sudden drop in gas mileage
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
sudden drop in gas mileage
i usually get about 16-19 mpg 100% city driving. My car is running good and everything to tune-up has been done within the last year. My last tank I got 13mpg....and I figured maybe i drove it hard too much. But now that I toped her off with a full tank, I have gone about 25 miles and it is already almost at the 3/4 line. usually when I go 25miles its barely below the F line....anyone help me out on what it could be? car doesn't stutter or have any problems starting or idling...the only thing I could think of is a knock sensor, but would this cause a 3-5mpg decrease? what else could it be?
#4
Originally Posted by blacks92seAuto
how could an air filter drop mileage from 3-5mpg over a few days?
KS problem might be intermittent, as stuck calipers(did u use handbrake?) or whatever...
Filling a tank and/or gauge -measurement style has 10% error margin, how u drive means 50% of your mpg etcetc.
#5
if your air filter gets plugged it does affect your gas mileage.
also where/when you buy your gas has been shown to affect it as well.
the knock sensor by itself will not affect your mileage, it's the need to push the pedal farther to achieve the same power that causes the mileage decrease (my theory).
I'd start by giving the car a thorough looking through to see what if anything is awry.
Brakes move freely?
tires at recommended pressure?
Air filter Clean?
all plugs look good?
all injectors functioning?
alignment?
tires in good condition?
axle boots torn?
I think you get the hint
also where/when you buy your gas has been shown to affect it as well.
the knock sensor by itself will not affect your mileage, it's the need to push the pedal farther to achieve the same power that causes the mileage decrease (my theory).
I'd start by giving the car a thorough looking through to see what if anything is awry.
Brakes move freely?
tires at recommended pressure?
Air filter Clean?
all plugs look good?
all injectors functioning?
alignment?
tires in good condition?
axle boots torn?
I think you get the hint
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
OK, to get the dumb obvious out the way first. I have 17" tires 225/50/17 and the max pressure is 51 PSI...I havent checked them lately but I usually fill them up to 35psi warm...What is the reccommended pressure for best mileage on aftermarket tires? I have remanufactured front calipers, new pads, and new rotors. They should not be sticking at all...all tho I found a small groove on my front right rotor, and I think there is still a lil *** rock inbetween the pad and rotor cause it does squeal when applying the brake.
And after this kid hit me in december I had all wheels realigned. The spark plugs I replaced with NGK plugs from automart maybe 8 months ago, and I got a ngk o2 sensor from him as well.
I did do something stupid when I was cleaning my air filter a few weeks ago, but if it was a problem it should of showed up the last 2 weeks as well. But anyways, I cleaned my air filter with an air pressure tank, AFTER I did this, I found out its not smart to do because its compresed oily air. So would my air filter even tho it looks clean, could it be screwed up? And I fill up with shell Vpower. Once it stops raining Ill pull the spark plugs and check the condition.
And after this kid hit me in december I had all wheels realigned. The spark plugs I replaced with NGK plugs from automart maybe 8 months ago, and I got a ngk o2 sensor from him as well.
I did do something stupid when I was cleaning my air filter a few weeks ago, but if it was a problem it should of showed up the last 2 weeks as well. But anyways, I cleaned my air filter with an air pressure tank, AFTER I did this, I found out its not smart to do because its compresed oily air. So would my air filter even tho it looks clean, could it be screwed up? And I fill up with shell Vpower. Once it stops raining Ill pull the spark plugs and check the condition.
#7
Originally Posted by blacks92seAuto
.....What is the reccommended pressure for best mileage on aftermarket tires?....The spark plugs I replaced with NGK plugs from automart maybe 8 months ago, and I got a ngk o2 sensor from him as well.....my air filter even tho it looks clean, could it be screwed up? ....
- plug wires, cap: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/12
...or then NOT if u have VE.
- disconnected groundings playIng?
- Air filter has no effect but in drop of max power. No problem with press air: still max airflow reduction cuts top pwr and oily paper filter is not best. - Broken filter fibers may have bad effect on MAF hot resistor (dunno really, heard this).
- Yes, pull plugs and check against ngk web page fault chart
- KS. Check ALL other sensors also. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9
#9
Originally Posted by Wiking
- Air filter has no effect but in drop of max power.
Of course I may have misunderstood what you were saying..
#11
Originally Posted by Golden Ice
... in my Riviera, ....Of course I may have misunderstood what you were saying..
- If system works as it should, MAF detects 'how much' air goes to engine. ECU injects fuel based on measured air volume. Always same percentage%, not more, not less.
- ECU does not check filter or its condition.
- Now it really does not matter how the airflow to engine is regulated (Note: when engine warm; O2 in control). Usually regulation is done with throttle. Lets assume throttle is now totally open, and we have adjustable element, today renamed: FILTER. Nobody would know the difference... not ECU, not any body...
Part 2.
The power that injection engine gives out, is directly proportional to air volume. The more restricted intake, the less power. [simplification]. So if FILTER lets less air in, less fuel is injected, less power. So if more air in, more fuel is automatically injected, more power.
Part 3.
Cold engine is different story, then ECU controls by assumption AND Throttle position info. Injected amount is fixed; based on throttle position, not air volume. Now if air volume is half, injection amount is double. Result is blk smoke... On cold engine is no checkup how the burning process went, no feedback to ECU from O2.
