I have a '92 GXE with apparent leak in the AC condernser.

The local shop quoted:
Part Labor
$409.27 $179.96 Condenser
$61.07 $53.99 Receiver/Drier
$89.98 Evac & Recharge
$119.90 2lb R12
$71.98 Leak Check
============================
$986.15 Total

At this point, I am thinking about letting the car go.

But before that, I was wondering if this is something that I maybe able to do. I have done so far:

Struts front and rear
CV joint re-build (both)
front control arms
Y-pipe replacement
blower motor replacement
on top of regular drive belts, fluid changes, and dist rotor and cap stuff.

Does doing this job require ALOT of engine bay dismentling? I backed off of a thermostat replacement because I just couldn't find enough room there.

If I get the blessings of maxima.org, I guess I will give it a shot (found condersers on ebay for less than $100 and receiver/driers for $30ish). I guess I can attempt to replace the parts and then bring the car into a shop to get it charged with R12?

I'd really appreciate some advise. I trust the .org so if you guys think I am going to bite off more than I can chew, I will not attempt this.

By the way, I only have access to jackstands (y-pipe was not fun) or ramps.

 

I want to make a non educated comment: replace only the leaking condenser, cant be too hard (isnt that price for 2hour job?). Do as u said.

Note: Pics! please...then also put up the ticking tingie pic, please.

Now wait for the advice from those who have been there...

 

Seems just a tad expensive for parts (sarcasm). Go buy a adapter kit for $7 at the parts store to convert it to R134a. It is MUCH cheaper than replacing it with R12.

If you know where the leak is, why do you want to do a leak test? A leak test kit costs under $10 at the parts store. It includes the dye and I think some glasses to see the UV fluid.

Evac and recharge? What are they recharging?

 

Pyro- doing the condenser is just a bit more complicated than doing the radiator and the drier is right by it. also as jihnson said retro the thing to r134a which is about $10-$20 a lb (system takes approx 2 lbs). the evac,recharge, and leak check should all be in one charge, we do them around here for $100-$150 sometimes that includes the r134a

wiking- anytime you work on the A/C system you really should replace the drier

johnson- recharging the A/C not the electrical

 

Thanks for all the advise.

One of the things I wanted to ask was. Are there special tools needed?

I have a set of craftsman (snap-on's will have to wait until I win the lottery) socket wrench in 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drive from 6mm to 23mm
1/2" drive torque wrench
Craftsman metric box wrench set
dewalt 1/2" drill driver
Dremmel
bench vise
and whole lot of pliers and wrenches.

I just didn't want to tackle a job and then end up not having a specialty tool...

If I do decide to tackle this, wouldn't I want to replace hoses while I was at it?

 

Drier is what and why is that?

 

Those tools should be sufficient. Replacing hoses will just be another expense. If money is an issue, skip it. A/C hoses do age, but you don't need to replace them unless they're leaking. Replacing A/C components should be straight-forward. Take off the condensor and then mirror that procedure when you put it on. Same thing with drier. Do yourself a favor. Open the hood, locate those parts, plan how you are going to get them out. If you still feel confident it's something you can do, jump right it.

Note: This is assuming all the freon has leaked from your system. Otherwise, have it evacuated. It's not kosher, or legal, to release it into the air.

 

I believe the FSM refers to it as the 'liquid tank'. Drier, or receiver, is the cylindrical shaped container that contains dessicant. Its purpose is analogous to putting rice in your salt shaker. It draws the moisture out. Hence the name 'drier'. Moisture is bad for your A/C. Very bad. Any exposure to the environment can overload the drying ability. Also, retro-fitting to R134A will require different oil. Sometimes the old oil can be trapped in the dessicant, and it's not compatible. Safest thing for your compressor, and pocket, is to change it. It's fairly inexpensive and easily replaced.

 

whoa... they're forgetting something. Anytime you have the system apart you also need to check your orifice tube and make sure it's clean. Especially when there's a leak

 

Thanks. Hmm. Then I guessed that drier is (4.). Personal problem is that I dont put rice in my salt shaker, theres just bag of rice and can of salt... I think I understand but can u pls still repeat the name of the contents... Is the pressure sw linked to this stuff?

The problem with manuals is the inconsistency using part labels: its never enough to know five pet names to a part shown in a diagram, u have to know each 99 used around the globe as texts seldom do match.

 

...orifice tube???

 

it's what changes the pressure in the system. Usually found in line between the condensor and evaporator. I believe ours is located near the firewall. Sometimes they can be found right before the evaporator.

 

let me pull out my ac books. And I'll scan it.

Also, being a mechanic and certified technician for HVAC systems. I recommend that you take it to a shop to be charged. The small bottles are no where near accurate when charging a system. And getting the perfect charge is CRUCIAL!!!! Otherwise you end up with under or over charging. And the effects can be bad either way.

