mountainmax

...so I went to turn the piston in on the RBC to replace the pads; one worked fine, the other moved in some and then stopped. It still turns, but it won't retract enough to get the new pads over the rotor. Is the caliper shot? It looks like a rebuilt one is about $85 each. Are there any other options?
Thanks.

Steve

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

Its probably because the brakes will adjust themselves as the brake pads wear out, if you open the bleed nipple and push on the pads and move them out it will let out some fluid and move your brakes out also. The way it works is when your pads start wearing out they move in on their own so that way you, the driver, never has to worry about your brakes feeling all mushy and going to the floor.

mountainmax

... you screw the piston in, per the FSM, when putting in new pads. This design was how they incorporated the parking brake in to the calipers. The problem is the piston won't screw in far enough to clear the new pads; it still turns, it just won't move in any more. The other side worked fine.

Steve

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f59ba.jsp

NismoChi

iTrader: (4)

My passenger side rear caliper leak and i had to get a new one, i got a rebuilt one from autozone and it cost me $59 plus $85 core.
BTW all four of the floating pins froze, i had to use a big hammer to break them lose, so that they can move again.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I need to do my rears
godd thing I have a cheap source for parts

Wiking

Fig. 6: Lubricate the guide pin before installing it

Btw. No need to grow hairs in hands before lubrication...