I'm new to these boards and wanted to share my experience in diagnosing and replacing an injector on a 92' SE.

I started noticing the engine stumbling, with a strong vibration through the engine when at idle, when I would rev up the car the vibration only got stronger and shook enough to feel on the cars door, roof, ect.

When the car was in motion it felt excatly like there was a foreign object in a tire, it was strong and very apparent.

I very carefully inspected the coil packs and didn't notice any hairline cracks that seem to plague these cars. I tried various methods of disconnecting the harnesses to each injector without any noticeable change. With the help of these boards I then tested the resistance of the front three injectors with my VOM.

The resistance measured 12.6 ohms on the front two (starting from left to right) and off the scale of measurability on the far right injector.

I was able to get a used rail with 3 injectors for $30 only to find out that two of the three in the used rail were also bad. However, I put the "good" injector in place of the bad one in my car.

Immediately after starting the car the vibration was gone and the car accelerated smoothly. Car runs great now! THANKS to the members who post replies to diagnose problems, it really helps us noobs out.

P.S. This was a very easy repair!! I had a little problem getting the injectors out of the rail(s), but other than that it went smoothly.

 

Yep. Well done. The fuel injector reading should have a factory spec between 10-14ohms. Now go back and get a $20 refund on the two bad injectors

 

How easy? How long did it take you? It's looking like I'm headed down that path myself, and trying to decide if I can do it to save money or if I'll need to pay someone to do it.

 

It's not that hard, but at the same time, it also depends on how comfortable you are under the hood. If you have a Haynes manual it's all in there. Read it and decide, because all of us saying is easy - is relative really.

 

I did mine a few months back. Prior to that the most work I've done under the hood was changing plugs and filters. It took me, on a vg, about 2 and a half hours. The only problem I had was removing some of the old vacum hoses. Also make sure and get a torque wrench (I got a cheap one at Harbor freight for like $20) and check the torque sequence. On the Faq page there is a link to a how to guide with the proper sequence. I was a little intimidated at first, coming from an older 4 cylinder engine with rear wheel drive, which was very easy to work on, but it wasn't bad at all. Make sure you get a new upper plenum gasket, you'll need that as well. Also check out the gas lines while you're at it. The lines that connect the rails are notorius for cracking and leaking.

 

Dude has 3 posts, is a donating member and clearly has read many previous posts to solve his problem.

Talk about a model member. Very glad you got your problem solved for cheap. A mechanic probaby would have ripped you off! Nice work