Undercharging- not enough system oil will be picked, and this can cause premature failure of your compressor

Overcharging- too much system oil will be picked up. This can clog certian areas of the system. Especially at the orifice tube.

 

You must live in a dry climate. The rice(or broken crackers) keeps the salt from clumping due to humidity. Yes, #4. And I do believe the pressure switch is mounted at the drier/hose connection. IIRC

 

Yes thank you... do that. FSM is poor on this.

So there's no way DIY, but pay? ...I can figure our pice being 5x...

 

This will also give you an idea what all can happen if the pressures aren't where they need to be.

 

Want to have that pic with better resolution... e-mail, pls.

 

You can do R134a yourself still. There's a bill still in the works that would limit that to certified techs only. That's how R12 is. You cannot buy R12 off the shelves in small cans anymore unless you are certified.

But the problem with getting the small cans. You don't always know exactly how much you're getting. Take a 2oz bottle. You might actually only get around .5-1.5oz out of it. Some actually come with gauges now... it's just a matter of how accurate is it?

 

sent

 

I have original system. What would u guess I have in there (=if mixed, what happens)? How to define? Do u have to empty the system first; if so how? My A/C is working but I can guess the day comes when fillup is needed. Then the only way is to go to a shop?

DIY fillup: Is it just question of amount, or having all bubbles out? I mean cant u just buy 2 bottles -or- is the stuff in a pressurized can or how does it come?

I love this: throwing stupid questions - now thats easy...

 

R134a and R12 is a big no no when it comes to mixing. They will not mix, and creates all sorts of problems. Also, R12 uses a mineral oil to lubricate the pump and system. And will not carry the PAG oil used by R134a... and the reverse being true as well. R134a will not carry the mineral used in R12 systems.

You are not supposed to evacute (empty) the system into the air. you'll have to take it to a shop. There they pull it out with a machine. The refrigerants are one of the reasons why our Ozone is depleting.

As for charging (filling) the system goes. You have to make sure you get the right amount for optimum performance. And the stuff does come in a pressurized can. And that's where a lot of problems come without the proper machine.

Someone tries to put a 2oz can of R134a into a system that is close to proper level. Well only so much will enter the system because of the pressure in the system already. Plus, you also run the risk of overcharging the system.

 

A '93 should have come with R12 stock. Whether that has been changed or not is another question. A sticker should be placed on the radiator support, hood, or fender well when it is retro'd. Doesn't always happen. Next tell-tale sign? The service fittings. They are distinctively different for this reason. You cannot use R134A gauges on R12 fitttings and vice versa(unless you modify the gauges--obviously). They do make cheap ($20) single gauge hoses with a suicide valve (taps directly into the top of the can)to refill R134A on the low side. It's not the most accurate refill, but it'll come really close. Just remember this DIY fix doesn't address oil measurements.
BTW, I'm not sure of the international status of refrigerants. Some of the laws we have on this side of the pond may not apply to you. Or worse, they could be more strict.
The FSM lists refrigerant charging level at 200g.
Hope this helps.

 

Thats a lot for the condenser. I paid 170 canadian for it when i did mine the first time w years ago ( have to repair my ac again this year).

look into the duracool replacement for r-12, no conversion and its a lot cheaper. The downside is that its not as cold but that could save you another 100$.

Replacing these parts is not overly difficult, but I suggest going to a shop to pull the vaccum and see if your system is leaking.

there are many small steps to ensure that the job has been done right, but it is more than doable.

 

first of all, you'll need to figure out where the leakages came from. more than likely, it's your condensor. when it comes to ac, it gets really expensive. before I drove from los angeles, ca to greenville, sc. I was so desperated to get my condensor changed. I didn't have enough time to work on my car nor a vaccum machine at that moment, so I said heck with it. I brought to the shop and donated those guys $250 to swap out condensor and drier. it took them 1.5hrs to do the whole, including vaccum, charge, & oil. let's me tell ya buddy, if you got the time to do the works. do it yourself. I saw the whole thing while I was there, it was such a joke of how easy it was to do the works. I'd felt so stupid for wasting moneys. if you're gonna do the works, get a measuring gauge and measure the low pressure port to be sure you got no pressure left before dissembling the condensor. no need to remove too many objects to get your condensor out, just push the radiator 2+" to back and the consendor should pops right out. put it back on is just the opposite. however, when you change your condensor, be sure you change the drier too. it's really easy, there are only around 2 screws to remove. once you're done, don't charge it. you need to vaccum it out. the vaccum machine they used at the shop should also bring in new oils too, and you'll need one cup of ac oil. just bring your car to pepboys or whatever and have them do the jobs, I think pepboys does it for $59 for vacumm + oil + recharge. just don't tell them what did to your car.

 

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