It just started doin this resently. I have a 92se 5-speed and when I shift to 2nd and 3rd my sh**t starts to stall really bad to the point of shutting off. And the other thing is the tapping noise it's really loud now and constent. I think there the vtc's, but not sure. I got this car last oct for $700 and has 174,000 miles. When I bought the car there was minor tapping you just barly heard it. My question is what can I do to resolve this? Is my engine goin? Or should I give up and get ride of the car. Help me out guys.. I used to have a vg 90se and don't know to much about ve's.

 

They say that grounding VTC u get the noise off. Lose 0-15hp.

Car needs tuneup? Basic; plugs & filters.

Check u sensors, maybe MAF bad?

Coil packs going, injectors? Clean and lacquer coilpakcs, maybe get electrical leaks out.

Check what can be done:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14

 

The stalling subject has been gone over at great length.

The most common cause of stalling and bucking with the VE30DE engine are coil packs.

Other possibilities are faults in the following: fuel related (fuel filter or injectors), mass air flow sensor, cam position sensor, throttle position sensor, o2 sensor and ECU.

As for the noise, it could either be your VTCs or you have broken exhaust manifold studs. I would lean toward VTCs. Both are common, especially considering the mileage you have.

The VTCs will usually be more intermittent. They will clack when cold and later on be quiet. Eventually, they will clack all of the time. It sounds kind of like a diesel engine at this point.

You can ground them, but often times it causes idle fluctuation. When I grounded my original engine, it died frequently when I pushed in the clutch, like at a stop sign.

I would recommend paying $20 to become a donating .org member so you can use the search function. You can get more detailed info about the problems you are having. I have saved probably thousands of dollars in repairs through the help of this site.

 

Is your car overheating? Are you leaking antifreaze? check out the water-pump too while you're at it. Change your gas filter too it's only $10 bucks and put in some good plugs Almost everybody on here swears by NGK's me Too.
I had the platinum plugs in there and switched to the iridium IX but I'm thinking about trying the Bosch Platinum+4 they are 5.99 at Advance Auto.
They have a Lifetime Limited Warrantee. I asked the lady at Advance about the warrantee and she said that if the plug is cracked she will replace them.
Besides that check all the stuff the last guy said. If your timing is too advanced you have to put only 93+ Octane Gas so you might want to turn it back. You can adjust this while the car is running on the Cam-position sensor.
There are two bolts that you have to loosen, adjust timing, tighten, done. The coil packs are really expensive so only replace them when you have to. $65
Eachx6 Check them for cracks if you want to take it further you can do an ohm test on them. You need a multi-meter.
Also try a Can of SeaFoam in your gas tank to Clean out your injectors. I tried the SeaFoam in my intake and it cleaned it out a lot all kinds of black smoke started coming out of the exhaust while i was running the car.

 

Last sound?

*bosch*

 

I also highly reccomend seafoam in the gas tank, im having major issues with my max and i ran sea foam and it regulated my idle, maybe i had clogged injectors, im still not firing on one of my cylinders but unclogged somethign till ican get it to the shop. Oh and what if one of your coil packs is cracked on the outer housing, what does that mean exactly?

 

U may swap coilpack for troubleshooting.

I can think two problems in a coilpack:
1. Primary or secondary winding broken. Measure ohms. www.autozone.com
2. High voltage leaking due to cracks in the heated plastic. Clean, spray insulating lacquer. Or replace.

 

#1 when disconnecting IACV-AAC valve harness connector,does engine speed drop??If yes goto #2

#2 Can you set engine speed at 700+-50 rpm (in N position) by turning idle adjusting screw?
If NO Check for IAS Clogging or Throttle Body Clogging.
You Might want to do this anyway Clean out your Throotle Body.
They sell Spray cleaners for this, I use an Old toothbrush to clean mine out when it get dirty, with the spray of course, and an old t-shirt to wipe off the dirt.

#3 Perform Power balance test
when disconnecting each injector harness connector one at a time is there
any cylinder which does not produce a momentary engine speed drop?
If yes, Goto #4 ( This is Not so Easy to do since the back harnesses are underneath the intake manifold.

#4 Check injector
1. Remove Camshaft Position Sensor from engine
2. Disconnect power transisor harness connector.
3. Turn ignition switch ON (Do not start engine)
4. When rotating camshaft position sensor , does each injector make an operating sound? (click,click,click)

Ok the manual doesn't say anything about cracks. Just to
#5 check ignition spark:
1. Disconnect ignition coil assembly from collector.
2. Connect a known good spark plug to the ignition coil assembly.
3. Place end of spark plug against a suitable ground and crank engine.
4. Check for spark.
If OK Goto #6
#6 Check fuel Pressure
1. Release fuel pressure to zero (you have to disconnect the fuse for the fuel pump while the car is running until the car turns off)
2. Install fuel pressure guage & reconnect fuse
2.5 check fuel pressure.
At idle it should be
approx. 245 kPa (2.5kg/cm2, 36PSI )
A few seconds after ignition switch is turned Off to On:
Approx: 294 kPa (3.0kg/cm2, 43 PSI )
There's a few more but this might help you for now.

 

Thank you!!

 

ive done all, im at the point where i have to check injector, don' know how i feel about doing it myself with limited time and snow always falling, may just bring it to a place now, thanks man