FSTB, is it worth it, or noticable?
#3
I will let you
I will let you know, i have one coming in two days, i got it from courtesy, and it was 60 bucks, so let me take her our a rip on it in the turns and then I iwll get back to ya... I am wonderin about the back one though myself?? I dont know of you will notice as muhc of an advantage....
#5
i bet you paid...
i bet that you paid alot for that stillen one, i got mine from coutesy, well i will get it, its in the mail right now, when you install it, do you have to tighten the inner adjustments or do you just want it snug?? I am in ny where you at??
#7
impressions.
The Max is more stable in turns. However, I have the opinion that it wants to push (plow) a little more on hard turns (still leaning less). It almost appears that you need turn the wheel more to compensate for the push under the harder turns.
I went into a 25 mph off ramp at 75 mph this evening. Upon entering it, I eased on the break, and the Max held very good. I did manage to move the rear end a little, which was scary, but it stabelized out and the 215 D60's held like it always does.
Overall, I think it is a good mod and stabelizes the front end. The Maxima remains well balanced on high speed corners. I would like to try out the bigger sway bar in the rear sometime. Has anyone tried that? How do you like it?
I went into a 25 mph off ramp at 75 mph this evening. Upon entering it, I eased on the break, and the Max held very good. I did manage to move the rear end a little, which was scary, but it stabelized out and the 215 D60's held like it always does.
Overall, I think it is a good mod and stabelizes the front end. The Maxima remains well balanced on high speed corners. I would like to try out the bigger sway bar in the rear sometime. Has anyone tried that? How do you like it?
#8
the fstb is a front strut tower bar, it is a bar that connects the strut towers stiffening the suspension becuase it doesnt allow the strut towers to bend and flex. check out http://www.courtesyparts.com, and yes it is a straight bolt on.
#11
its easy
the FSTB is a very easy mod it took me 15 min, you just remove the top three strut tower bolts, on a flat surface, and then line yours up make sure its tight, and bolt it on and you are done, you can get one for 60 bucks at courtesy
http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ I am curious about the back one though, i knwo you gotta take alot of stuff out to put it in is it worth the effort and money???
http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ I am curious about the back one though, i knwo you gotta take alot of stuff out to put it in is it worth the effort and money???
#12
Follow up:
I ordered the $80 FSTB (polished, fluted aluminum bar)from Courtsey. Only takes a few minutes to put in, and makes a big difference (90 GXE). It even helps on straight, crummy, NYC roads and streets.
One thing I nooticed when I put it in: The 3 nuts on the strut towers were not tight when I took them off. There was virtually no tension on the bolts. They obviously settle with time and need to be re-torqued every so often. Now that the struts are tightened down now there is less noise going over broken pavement.
I ordered the $80 FSTB (polished, fluted aluminum bar)from Courtsey. Only takes a few minutes to put in, and makes a big difference (90 GXE). It even helps on straight, crummy, NYC roads and streets.
One thing I nooticed when I put it in: The 3 nuts on the strut towers were not tight when I took them off. There was virtually no tension on the bolts. They obviously settle with time and need to be re-torqued every so often. Now that the struts are tightened down now there is less noise going over broken pavement.
#15
The difference is only $20, and I have a shinny bar.
You don't really need a torque wrench. According to my Stanza manual (close enough) the torque values are 29-40 ft/lbs. When installing, mount the "C" shaped brackets first, without the bar in place. This makes sure the sit flush without any binding. Then lay the bar in and adjust its length so the attaching bolts just slide in, and then tighten them down. Then tighten the rod end lock nuts. I think checking the tightness of everthing after a couple of weeks would be a good idea.
You don't really need a torque wrench. According to my Stanza manual (close enough) the torque values are 29-40 ft/lbs. When installing, mount the "C" shaped brackets first, without the bar in place. This makes sure the sit flush without any binding. Then lay the bar in and adjust its length so the attaching bolts just slide in, and then tighten them down. Then tighten the rod end lock nuts. I think checking the tightness of everthing after a couple of weeks would be a good idea.
#16
Torque specs on the strut tower nuts is 32ft-lbs. it's very important that you get the correct torque (or something close).. as has been said already, if they come loose, the next time you hit a big bump, the forces on your strut could possibly cause things to go crazy and you'll end up with only 3 wheels under the car.
Scary stuff, but I've seen it happen before when one guy lost one of the nuts and drove around with only 2.. one broke goign over a bump, and the last one tore the sheetmetal out with it. the car was totalled just from going over a speedbump. DOH!
as for performance increases, YES. it makes a noticeable difference. cornering is much tighter on the initial turn-in. other than that, you won't feel much difference. bumpy roads and stuff are brought out a little more.. it makes the car feel more like a feather-light honduh than a heavy Maxima.
for the guy who said it felt like it "plowed" into corners, try raising your tire pressures then take the same corner again.. you'll notice a HUGE difference. when my tires are aired up to the correct pressure, the car corners like it's on rails. it only "plows" when tire pressures are under 20psi.
