Talked w/ a Nissan Tech today (VTC related)
02-28-2005, 07:16 PM
#41
Originally Posted by DigitalDashMax
Dam it that just makes me want to fix them all the more! 
I hope that after spending all this time/money that I don't end up waisting it and they blow again or even worse my little fix-it idea for the gallies don't blow my engine!
Jeff - my reasoning against this idea sort of comes from the same thought that gave me the idea. I remember reading about someone's heart arteries being clogged and they fixed it by performing an "Angioplasty". (they stick a baloon in there inflate it and it loosens what's blocking the artery and in this case my wire brush would be my baloon). The only drawback is that when they loosen whats blocking the artery it can sometimes get stuck in smaller arteries causing a blockage (stroke). I'm sure that changing the oil and filter will help that not from happening but I just don't want any of that hard crap clogging another oil channel and blowing the engine.
I hope that after spending all this time/money that I don't end up waisting it and they blow again or even worse my little fix-it idea for the gallies don't blow my engine! Jeff - my reasoning against this idea sort of comes from the same thought that gave me the idea. I remember reading about someone's heart arteries being clogged and they fixed it by performing an "Angioplasty". (they stick a baloon in there inflate it and it loosens what's blocking the artery and in this case my wire brush would be my baloon). The only drawback is that when they loosen whats blocking the artery it can sometimes get stuck in smaller arteries causing a blockage (stroke). I'm sure that changing the oil and filter will help that not from happening but I just don't want any of that hard crap clogging another oil channel and blowing the engine.
03-01-2005, 03:29 PM
#42
Wow Aaron, sorry to hear that. I wonder what went wrong. Is it the basic tick thats present up to when the VTC's turn on? just wanted to make sure its not lifters or chain tensioner....... As long as a line is scribed on the body, then they cannot be assembled wrong.
I replaced the two upper chain tensioners when I did mine. I was lucky to have diagnosed a bad one before doing the whole job.
Jeff, my internals looked flawless I'm glad to say
. I feel pretty confident. Mobil 1 all the way 
.
I replaced the two upper chain tensioners when I did mine. I was lucky to have diagnosed a bad one before doing the whole job.
Jeff, my internals looked flawless I'm glad to say
. I feel pretty confident. Mobil 1 all the way .
03-01-2005, 03:31 PM
#43
Originally Posted by DigitalDashMax
So from what I read here is the conclusion that unless you remove the heads and clean the oil gallies your 95% assured that your VTC's will fail again within 20,000k's? I'm all for rebuilding the VTC's but not if I need to dismanlte the engine for the fix to stick.
Thats definitly not true. Or at least I'll let you know in another 15k miles
Very few unsucessful rebuilts were reported. Hey maybe someone should make a sticky-poll on this subject.
03-01-2005, 03:36 PM
#44
I know how you feel. But I believe these gallies are about the smallest in the engine.
Originally Posted by DigitalDashMax
Dam it that just makes me want to fix them all the more! I hope that after spending all this time/money that I don't end up waisting it and they blow again or even worse my little fix-it idea for the gallies don't blow my engine!
Jeff - my reasoning against this idea sort of comes from the same thought that gave me the idea. I remember reading about someone's heart arteries being clogged and they fixed it by performing an "Angioplasty". (they stick a baloon in there inflate it and it loosens what's blocking the artery and in this case my wire brush would be my baloon). The only drawback is that when they loosen whats blocking the artery it can sometimes get stuck in smaller arteries causing a blockage (stroke). I'm sure that changing the oil and filter will help that not from happening but I just don't want any of that hard crap clogging another oil channel and blowing the engine.
I hope that after spending all this time/money that I don't end up waisting it and they blow again or even worse my little fix-it idea for the gallies don't blow my engine! Jeff - my reasoning against this idea sort of comes from the same thought that gave me the idea. I remember reading about someone's heart arteries being clogged and they fixed it by performing an "Angioplasty". (they stick a baloon in there inflate it and it loosens what's blocking the artery and in this case my wire brush would be my baloon). The only drawback is that when they loosen whats blocking the artery it can sometimes get stuck in smaller arteries causing a blockage (stroke). I'm sure that changing the oil and filter will help that not from happening but I just don't want any of that hard crap clogging another oil channel and blowing the engine.
