Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Anyone had any luck with remanufactured VE axles, specificaly for the manual with LSD??? I order 3 different sets from 3 different places (E-bay (interparts), autozone, carquest) and all were exactly the same.
I eventualy bought used VE axles, but what gives... does no one have the proper reman axles? Is my only option to rebuild them myself or take them somewhere to be rebuilt?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I got the right ones from Napa. Eventually...

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I dont see why everyone doesnt go straight through an axle shop

That's all Autozone, Pepboys, Napa, etc do. They just get a 3rd party to do it, and in the process screw up the part #'s and mix them all up. So why not go to the 3rd party yourself and save the mark-up fee from the auto parts place and avoid the hassle? Have them rebuild YOUR axle(s) and you avoid mix-ups

I just got my driver side done last month by the company that does Pepboys axles in the Dallas area. Cost me less than 50 bucks and I got it back within a few hours.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

I bought both of the axles for my SE auto and both were right.

I also got a drivers axle for my SE 5speed recently and it was right.

All of them were right the very first try.

I got mine from Carquest (my uncle works there and cuts me a little break on price).

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I forgot to mention that I dont think I got my axle all the way in. It's leaking at the axle seal, and after all that work getting my tranny case leak-free

I FINALLY got a great alignment, negative camber free... so I really dont wanna have to mess with the axle again since I fear I may get a suck alignment again

garbury

iTrader: (4)

Did you replace that axle seal before you put new axles back in? I know mine were shot when i got them out last week. Rebuilding the axles is actually very easy, if all there is to rebuilding is pulling the boots, cleaning, repacking grease and then putting back on the new boots. If the axles were damaged (worn *****, spindles, etc.) then buy new ones. The only specialty tools you need are a gear puller and snap ring pliers. It costs like 8 bucks for a cv boot kit, and there's two each axle so 32 dollars and about 4 or 5 hours of work tops, and you should be set. Makes me glad I didn't try to buy new ones at Autozone if some of you have problems.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Well my tranny is only about a year old, along with those seals so I didnt see a need to replace that seal when I did the axle.

It just seems like it needs to go in a few more mm or something

garbury

iTrader: (4)

which side? passenger sides meets up with that flange where it bolts in, so there is literally no movement. The drivers side has that ring that needs to click in so it wont pull out. I could still wiggle my drivers axle back and forth a little bit until I bolted the big nut onto the spindle and now it doesn't move at all. I had to tap on the end of the drivers axle with a rubber mallet until it snapped in, so maybe thats where its bad. I greased up the seal pretty good too, so there wouldn't be any leaks.

Thinking and i came up with a theory which is most likely incorrect. When you tightened that big spindle nut, did you torque it with an insane amount of pressure? That extra half turn may have put a little pressure on the drivers axle just separating it from the tranny case the mm or two you speak of. I torqued mine to 200 ft/lbs and it wasn't really that tight of a pull.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

This is the driver side

I've got that ring clicked in... or at least it feels like it - it's definitely not pulling out, but I can wiggle it back and forth a cm or two which is why I dont think it's in all the way. It touches the axle seal.. but I can slide it out maybe a centimeter or two and it doesnt touch the seal anymore, which I presume is what makes it leak when it's like that. And I did torque the axle nut down (200 lbs too)

I didnt hit on the end of the axle when I put it in.. it didnt really cross my mind since I thought for sure I had it in all the way. I guess that's about the only thing I could try though that wont mess up my alignment or require me to pull it back out of the hub. My only concern with that is possibly compressing the joint(s) if I hit too hard

mofoaka

what's the difference between the axles? are VE's axles special because the 5spd has a LSD? or just that you've been receiving the wrong parts and won't fit into the tranny? i'm just wondering. thanks

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You have to tap the axle in the last 2 cm sometimes. Carefully tap it in all the way

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

The difference between the reman and the VE axles is very small. I believe the drivers side was too long but the passanger side, despite being about 1/2" too short also had the seal further out (toward the rotors). When the PS axle was fully inserted and the three bearing screws fully tightened, the metal seal on the axle was atleast 1" from the rubber seal on the transmission.

ghostmax

iTrader: (4)

James and others,

I would say you doublecheck/find the right axle and re-install it. Here's a long story:

I bought one from NAPA and put it in with a new seal. First time I did an axle job and I thought it went well. It leaked here and there but nothing too bad and then later stopped leaking. Then about 5 months later, my speedo started acting screwy and finally stopped working altogether. Just about that same time, I started to hear a low grinding sound. Eventually I took it to Firestone where someone who owned a 2nd gen told me that it was the wrong axle. NAPA and Autozone (and others) didn't stock the right part number. The one they have listed as the 5spd axle is shorter by just a few mm than the one for a VLSD, auto, no ABS. NismoChi said he had the same problem which he fixed by getting an axle for an automatic. I followed his advice, and it went in perfect the first time. I couldn't pull it out like I could the other axle and there were no more leaks. Your tranny might leak enough oil so that it doesn't spill out anymore, but it probably means it's not all the way full.

The speedo/odo stopped working because the speedo gear than turns the sensor is on the same spindle(?) which is held in place by a differential bearing. I put in a new speedo pinion (red plastic part on speed sensor) since mine was totally stripped bare, and my speedo worked for about 10 miles and then it got stripped again.

Since my tranny made a wuhwuhwuh sound in the lower gears and my speedo/odo didn't work, I eventually had to put in a replacement since I didn't want to rebuild my tranny (which still works btw) and worry about them doing the differential gear bearing preload correctly. Check out motorvate.ca for his breakdown on this.

So my advice is check this stuff out before it escalates into something as unnecessary as my situation. From now on, I just replace the boots when they tear.

subs1000w

I got my VE5spd axles from auto zone they were right the 1st time and for $60 each with lifetime warrenty im happy but the drivers one seems to be going bad because im getting the clicking goind around turns somtimes so when i change the trans again im going to have them swap it out