Going to replace my clutch pretty soon, most likely next month. What else should I replace since I am going to be dropping out the tranny? Should I replace the rear main seal since I am at it already? Anyone who has done it, I would love some feedback.

 

Get the flywheel re-surfaced. Should cost 20$-30$ and should be done any time the tranny is out of the car.

 

Never heard of such, have changed 'some' clutches... Where could one get such surface done adequately, causing no problems?



--->Replace whole assy with bearing, all possible seals (carefully check you get the right ones). Check axle rubber boots for craks, change them anyway. Use synthetic oli in gbox

 

Some machine shops that re-surface brake rotors might have the equipment to re-surface the flywheel. As a matter ot fact, when I use to work at PepBoys we had a flywheel re-surfacing machine so don't over look the common places.

Parts I would change
-rear main seal
-pilot bearing
-through-out bearing
-axles seals
-You can aslo consider changing the gear oil

Mike

 

U must mean machining e.g. grinding the whole surface level? No problim with that... Typically not necessary, not too much sand there wearing the surface.

Brakes are quite often worn, but actually grooves (be it machined or worn) just expand the surface area. I know I touch here a taboo, but not really necessary to machine, I have never done on my 2million miles... well it LOOKS better (dont care, theyre ugly anyways), and traction better AT FIRST. But 'after some' miles you are on exact same point, but $omewhat poorer...

 

Exactly, grinding the surface level or clutch disc to flywheel contact area. Don't worry I've touch a few taboos in the past. Each vehicle is different, and as a mechanic or a serious DIY's you know what you're looking for and what will work. As much as everyone preach about using a torque wrench for everthing, I've said in the industry a torque wrench is rarely used. Mechanics just don't have time to break out a torque wrench for every single fastener.

Anyways, let me ask you this. On your high mileage car you said you've never done a re-surface, that I'm not argueing because I know it's possible. My only question, is your high mileage car highway or city mileage miles? My guess it's highway. Can you imagine what your rotor or flywheel might look like on a high mileage vehicle that constanly being driven in the city?

Even though a flywheel is not subjected to dirt and dust like a brake rotor, they do develope hard heat spots. Especially on a vehicle that's driven in the city. He originally ask what are common items to change when doing a clutch job, and even though I know each job might vary I figured I'll suggest getting the flywheel re-surface

 

Your right. And knowing whats happening under there, I use the clutch as it should be used. 'Ladies spoil' it with too soft change, hanging foot on pedal...
Machining is ok, on demand, not default. Still I've never found that necessary...

I would replace badly burnt flywheel altogether, plenty good ones in scrapyards.

The torque: humans tend to be quite skillful in learning. I bet those whose daily job is to work on bolts, can handtighten as well as most of us with a precision tool. Still engine head bolts need a tool, sequence observation...

Down there I questioned the cam belt tightening procedure on this forum, waiting still for somebody to answer: in the end of your 60k limit, the belt is slack hanging. So whats the nitpicking of the absolute tightness of new belt? More important is to retighten it periodically, VG spring load is a good average: I made a hole to cover to loosen/tighten it periodically. I bet my belt is 80% time better off than the "righteous" belts.

 

Even though I'm enjoying our conversation, we're starting to go off topic from the original post and if the administrators of this forum see fit to move/delete certain post so be it. But to answer your question here goes.

All the cars I've owned I've been lucky to have a timing chain instead of a belt, but my wifes Civic has a belt. The Civic was purchase new and I have yet to change the timing belt at the "suggested" 60K miles and it's pushing 96K right now. Periodically I've checked the inside and outside of the belt and in my opinion it looks good, so for me there's no need to changed the timing belt in "our" Civic. I'm well aware of what can happen it the belts breaks, I'm well aware that other timing belts have broken before the 60K mark, but for "me" I see no need to change "my" timing belt on the Civic.

 

Mike.. change that sucker... the manual recommends 60k, but usually I let them go 90k on a Honda.. much more than that and they start snapping.. My dad's went in his civi at 105k and left us stranded in the middle of the highyway 300 miles from home... fortunately no engine damage (VERY VERY rare on a Honda not to bend a valve!), but we were okay. got it towed to a shop, had new belt put on and drove it home.

back to the subject at hand.. it's all been said already.
1. replace rear main seal. you'll need the oil pan lip seal, rear main seal, and the paper gasket that goes behind the bracket holding the seal to the block. your dealer will know what these are.
2. axle seals.
3. resurface flywheel. If you don't, it's an easy and quick way to get horrible clutch chatter on your brand new clutch.
4. if the gear oil is more than a year old, change it as well. if it's under 15k miles, just drain it into a clean pan and then pour it back into the engine.