03-02-2005, 10:21 AM
#45
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Wow Aaron, sorry to hear that. I wonder what went wrong. Is it the basic tick thats present up to when the VTC's turn on? just wanted to make sure its not lifters or chain tensioner....... As long as a line is scribed on the body, then they cannot be assembled wrong.
I replaced the two upper chain tensioners when I did mine. I was lucky to have diagnosed a bad one before doing the whole job.
Jeff, my internals looked flawless I'm glad to say . I feel pretty confident. Mobil 1 all the way .
I replaced the two upper chain tensioners when I did mine. I was lucky to have diagnosed a bad one before doing the whole job.
Jeff, my internals looked flawless I'm glad to say
. I feel pretty confident. Mobil 1 all the way .
03-02-2005, 12:18 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I am sure it's a VTC tick b/c when I ground it, it's quiet. It does suck!
Remember that the VTC's have to be on (grounded) for oil to flow through the device. As long as your gallies are not fully plugged I would try running either motor flush or a whole can of seafoam and let it idle for like 7-10min. and then do an oil change (don't drive the car ofcourse). I think its worth a 10$ try.
I'm annoyed that I removed my VTC on/off switch, since I ocasionally run a motor flush and want the VTC's to be on to also get flushed.
edit: and with a switch on the VTC's you can turn them on/off and cycle them, that will give pressure a chance to build (breifly ofcouse) against the assembly and create some turbulance.
03-04-2005, 06:16 PM
#47
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Hey Aaron, have you ever tried a motor flush on your engine?
Remember that the VTC's have to be on (grounded) for oil to flow through the device. As long as your gallies are not fully plugged I would try running either motor flush or a whole can of seafoam and let it idle for like 7-10min. and then do an oil change (don't drive the car ofcourse). I think its worth a 10$ try.
I'm annoyed that I removed my VTC on/off switch, since I ocasionally run a motor flush and want the VTC's to be on to also get flushed.
edit: and with a switch on the VTC's you can turn them on/off and cycle them, that will give pressure a chance to build (breifly ofcouse) against the assembly and create some turbulance.
Remember that the VTC's have to be on (grounded) for oil to flow through the device. As long as your gallies are not fully plugged I would try running either motor flush or a whole can of seafoam and let it idle for like 7-10min. and then do an oil change (don't drive the car ofcourse). I think its worth a 10$ try.
I'm annoyed that I removed my VTC on/off switch, since I ocasionally run a motor flush and want the VTC's to be on to also get flushed.
edit: and with a switch on the VTC's you can turn them on/off and cycle them, that will give pressure a chance to build (breifly ofcouse) against the assembly and create some turbulance.
03-04-2005, 08:45 PM
#48
Well one possibility is that when you bought the vtc springs they gave you an old batch, so the spring steel lost some of its spring constant after getting heated in the engine. It would be interesting to measure the spring constant of your original springs and compare it to whats in the car now, and then to another set of springs either from a fresh rebuild kit (or even from a complete new assembly).
Did you buy the spring as apart of the rebuild kit?, I'm assuming you did, but thought I'd ask anyway.
..........Could rebuilt vtc failure have to do with some retard working in a nissan warehouse somewhere, trying to make an extra buck passing off old springs for new ones...............
Did you buy the spring as apart of the rebuild kit?, I'm assuming you did, but thought I'd ask anyway.
..........Could rebuilt vtc failure have to do with some retard working in a nissan warehouse somewhere, trying to make an extra buck passing off old springs for new ones...............
03-05-2005, 08:21 AM
#49
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Well one possibility is that when you bought the vtc springs they gave you an old batch, so the spring steel lost some of its spring constant after getting heated in the engine. It would be interesting to measure the spring constant of your original springs and compare it to whats in the car now, and then to another set of springs either from a fresh rebuild kit (or even from a complete new assembly).
Did you buy the spring as apart of the rebuild kit?, I'm assuming you did, but thought I'd ask anyway.
..........Could rebuilt vtc failure have to do with some retard working in a nissan warehouse somewhere, trying to make an extra buck passing off old springs for new ones...............
