Before you post your advice, please know that the following thread is a bit old and it is only here in the 'recent postings' because my problem is solved and I posted the "end of the saga" further down. Thanks!
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The tranny died in my 90SE Auto. I have a line on another from a local yard. I've done my own struts, starters, electrical work, engine work... but I've never pulled a transmission before.

I have all the necessary tools, and AllData subscription, and the FSM, but I'm wondering if this is a huge pool of quicksand to get into, or if it's a straightforward job. Have you removed/replaced your transmission, and did you find the job particularly difficult?

Thanks for your opinion(s).

 

My opinion is that its just work. Proper tools needed to keep sanity. Figure out all things which are worthwhile to replace simultaneously; seals, rubber boots etc...

 

if you have jacks/stand that can lift the car high enough to clear the tranny...and then get it out of the car...you're 1/2 way there.

axles need to be pulled...tranny mounts..but otherwise it should be a straight shot.

 

Here you go. Complete guide on the whole job.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2

 

Oh btw, the only tools I use are;

- Air tools (don't know the exact name in english though), with 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 32mm except for wheel bolts which is stock 21mm unless you've changed them.
- Ring keys, 12 and 14mm.
- Pliers
- Screwdriver might be useful

Hmm... I belive that's it actually. Pretty straight forward job, it just takes a bit of labor and time.

 

I'll have to get the Ring Keys... or raid my father-in-law's shop.
I also have the air tools and found them priceless when replacing the struts.

How high does the car need to be lifted/supported to remove the tranny?

I intend to inspect/replace the CV's while I'm in there, but what other seals/gaskets would you replace while doing the job?

Time is not an issue: I'm a teacher on Summer Break so I have until the first week of September to get it done.

Phatsta: thanks for the write-up. I'll memorize that before starting the job.

BTW: I was lucky enough to find a junkyard tranny with 91,000 miles with a warrantee for $100 (the yard is going out of business). They have the SOHC engine that goes with it if anyone is looking.

Thanks for the great replies: keep 'em coming.

 

That's a good deal on the tranny.

I have never messed with an AT, but I know they are heavier than a manual, which makes it a pretty tough job for one person.

Since you are getting such a smoking deal on the tranny, I would use any extra money to get some kind of tranny jack or an adapter plate that makes it easier to use a floor jack, along with some good jackstands if you don't already have them.

MrGone and I took out my tranny to replace my clutch and flywheel. We ran into a couple of little snags, but it's still a pretty straightforward job. Like I said, though. I don't know about ATs.

 

OK: not to appear really dumb, but what are "Ring Keys"?

By your illustrations, Phatsta, it looks like you're referring to box-end wrenches, but is this some other tool of which I'm not aware?

Red92: I have an engine hoist which I'll be using to support the tranny, so I won't be needing a transmission jack (I think).

 

I have to put a transmission in a 91 SE. What is a reasonable price for one? Any good sites where I can order one?

 

Not dumb, just need to learn sweDish... Maybe socket wrench?

Tranny lowered in, hoisted up: Needs only 2x4" sitting on strut towers and this, whatever u callit...



edit: btw, replace both axle seals 4$ ea.

 

Wiking: that is a ratcheting tie-down strap. Larger versions, with chain or cable, are called a "come-along." At least, on the Maine Logging Roads they are!

 

Barbers: try eBay. $350 - $800
Most local junkyards: $300 - $600
Aamco (as an example of a commercial shop -- but I wouldn't go there) quoted me $2,600 to do the job.

 

Maybe I'll stick to this chinese sign language: mile high pile of pictures-from-the-net... = First the 2x4, then struts tower, then... No need to me-mori-ze.

Anyways, easy to ratchet up&down, tranny is not too heavy. Do NOT place 2x4 on fenders, cut it just fittin inside. Tranny 'thickness' defines how high the car has to be...

With those quoted prices youre rich man!

