I'm pretty good at diagnosing engine trouble, but when it comes to suspension; i'm kinda of a rookie.
Anyway, back to the problem......everytime i punch it (mainly on the freeways going above 60+) my car just sways to the contorsion of the freeway. If my lane has a slant to the left, i kinda have to counter by turning the wheel to the right to compensate. However, under normal driving conditions, (just keeping the car at the same speed) the car is fine.
I was thinking my sway bar was unhooked or something; but it only does it under accelaration, so that can't be the problem.
Well guys, fire away. lemme know whatcha think.

 

I have that same problem and had my rack changed and it's still somewhat there. Then I noticed they never changed the tie rod end bushings so I think that's where my problem lies. It's like whenever I'm on a highway where alot of trucks drive on, in which from their weight the highway starts to conform to the path the trucks go in, my car will sway a little bit but on a flat highway I have no problems.

 

so by replacing those, did that fix the problem or was it something else?

 

I have to think about this more carefully, but I'm thinking it might be worn control arm bushings since they could also cause a pull under accelleration.

 

when I had bad bushings on my max, it jumped under acceleration from a light.

 

I had the same problem too. it was the control arm bushings

 

if it was just doing it from a start I would say that it could be the bushing, but if it is doing it on the highway which is scary I've had this happen to me, but you might want to get your rack opinion checked out. I swapped mine and it doesnt do it anymore.

 

im pretty sure it's the bushings. i had the same problem and after changing them it was fine. the way i determined that is i jacked up the car, then tried to pull on the wheel a little, from side to side. at the same time, someone else was watching underneath and saw that the bushings in the arm (or whatever you call it) was broken, n thats why the wheel was so loose. also, it was so bad that even when i was at a dead stop n then put a little power and kick to the car, i would hear a single clonking sound.

 

rack and pinion is brand new. when it was bad it did the same thing as it does now but all the time, not just driving normal.

 

then just get the bushings done.

 

I sell the bushings and the whole arm if neccesary

 

What does it do on an even surface?

 

it's pretty easy to drive. nothing major. But when you get on it, it's like the car has major torque steer!

 

tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings. could even be a wheel bearing, but I doubt that one.. I'd put my money on the first three things I mentioned. at 100k+ miles, it's time to replace all of those whether they look worn or not.

 

Check the inner tie rod sockets for play too. (Unless your new rack came with them?) They're like ball joints inside the rack boots.

 

If the torque steer is violent enough to almost rip the wheel out of your hand, I would put money on the tie rod ends. That was my problem