Did you buy the spring as apart of the rebuild kit?, I'm assuming you did, but thought I'd ask anyway.
..........Could rebuilt vtc failure have to do with some retard working in a nissan warehouse somewhere, trying to make an extra buck passing off old springs for new ones...............
So it's possible, I got a bad spring rebuild kit. Or it might be possible that oil didn't get to the VTCs nearly fast enough, caused them to heat up quickly and eventually fail after only 1K miles. My oil passages might be severely clogged. In fact, I am guessing they are. B/c if I let my car sit for more than 15 hours, I got to crank it up and I hear a loud ticking sound at startup for only a fraction of a second. So, oil is not making it to the top of the motor fast enough. It could be due to my clogged gallies. Who knows? But I don't think I will attempt this rebuild again. The next time I go into my motor, I will have to remove my heads and replace them right. Might as well do a valve job and port work to the heads and fix one broken stud that I couldn't fix myself (EZ out snapped inside head).
03-05-2005, 04:36 PM
#50
Wow, thats funny, I too had two different packages of rebuild kits, one old looking and one new. I asked the parts guy if he could find another new looking box, but that was all they had.
My engine also has a 1 sec clatter at startup, that usually depends a bit on the oil filter and its ability to hold the oil with its antidrain back valve. Especially when its cold out.
The spring height is something easy to notice, but its not much ( maybe 5mm). Also the guage of the spring is greater on the new ones.
Good luck.
My engine also has a 1 sec clatter at startup, that usually depends a bit on the oil filter and its ability to hold the oil with its antidrain back valve. Especially when its cold out.
The spring height is something easy to notice, but its not much ( maybe 5mm). Also the guage of the spring is greater on the new ones.
Good luck.
03-05-2005, 07:12 PM
#51
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Wow, thats funny, I too had two different packages of rebuild kits, one old looking and one new. I asked the parts guy if he could find another new looking box, but that was all they had.
My engine also has a 1 sec clatter at startup, that usually depends a bit on the oil filter and its ability to hold the oil with its antidrain back valve. Especially when its cold out.
The spring height is something easy to notice, but its not much ( maybe 5mm). Also the guage of the spring is greater on the new ones.
Good luck.
My engine also has a 1 sec clatter at startup, that usually depends a bit on the oil filter and its ability to hold the oil with its antidrain back valve. Especially when its cold out.
The spring height is something easy to notice, but its not much ( maybe 5mm). Also the guage of the spring is greater on the new ones.
Good luck.
03-10-2005, 02:09 PM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 123
Well a new development today. Last night I disconected the ground wire from the VTC's just to see how loud the clacking has gotten and you know what, no clack! I started up the motor this morning (by the way its -14 C out this moring) and still no clack. I really don't know what happened. When I got the car it was already gounded and I had just assumed that the guy b4 me had done so b/c they were makin noise but the moron probably just did it /bc he read about it. Anyhow this sort of make me feel alot better as the only thing that I plan on doing now is removing them when I change the valve cover gasket and cleaning the oil gallies b4 they start to fail.
03-11-2005, 08:55 AM
#53
Originally Posted by DigitalDashMax
Well a new development today. Last night I disconected the ground wire from the VTC's just to see how loud the clacking has gotten and you know what, no clack! I started up the motor this morning (by the way its -14 C out this moring) and still no clack. I really don't know what happened. When I got the car it was already gounded and I had just assumed that the guy b4 me had done so b/c they were makin noise but the moron probably just did it /bc he read about it. Anyhow this sort of make me feel alot better as the only thing that I plan on doing now is removing them when I change the valve cover gasket and cleaning the oil gallies b4 they start to fail.
10-04-2005, 06:48 PM
#55
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11
Got something a lot better to see VTC affect than below diagram (which was from a different engine): A dyno report from a 3rd Gen SE w/VTC on vs. grounded:
http://www.4dsc.com/discussion/messages/73312.shtml
An important thing to note is that with the VTC grounded the timing is adjusted for LOW-END TORQUE, so that, in this case, the negative affect doesn't kick in until around 4800 RPM, with about 10 ft/lb loss at 5000 and 15 at 6000. (So, in below diagram the TOP curve would be the closest to the one w/the VTC grounded).
