My Maxima has to crank for about 10 seconds before it starts, every time, unless I'm starting it up again right away, then it only takes about 3 seconds of cranking.

I've recently got new spark plugs (non-platinum...), new air filter, fuel filter, and redid the fuel lines (still got gas smell though).

It cranks quickly, good starter and battery power. Always starts eventually.

The only time it has gotten better (briefly, like 1 -2 days), has been a) after I changed fuel filter and b) after I replaced some fuel injector hoses. Almost like releasing the fuel pressure somehow made it get better for a bit ...

Any ideas ??

 

HOw old is the batt.

You need to check the voltage WHILE cranking, it should be at least 11V.
It could also be your fuel pump, can you hear it prime when you turn the ignition ON (but not cranking). The pump should run for about 2 sec.

Also you should do a fuel pressure test.

 

Points to what Eric said. Smell might be the non burned fuel.

Check out also cam angle sensor. Spark wires/coilpacks?

 

Fuel lines themselves? Corroded and crappy, might explain why new filter worked well for a while until crud clogged it too.

 

I don't think this is it, because my old fuel filter was still ok when I replaced it, and it would have to be REALLY bad to clog the new one in < 2 days.

 

Yeah I think there might be some issue with non-burned fuel.

I've recently replaced the spark plugs (did all tune-up within 1 week), but I just used regular ones, and I noticed on the filter box for the VE it says to use platinum tipped plugs...

All of the coil pacls looked fine except for the one cracked one, which I've already replaced.

I do hear the fuel pump prime very quietly... I have suspicions about it...

But why would releasing fuel pressure make it start well ?? I mean after I replaced some fuel lines, it fired RIGHT up on the first crank, and continued for about 2 days.. then started taking longer and longer.. till now it takes 10 seconds.

 

Those two might have direct relation, indirect relation or maybe none at all. Every time hood is opened, one may touch some problematic wire...

--->Check out also cam angle sensor ...and its groundings plus+ all grounDings...
--->Coilpacks: measure primary & secondary windings, insulate temporarily with wrapping in cloth. And/or clean, spray with insulating lacquer. Test.
--->check out batt voltage

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"But why would releasing fuel pressure make it start well ?? "
- gas bubbles playing in the pump: cavitation. Result is intermittent loss in pumping capacity. Comes and goes without warNing. How this would be possible? ...The pump assy may have internal air leaks. (gas tank vacuum worsens this phenomena =open filler cap)

Related Q.: is the problem the same with full tank AND low fuel?

--->replace pump assy.

 

Yeah the problem has no change on full or empty tank... very consistent.

 

Could this slow starting by chance be that using regular plugs doesn't ignite cold fuel as well as the platinum plugs which are supposed to be used ??

 

Dont believe its the platinum issue. Could still be plugs: does your plug swap time support suspicions on the new plugs? Its not the first time NGK had problems with their products... and they will not answer whatever u complain. Fairly easy to check out. I have platinums which have been working very good.

 

Go get yourself a fuel-pressure guage and a T-piece and plumb that into the fuel line just after the filter and drive around with that fro a few days to collect a decent experience.

I am willing to bet your fuel pressure sits way below about 40psi while the car is difficult to start - typical behavior of a worn pump.......... (or the pump not working well for whatever electrical reason)

 

Thats good way: its cheaper to get that info early, than to pay for towing company.

Problem could also be malfunctioning vacuum controlled pressure regulator and/or its cracked vacuum hose.

 

Have you tried turning on the ignition switch and waiting the few seconds until the fuel pump stops running and then start the car. If the car starts normally, then its a matter of finding the pressure leak.

 

I have tried that, same slow start.

 

I rechecked the new plugs I recently put in, and found all ok except for one plug at the front of the motor had quite a bit of grease built up (this is same one I had started a thread on before because I couldn't extract the old one...), and also the white insulation was burnt quite badly, and this after only 2000 miles... I believe the slow starting and this bad plug are related. What might cause this single plug to be bad ??

 

you should do a compression check on that cylinder to see if its low but you should have a miss if its dead

 

I think your other thread is the answer

 

Haha not this time...

you may sucker me into buying a new fuel injector.. but KS this is NOT!

 

That course of action will not necessarily point to fuel pressure not being the problem - the startup sequence of the fuel-pump is a "timed" event rather than an actual pressure measurement event - so if the pressure manage to reach around 40psi during the 2 seconds of startup prime, then the motor should run - if not you will continue to crank with low fuel pressure until the "engine rotating" electronics detects that fact and once again activate the fuel-pump ..................... all of which ties in with your experiences so far

No way around it - you gonna have to check actual fuel pressure

 

With visual inspection u get only visual facts: the spark actual condition in cylinder is still mystery. The new plugs may be half dead as you buy; the only way is to get !NOW another plug set. Check out for ngk website to verify YOUR plug condition for known causes, impossible to say any thin without pic. Definitely t heres smtg wrong.

2000miles = 20% spark lost.

"I couldn't extract the old one ...bit of grease built up" ---> oil getting into cylinder: Valve oil seal and/or broken piston oil ring. Cooling ? problem. Not your starting problem.

 

if you damaged your engine, that would cause an increase in internal friction which can cause a slow crank.

 

But wouldn't turning the key, then putting it again to run position cause the fuel pump to prime again ?? Thus if I do it a few times it SHOULD fix the problem if it is fuel pressure.. but I have tried this and it too doesnt not work.

 

It cranks fast.

 

It could - or not, depending on exactly what the cause of the problem is. Only answer is to measure pressure

 

Same thing is happening to me. I just had my engine light on and the mechanic told me it was a injector. $620 later and a new injector, the Max is having a difficult time starting. Takes a long time to start. Once it is started, it doesn't have a problems, but if it sits for 10 minutes or more, it will have the same problems. Right after the fix the Max hesitated upon acceleration and <3000 RPM. Then a metal "clank" is heard every so often while driving under 30 mph. The mechanic thinks it could be another injector going wrong (another pre-existing condition prior to the first injector) and his buddy thinks it could be an ignition problems. Could my symptoms be a fuel pressure problem? HELP!!

 

Possibly - and all I can say is "Only answer is to measure pressure"

IMO anybody replacing an injector before measuring and confirming correct fuel pressure is not worthy of the title "mechanic"

 

WOW!!!! I have the exact same problem on my Max. I'm just too lazy to post the problem. Hope it doesn't get worse in time.

 

Hope not fulfilled: it would need evolotion fairytalecometrue for that to happen. Whatever human builds, start to deteroriate immediately = evolotion is poor joke.

Max is a good starter; cold or hot it starts immediately if well tuned. Age does not matter = if well tuned...

 

Cannot agree more .............