disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

I was pushing the idea of installing leds where my head unit is, and from the stickies, I managed to solder together of leds that works just fine. BUT, as I was experimenting with where to tap the power from, I decided that I would tap it from the cig. lighter harness, which works fine until I crossed the wires by accident , now a fuse is blown sowhere and none of my dash light would come up, including the gauge clusters. I have searched high and low for the location of the fuse, but could not find it, and yes, I did check the under the hood near the battery and the fuse panel, could someone please be kind enough to show me where it is. Thanks.

Also, is it possible that those light are controlled by a relay somehow, if so, how much are the relays?

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

its labeled on the fuse block by your left leg under dash if you only crossed wires then you just blew a fuse

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

I did check the fuse panel underdash already, it was the first place I searched, and I even went as far as pulling each one out to see if it is blown, please help me, I have a lead foot problem (as most maxima owners here have), so I do need to know what speed I'm travelling whlile driving at night, without this light, I will be driving according to the sound of engine rev and the gear positions

Please help the out guys, please.......

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, I had to post something to keep my thread from being buried somewhere.

Please help me out guys, I know what I'm asking is not a complicated question, but I am going crazy from running in and out of the car trying to figure things out, any help would be greatly appreciated.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if you didn't blow a fuse, you may have blown a fusible link. the fusible links are under the hood.
Good luck finding the bad one.

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

thanks, also, where is the general area under the hood that the fusible links are located at?

Wiking

U never mention your vehicle...

My J30 VG30E -93 fuseblock, second from top right, is a 10A tail lamp RH that works for dash light and the cig lighter -lamp also...

These top two fuses get their juice via the main light sw [first-parking light pos]. No relay. No fuses under the hood. Main lights do have a relay, however. (...now I speak what my car has)

If the switch is worn (typically they are poor quality) then lights wont come on be it good or bad fuse. Play with it, if it will not come 'online', open the whole switch pack and clean its contact points.

Btw. Why-where do you add those leds? I did add a lot of them, door *****, win opener switches, floor, dash etc.

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

thanks wiking, I will look into that. btw, my max is a 90 SE stick, and for your question of why the leds, I started out trying to learn how to solder, then when I got the thing working, I thought it would be a waste to let it sits around. SO I happened to have drilled holes into the trim piece where the stereo is to let the ligh behind it to shine, plus it got that OEM look, and I ended up sticking the LEDS in two of the six holes, for the glorious fews second before the shortage, it looks really good. Oh well, back to the drawing board I guess.

did I mentioned that I like to tinker around with things to learn how they work and/or add things to it? for starter, I took out my entire dash and reassembled them so many times that it is second nature to me now. The traits of a "modder" flows within me I guess.

Wiking

"I like to tinker around" --->Mee too. Shorts will happen...

I also put Six green leds in a row in small holes. Very simple and awesome look. However, still wish to improve the lightning for the temp ctrl panel... I have a couple of ultraviolet blue leds towards the whole front dash, that is crowning the whole black front surfaces with bluish glow.

On doors you need 2k resistors if you use the ctrl voltage and do not add supply voltage, otherwise they draw too much power and confuse the window ctrl pcb's. Leds are then dim, but in total darkness quite ok.

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

ooooooh, ultraviolet blue leds, I wish I can get my hands on some of that, and thanks for the tip.

Wiking

UV leds not in local el store, here at least. Bougt some key chains with the leds, got even cheaper. One has to play before installation to find proper location, windshield should not give nasty reflections...

Door leds: [Sorry, same head, winter/summer, why cannot replace? ]

I now think the led resistors must have been 4kOhm resistors, otherwise the rear door pcb's do not work [longer wiring voltage loss?]. If the leds draw more than some 20 milliamps from the driver door pcb, the system 'sinks' and rear window switches will not work. With 4k+led it was something like 2-3milliamps X three doors =six leds.

Btw, those numbers are as reliable as wiking sagas... but I suppose u get the pic. Hereby you can circumvent putting supply wires which are nonexistent as all door supply is via the driver pcb. (of course the motors get when activated= but unusable for continuous leds)