My question is: what is the real-world result of this dyno sheet (thinking of getting a 3rd-gen Max but the VTC issue scared me so I'm trying to get as much info as possible)? With fairly aggressive driving (but NOT drag-racing) what are the shift points, approximately? (If they are before 5000 RPM it appears that you would not notice any performance loss from a disabled VTC until 5th gear.)
In 5th, about how fast are you going at 5000 and 6000 RPM (w/working VTC)?
(First post. Found a VTC thread with google. With search off (!), and the 15 post requirement before you can start a thread (!), this place is frustratingly un-useful, since I'm sure there is a lot of knowledgeable people on here whose brain I can't pick, and good stuff buried in the archives that I can't find.
. At least I found a thread I can post something relevant on.)
http://www.4dsc.com/discussion/messages/73312.shtml
An important thing to note is that with the VTC grounded the timing is adjusted for LOW-END TORQUE, so that, in this case, the negative affect doesn't kick in until around 4800 RPM, with about 10 ft/lb loss at 5000 and 15 at 6000. (So, in below diagram the TOP curve would be the closest to the one w/the VTC grounded).
My question is: what is the real-world result of this dyno sheet (thinking of getting a 3rd-gen Max but the VTC issue scared me so I'm trying to get as much info as possible)? With fairly aggressive driving (but NOT drag-racing) what are the shift points, approximately? (If they are before 5000 RPM it appears that you would not notice any performance loss from a disabled VTC until 5th gear.)
In 5th, about how fast are you going at 5000 and 6000 RPM (w/working VTC)?
(First post. Found a VTC thread with google. With search off (!), and the 15 post requirement before you can start a thread (!), this place is frustratingly un-useful, since I'm sure there is a lot of knowledgeable people on here whose brain I can't pick, and good stuff buried in the archives that I can't find.
. At least I found a thread I can post something relevant on.)
Originally Posted by Loe max
10-04-2005, 07:35 PM
#56
Originally Posted by tman
Got something a lot better to see VTC affect than below diagram (which was from a different engine): A dyno report from a 3rd Gen SE w/VTC on vs. grounded:
http://www.4dsc.com/discussion/messages/73312.shtml
An important thing to note is that with the VTC grounded the timing is adjusted for LOW-END TORQUE, so that, in this case, the negative affect doesn't kick in until around 4800 RPM, with about 10 ft/lb loss at 5000 and 15 at 6000. (So, in below diagram the TOP curve would be the closest to the one w/the VTC grounded).
My question is: what is the real-world result of this dyno sheet (thinking of getting a 3rd-gen Max but the VTC issue scared me so I'm trying to get as much info as possible)? With fairly aggressive driving (but NOT drag-racing) what are the shift points, approximately? (If they are before 5000 RPM it appears that you would not notice any performance loss from a disabled VTC until 5th gear.)
In 5th, about how fast are you going at 5000 and 6000 RPM (w/working VTC)?
(First post. Found a VTC thread with google. With search off (!), and the 15 post requirement before you can start a thread (!), this place is frustratingly un-useful, since I'm sure there is a lot of knowledgeable people on here whose brain I can't pick, and good stuff buried in the archives that I can't find. . At least I found a thread I can post something relevant on.)
http://www.4dsc.com/discussion/messages/73312.shtml
An important thing to note is that with the VTC grounded the timing is adjusted for LOW-END TORQUE, so that, in this case, the negative affect doesn't kick in until around 4800 RPM, with about 10 ft/lb loss at 5000 and 15 at 6000. (So, in below diagram the TOP curve would be the closest to the one w/the VTC grounded).
My question is: what is the real-world result of this dyno sheet (thinking of getting a 3rd-gen Max but the VTC issue scared me so I'm trying to get as much info as possible)? With fairly aggressive driving (but NOT drag-racing) what are the shift points, approximately? (If they are before 5000 RPM it appears that you would not notice any performance loss from a disabled VTC until 5th gear.)
In 5th, about how fast are you going at 5000 and 6000 RPM (w/working VTC)?
(First post. Found a VTC thread with google. With search off (!), and the 15 post requirement before you can start a thread (!), this place is frustratingly un-useful, since I'm sure there is a lot of knowledgeable people on here whose brain I can't pick, and good stuff buried in the archives that I can't find.
