1) I have asked a couple people before (mechanic and dealership) what is the difference between the different injectors used for Maxima. Everywhere I go it lists different color dot injectors. What is up with this?

2) How do I know which color injector dots I have without removing the injectors? I would like to order the injectors online and I don't want too much down time since this is my daily driver.

3) Are the injectors interchangeable or are they different?

4)For anyone that has changed the injectors themselves how much time did it take you? I am estimating that I could do it on a day off.

Sorry for so many questions. I hope they aren't repetitive.

By the way my car is a 92 Maxima GXE automatic with a vg30e. I have 2 injectors that aren't working (ouch!).

 

2,3,4 -I suppose detailed answers can be found in the stickies?

5 -Whats the symptom? No click?

 

resistance is the difference
when you pull the harness the dot is on the connector part of the injector bosch has supperseeded both the black and the blue dot to one part number, but I don't remember if the blue replaces the black or the black replaces the blue
there's a writeup in the stickies on doing them I believe

Whatever you do don't buy rebuilts, they have a very high failure rate.

I sell the injectors at a very competitive price.

 

- overseas also? visa?
- I have some unprintable words for bosch products overall [plugs]. The injectors are ok, I suppose... Are there other options?

 

I'll ship overseas too,
Bosch is actually based here in illinois for their North american division.
but you first posting does ring true (prior to editing).
nobody else makes the injectors. only bosch actually MANUFACTURES them.

 

Edited THE bosch -feelings off. Not really necessary... Many times feelings rush before wisdom.

Are the originals also made by Bosch? Cannot imagine nissan making 'em...

 

yup, the originals were made by bosch too.

 

I have a question too ... What gaskets are required when doing rail with injectors re-placement?
I want to order 'em b4 to start

 

upper plenum should be all that's needed.

 

I was a kid and papa got a real car, that was sixties. Rover A60 model -52. One could drive 50km before it died. Repair: open trunk, hit the fuelpump there with a screwdriver and get next 50km's...

Then came the better Rover A75 model. It had a switch on the dash. When u car died, just flip the switch, off u go. That was the Rover design team solution: 2nd fuelpump kicked in...

Happened to read a car magazine 1999, Rover test drive: Interesting note - car died, had to be taken to service station...

Reason: fuelpump.

Will they ever learn? When u read Rover testdrives, look carefully... Btw. Hopefully no more Rover design teamers work for nasa.


As a kid i had mini. Now I've Got MAXI.

 

Thanks guys. I didn't find anything I was looking for in the stickies. I also couldn't get a straight answer from anyone around here.

I haven't actually diagnosed the injectors persay. I am new to this fuel injection thing. The car was running rough and I checked each cylinder for spark. They all passed. I then checked each cylinder by unplugging one spark plug lead at a time and cylinders 1 and 2 are both dead. They didn't affect the idle at all. Since it wasn't spark--it was the injectors. I tried running an injector cleaner through them and it worked on one for a little while and then it was back to running rough again. The power is gone also. I bet I have the only 4 cylinder maxima ever!

 

Hardly, I had a 3 cylinder Maxima

 

"I also couldn't get a straight answer from anyone around here."
- But the info floats aroun there. Have not changed injectors, will -not- comb through now, still seen it some where there here. No real problem, just dig in.


My direct question is still on: 5 -Whats the symptom? No click?
"I also couldn't get a straight answer from *** around ***."