I know Riviera is in France, nice beach... Maxima, in my garage.
#12
Originally Posted by Wiking
I know Riviera is in France, nice beach... Maxima, in my garage.
Well, I haven't studied fuel injected engines in depth..I know with my '63 buick riviera (nothing FRENCH about it aside from the name similarity...thankfully nothing more) and my '84 GMC both get lousy gas mileage with dirty air filters (carbed), and my mothers '91 s-10 blazer got worse mileage and ran like crap with a fairly dirty air filter (throttle body injected), so I have to assume there can't be a major difference in the detrimental effects of having a dirty air filter, whether its carbed, TBI, or EFI. the engine doesn't run right with a dirty air filter, one way or another.
I suppose I'm if the air filter is clean anyway..although I can't see it hurting any to put a new one in since the old one got blasted with compressed air, which CAN damage the filter medium and let dirt through that it would have otherwise filtered. A $5 air filter is cheap insurance.
#14
Originally Posted by blacks92seAuto
well i just started workin on pullin the plugs....first one i pulled... looks all brown/orange with a hint of a black...and it smells like fuel.....leaking injector? car does not run rough or anything
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Its a jdm ve motor I put in a year ago. it has 8 month old ngk plat plugs from automart, and it has 8month old o2 sensor....full warpspeed exhaust 1 year old, ASP pulley 6months old, CAI 1 year old, reman front brake calipers, new rotors, pads, new rims/tires, fresh alignment, I have the adv. timing by moving the cam position sensor or whatever....ground kit... last summer I went through ALL of the wire connections, cleaned and reconnected. took me a few hours........I changed the fuel filter 1 year ago...since then I have done maybe 6 treatments of seafoam and run some chevron fuel system cleaner through........exhaust doesnt blow black or anything, and doesnt seem to smell like fuel.......
The only thing I can think of...is I recently had a car alarm/ remote start installed last week, and thats when my mileage dropped....but wtf would it have anything to do with my mileage?
sry was just listing things some of you are asking me.....the front 3 injectors ohm at 10.9 .....I think the knock sensor is ok, it ohm at 562k (562 on 2000k mode I think im right but i have no clue) I dont know what could be the problem...
Last week I did put some Isoheat stuff(absorbs water and moisture from gas tank) and I put in 1 bottle of chevron fuel system cleaner in...both on a fuel tank...could this maybe of eaten my injector seals up or something causing them to leak? I do have an extra fuel line with 6 known working injectors on it...I just dont want to swap it if its not the problem.
The only thing I can think of...is I recently had a car alarm/ remote start installed last week, and thats when my mileage dropped....but wtf would it have anything to do with my mileage?
sry was just listing things some of you are asking me.....the front 3 injectors ohm at 10.9 .....I think the knock sensor is ok, it ohm at 562k (562 on 2000k mode I think im right but i have no clue) I dont know what could be the problem...
Last week I did put some Isoheat stuff(absorbs water and moisture from gas tank) and I put in 1 bottle of chevron fuel system cleaner in...both on a fuel tank...could this maybe of eaten my injector seals up or something causing them to leak? I do have an extra fuel line with 6 known working injectors on it...I just dont want to swap it if its not the problem.
#17
Originally Posted by blacks92seAuto
....Last week I did put some Isoheat stuff(absorbs water and moisture from gas tank) and I put in 1 bottle of chevron fuel system cleaner in...both on a fuel tank...could this maybe of eaten my injector seals up or something causing them to leak? I do have an extra fuel line with 6 known working injectors on it...I just dont want to swap it if its not the problem.
Its important that each injector, coilpack primary/secondary -windings are about equal.
KS may give right reading, still be bad. Only way is to use bypass - and/or (go to stealership and) have it tested with tester while engine running =get actual ECU response and ign timing checked.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Wiking
Filter should have taken off all dirt that possibly was released. Cannot figure anything spoiling six injectors at once. ECU is the ctrl point for all those, that may go bad anytime...
Its important that each injector, coilpack primary/secondary -windings are about equal.
KS may give right reading, still be bad. Only way is to use bypass - and/or (go to stealership and) have it tested with tester while engine running =get actual ECU response and ign timing checked.
Its important that each injector, coilpack primary/secondary -windings are about equal.
KS may give right reading, still be bad. Only way is to use bypass - and/or (go to stealership and) have it tested with tester while engine running =get actual ECU response and ign timing checked.
And what kind of resistor should I look for, I was told that they have different watts, or volts or something is different between kinds of resistors.
I am taking my car to my friend mechanic and he is going to hook it up to his computer and mess around with it, If he doesn't find a leaking injector, or something else wrong, then Im going to throw a resistor in place of my knock sensor to see if that fixes the problem, and if it does it looks like ill be pulling allot of stuff off my car for a little **** sensor.
BTW my gas mileage still sucks...Im at 67 miles on the trip, and gauge is just barely above half a tank....so im guessing im only going to get 150miles on this tank, give or take....I usually get at least 200miles on a full tank before i need to think about refilling...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM
maxima-junky
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
1
10-07-2015 06:13 PM