. At least I found a thread I can post something relevant on.)Dude, you broke the first rule of 4dsc.com: we don't talk about 4dsc.com on the org.
10-05-2005, 06:21 AM
#60
heh.. welcome to the site..
rule #1. we try to leave 4dsc out of the picture here. too many idiots on this board and those of us that post on the other one like our quiet little corner.
to answer your question, unless you you shift above 5000rpm on a regular basis (which is almost never for normal people), then you will see zero difference in daily driving.
the gearing on these cars is pretty tall. Redline in 2nd gear is around 62mph. by the time you hit 5000rpm on this engine in 5th gear, you're going well over 100mph- (at 5000rpm in 3rd gear, you're doing around 75mph or so..) so it's not goign to matter to 90% of the population.
the only time it would really matter in daily driving is when you're merging on an on ramp and running out 1st and 2nd gears. you'll hit 5000rpm in 2nd gear right about 50mph. even at that point you can generally shift to 3rd gear and still pull hard enough to get up to speed safely. It's still WAY faster than a Metro or Festiva in any gear!! So it's safe to say you won't have a problem with lack of power for any real world driving.
rule #1. we try to leave 4dsc out of the picture here. too many idiots on this board and those of us that post on the other one like our quiet little corner.
to answer your question, unless you you shift above 5000rpm on a regular basis (which is almost never for normal people), then you will see zero difference in daily driving.
the gearing on these cars is pretty tall. Redline in 2nd gear is around 62mph. by the time you hit 5000rpm on this engine in 5th gear, you're going well over 100mph- (at 5000rpm in 3rd gear, you're doing around 75mph or so..) so it's not goign to matter to 90% of the population.
the only time it would really matter in daily driving is when you're merging on an on ramp and running out 1st and 2nd gears. you'll hit 5000rpm in 2nd gear right about 50mph. even at that point you can generally shift to 3rd gear and still pull hard enough to get up to speed safely. It's still WAY faster than a Metro or Festiva in any gear!! So it's safe to say you won't have a problem with lack of power for any real world driving.
10-05-2005, 06:47 AM
#61
The one problem I had with grounding my VTCs was the idle. On my previous engine, the VTCs would clack almost all of the time and grounding them did make them quiet. However, my idle struggled to maintain a balance. Mostly the car would die when I pushed in the clutch, like at a stop sign or a red light.
I just put them back and dealt with the clacking.
I just put them back and dealt with the clacking.
10-05-2005, 07:32 AM
#62
Give the car about a day to adjust and the IACV will learn to run the engine just fine at idle wih them grounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
10-05-2005, 11:17 AM
#65
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
My biggest issue before i grounded mine was a severe lack of power until about 3500 rpm,then it took off like a bullet....after i grounded them the low end power returned...
10-05-2005, 11:29 AM
#66
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
So your sayin there is a performance loss with the VTC's clacking?
From what i have read here and elsewhere the 94 ve's vtc's were not supposed to clack
...
10-05-2005, 11:39 AM
#67
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
No im saying that there was a severe power loss with them ungrounded vs.grounded....Grounding them did not completely eliminate the vtc clacking,it just didn't clack as bad or long with them grounded....
From what i have read here and elsewhere the 94 ve's vtc's were not supposed to clack...
From what i have read here and elsewhere the 94 ve's vtc's were not supposed to clack
...
Anyway, how about good VTC's VS Clacking ones, is what I meant. Performance loss? Since I never owned a VE without them clacking, I wouldn't know.
10-05-2005, 11:51 AM
#68
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Yeah, I heard that too. Maybe they just prolonged VTC life
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Anyway, how about good VTC's VS Clacking ones, is what I meant. Performance loss? Since I never owned a VE without them clacking, I wouldn't know.
10-05-2005, 12:02 PM
#70
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Give the car about a day to adjust and the IACV will learn to run the engine just fine at idle wih them grounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
It's possible that my IACV was kind of gunked up, though. I had to replace it recently (same IACV from my first engine on the JDM).
10-05-2005, 12:24 PM
#72
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
No clack= good......clack= bad.....