Scary stuff, but I've seen it happen before when one guy lost one of the nuts and drove around with only 2.. one broke goign over a bump, and the last one tore the sheetmetal out with it. the car was totalled just from going over a speedbump. DOH!
as for performance increases, YES. it makes a noticeable difference. cornering is much tighter on the initial turn-in. other than that, you won't feel much difference. bumpy roads and stuff are brought out a little more.. it makes the car feel more like a feather-light honduh than a heavy Maxima.
for the guy who said it felt like it "plowed" into corners, try raising your tire pressures then take the same corner again.. you'll notice a HUGE difference. when my tires are aired up to the correct pressure, the car corners like it's on rails. it only "plows" when tire pressures are under 20psi.
#17
I still think that it "pushes" into the corners. I've got the 17x8 binno's with KumHo Ecsta Supra 712 rubbers (235/45/ZR17) (The rims and the FSTB were the first thinkgs that i did to my 90SE.) It calls for 44PSI which is what I tried out for starters. It pushes in hard corners. I tried inflating them to 47-50PSI and the same thing. I think that a few things that help out are as follows:
1. Lowering springs and/or Tokicos/Eibachs- Lower center of gravity, stiffer suspension = better cornering.
2. Front and Rear Sway bars, not Strut tower braces- These are heavier, thicker sway bars that "flex" under cornering. I don't have this mod yet, but plan on doing so very soon. Mainly because when I took a look at my STOCK rear sway bar, I discovered that it IS VERY bent/twisted. I guess that's what I get for cornering hard with the STOCK sway bars.
3. Rear strut tower brace- This would require the permanent removal of your back seats because they would be unable to fit correctly back into place mainly because the RSTB is similar to the FSTB in that it "raises" or is "arched" up a little bit. Freedom Design makes them for the Maximas. The place that I got them from was http://www.ptuning.com but they don't sell the rear one anymore, just the front one. Anyone know where else you can get a RSTB? You can always get one custom made, but that costs lots of $$$.
4. 16" 17" (possibly 18") wheels that are at least 7 or 7.5" wide- Get this mod along with some good tires, and you will definately feel a difference even if you don't have any of the listed above mods.
with 17x7.5 go with 225/45/17
with 17x8.0 go with 235/45/17
many more....
1. Lowering springs and/or Tokicos/Eibachs- Lower center of gravity, stiffer suspension = better cornering.
2. Front and Rear Sway bars, not Strut tower braces- These are heavier, thicker sway bars that "flex" under cornering. I don't have this mod yet, but plan on doing so very soon. Mainly because when I took a look at my STOCK rear sway bar, I discovered that it IS VERY bent/twisted. I guess that's what I get for cornering hard with the STOCK sway bars.
3. Rear strut tower brace- This would require the permanent removal of your back seats because they would be unable to fit correctly back into place mainly because the RSTB is similar to the FSTB in that it "raises" or is "arched" up a little bit. Freedom Design makes them for the Maximas. The place that I got them from was http://www.ptuning.com but they don't sell the rear one anymore, just the front one. Anyone know where else you can get a RSTB? You can always get one custom made, but that costs lots of $$$.
4. 16" 17" (possibly 18") wheels that are at least 7 or 7.5" wide- Get this mod along with some good tires, and you will definately feel a difference even if you don't have any of the listed above mods.
with 17x7.5 go with 225/45/17
with 17x8.0 go with 235/45/17
many more....
#20
There is no point in even trying to find, let alone put in a RSTB. The top strut mounts are by a bulkhead that runs across the car. This is different than 4th and 5th G Maximas, which is why those are available.
If the front end pushes (understeers) the roll stiffness of the front end is too high, relative to the rear. A rear anti-sway bar would help this. Putting in stiffer springs in the front would make it worse. Strut tower braces have no effect on this. In general, increasing roll stiffness and lowering the center of gravity effect transient response, but not ultimate cornering speed. That is it gives the car a "snappier" feel, but won't get you through a "sweeper any" faster.
If the front end pushes (understeers) the roll stiffness of the front end is too high, relative to the rear. A rear anti-sway bar would help this. Putting in stiffer springs in the front would make it worse. Strut tower braces have no effect on this. In general, increasing roll stiffness and lowering the center of gravity effect transient response, but not ultimate cornering speed. That is it gives the car a "snappier" feel, but won't get you through a "sweeper any" faster.
#23
I live in Brooklyn, NY. I have no interest in changing springs, or going to large wheels and very low aspect tires because it would beat the crap out of the chassis. A FSTB is different though. By keeping the front part of the car stiffer the twisting loads are more evenly distributed through out the structure of the car. With a FSTB there is no increase in the stress on the chassis or increase in harshness. A FSTB, combined with struts like the KYB's makes a good handling "city" car.
#24
I put in my FSTB about 3 weeks ago, and can tell a big difference for the good. I took a long corner at about 102 mph last night, and it felt great . If it weren't for some distant headlights coming my way, I would have gone for 115 mph. These cars are the BEST! I hope I never have to replace it. Long live the 3rd gen maxima!!!!
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