 100% positive but when dealing with internals i would take no shortcuts and make sure everything is done right the first time so that you don't have to remove everything again.

 

pics?

I dont even understand what are the metal plates, only thing I can think of are baffles in the oil pan. I've assembled a VG bottom end before, its pretty much the same as a VE

crank shaft
rods
bearings
gurdle (sp?)

if it's for the gurdle you need them I forget it if has a bearing cap built in (I done believe so) but they use that because the block skirt is so short. Without it the crank will wobble the same as or maybe worse than a DSM on a bad day

 

when you pull the crank there are 2 metal pieces one at each end. both held in by 2 bolts they are inline with the 1st and 6th cylinders. I know it turns fine when they weren't in. now the bottom bolt doesnt give it enough clearance.

 

I know I really need a digital camera would come in handy right about now. I'll see if I can find one.

 

well I got rid of the washer and shaved the bolt down a bit. Put them in tonight with high strength thread locker. It worked have enough clearance for the crank to rotate freely.

 

What made you pull the motor (bottom end) apart to begin with?
With you stating you're going back in with new rods and pistons are these aftermarket pieces of OEM Maxima parts?
Did the motor spin freely before it was taken part? (dependant on question #1)

Like the others I don't know exactly what you're refering to, but if you had to get rid of a washer and shave a bolt in order for the motor to rotote freely I wouldn't think that was a wise thing to do. But we're not there and without pics and a better detail discripton it's hard to tell.

MIKE

 

my only guess is aftermarket rods were hitting the gurdle, but I am pretty sure there was more room last time i checked.

 

I pulled the engine cause I messed up with a gasket when I did the timing belt the fist time. And when I did the spark plugs afterwards I noticed that 2 of the plugs had oil all over them. So I figured it wa the piston rings going.

Yeah the engine spun freely B4, I was talking about when I put those little metal plates in the block that, the crank wouldnt rotate all the was cause of the interference with the lower bolt and the corner of the #1 and #6 rod.

and since I Was getting a valve job and resurfacing of my heads I decided to get valve sprigns too. might help when ever I get a JWT computer in the future.

I am putting 300z rods and pistons in. I took a pic of what I was talking about and will get it developed when I can. No it was not hitting thr gurdle.