10-05-2005, 12:42 PM
#73
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
From what I understood in other threads, there isn't any powerloss with clacking VTCs. Please correct me if Im wrong, but the only bad thing about them is the noise.
I would like Matt or Jeff to chime in on this issue and maybe shed some light on it....
10-05-2005, 01:48 PM
#74
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11
Thanks for the info. Looks like I may be back to looking for a 92-4 SE. I assume that even with the VTC grounded there is still more high-end torque than a VG engine???
Sorry about breaking the 'rule'. Who knew? Maybe if I could use the SEARCH FUNCTION I wouldn't have had to.
Interested in the follow-up about noisy VTCs (are noisy ones bad?). Is there any way to know (besides a dyno or "feel") when they are not working? (I'm guessing it may be a gradual thing and at some point when they sound like a diesel they are no longer doing anything.)
fishy??
Sorry about breaking the 'rule'. Who knew? Maybe if I could use the SEARCH FUNCTION I wouldn't have had to.
Interested in the follow-up about noisy VTCs (are noisy ones bad?). Is there any way to know (besides a dyno or "feel") when they are not working? (I'm guessing it may be a gradual thing and at some point when they sound like a diesel they are no longer doing anything.)
fishy??
10-05-2005, 01:59 PM
#75
Originally Posted by tman
Who knew? Maybe if I could use the SEARCH FUNCTION I wouldn't have had to.
fishy??
fishy??
PS. To get your posts up, ***** the Off topic board
10-05-2005, 01:59 PM
#76
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Give the car about a day to adjust and the IACV will learn to run the engine just fine at idle wih them grounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
after leaving mine grounded for so long, mine had a problem running when them UNgrounded.
that was kind of a foriegn concept when I grounded mine. I did so much to try and figure out what was wrong with my idle. Drove it around for a few days and perfecto! I think it was you, Matt, who helped me figure out that one lol.Then I put them on a switch and I could switch back and forth, grounded there would be a small stumber here and there idling with AC off, but nothing too bad, you know the drill.
10-05-2005, 02:00 PM
#77
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Hmm, I guess the idling problem is why the VTC default is in the high rpm range.
doesn't make too much sense but hey it works so I'm not going to mess with it
10-05-2005, 02:09 PM
#78
Originally Posted by tman
Thanks for the info. Looks like I may be back to looking for a 92-4 SE. I assume that even with the VTC grounded there is still more high-end torque than a VG engine???
Sorry about breaking the 'rule'. Who knew? Maybe if I could use the SEARCH FUNCTION I wouldn't have had to.
Interested in the follow-up about noisy VTCs (are noisy ones bad?). Is there any way to know (besides a dyno or "feel") when they are not working? (I'm guessing it may be a gradual thing and at some point when they sound like a diesel they are no longer doing anything.)
fishy??
Sorry about breaking the 'rule'. Who knew? Maybe if I could use the SEARCH FUNCTION I wouldn't have had to.
Interested in the follow-up about noisy VTCs (are noisy ones bad?). Is there any way to know (besides a dyno or "feel") when they are not working? (I'm guessing it may be a gradual thing and at some point when they sound like a diesel they are no longer doing anything.)
fishy??
I have a good idea on what is actually making the sound, and if I am right it could also explain some top end powerloss or why people say the engine feels much stronger once new springs are installed. I can't even begin to explain it on here though. Maybe if you have a VTC assembly at your desk lol. Or I might just take another one apart and take pics and we can have an uber technical discussion or something about it lol.
Eitherway VTC and fuel tank work are at the top of my list of things to run the hell away from with these cars lol.
10-05-2005, 04:09 PM
#79
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Originally Posted by MrGone
Maybe if you have a VTC assembly at your desk lol. Or I might just take another one apart and take pics and we can have an uber technical discussion or something about it lol.
Has that even been done yet? Maybe we can also figure out why the idling problem is the VTC default in the high rpm range like Jeff said, since the VTCs are only suppose to work in the low.
10-05-2005, 05:06 PM
#80
I was always thinking that the loss of spring tension that causes the clacking was actually causing the sprocket to change tension on the chain as the cam lobes came around and that it would also cause a "stalling" of the cam for a quick period which could cause a power loss..??? Your thoughts?