 

As I said, I wouldn't go to Aamco. The tech at Aamco tried to rationalize his price ($2,600) by saying that, if I were to get two years' use out of the car after rebuilding the tranny, it would be like having a car payment of $100/month for just over two years. (I know: it sounded stupid to me at the time, too).
After calling a couple of shops, I decided to do this job myself precisely because I'm NOT a rich man. I'm a single dad with two teenagers to support -- not to mention a payment on my Chevy Tahoe! The Maxi is my play and commuter vehicle so I can't afford to drop a bunch of $$$ into her.

I'm looking forward to starting the tranny swap tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

Sorry my english translation tends to go wrong sometimes. I don't really know what it's called but here is a picture of one.



Btw, I jack the car up about... hmm... say 50 - 70cm or something like that. Basically the higher the better, to a certain point of course. It should be enough space for the tranny to come down under the car, then out of there without any problems, then you're OK.

RED92: It's not like you need to lift the tranny down, I've been alone with all my swaps. As long as you do it right there's no problem Just use an overhead crane or something like that. Like so:

 

ring key = box end wrench

 

Thanks

 

Figured I'd post the end of the story:

I got my deposit back on the junkyard tranny and got a used unit from 'Org member "UsedParts" in Portland (Maine).

I know that the torque converter was stripped on my old tranny so I decided to go with replacing the entire unit because the cost difference wasn't that much.

The car works great now, and it's wonderful to have my Max back after going without it since June 21.

Shops quoted:
Tranny: $2,600
Steering Rack: $475
New LH CV half-shaft: $200

I paid:
Used Tranny: $350
Steering Rack Bushings (the rack was fine) $7.00
Axle Seals: $7.00
CV: $60
and added:
Used Warpspeed Y-Pipe: $75.
...and did all the work myself. Not bad for a one-eyed, broken-down old piano player.

Thanks to all of you 'Org members for your great suggestions and the several write-ups here, on Phatsta's CarDomain site, and on 4DSC.com

LW

 

You guys are lucky down there in the states! When I was looking for a used Auto trans for my 89 SE, I was quoted $950-$1400 for a used tranny from a autowreckers! As for the job of actually replaceing the trans it's a really easy job. It only took me 1.5hrs but I've done it a couple times so I know exaclty what I'm doing. But it's definatly a doi t yourself job. If you have the tools.

 

Well, i've yanked out the tranny in my Maxima 3 times. The first time it took me about 12 hours to get it out and then back in. The second time it took me about 6 hours ,and then finally the 3rd time I took it back out, it took me 2 hours to take it out and 2 hours to put it back in. Keep in mind i was using a lift and my car was about 6-7 ft in the air. I honestly would never attempt to do this job on my back and as far as tools go, all you need are several 3/4 inch extensions, a socket set and a good ratchet. I didn't use much of anything else.
PM me if you have any questions.

 

Its actually a gift, just to be able to repair a broken maxchine. Only Bro Ken may understand what I mean. Fast, busy, healthy dont - yet. Happy for u!

 

Great stuff! It's always nice to see people succeed. Especially when they try out on something they haven't done before. Congrats from Sweden

And it's always nice to help, and to see your work being recognized like so

Happy to help man, cheers!

 

as long as we're talking about installing trannies...are there any trannies out there that are suitable as an upgrade for the 3rd gen? Like a tranny swap?

 

As a direct bolt-in: No.
With a little work, and a donor car, you can swap in a manual transmission.
With a lot more work, you can swap a VE auto in to a VG engine, but I don't know if there is any performance gain.

If you'd like to keep your automatic, there is a supplier who will custom build a better torque converter for you for around $350 that will make your automatic dig like a gopher.
If you need the link, let me know (it escapes me at the moment and I'm too tired to dig for it).

 

i was wondering if anyone had a diagram for the master cylinder thing that you have to drill thanks!

 

Huh?

 

he wnats to know where to frill the hole for the clutch master cylinder on the firewall

 

I would like to swap to a Manual eventually, but for a temporary thing I think I might be interested in this link you have

 

The company was Edge Racing, and they custom-build the torque converters to your specs -- mild to wild.
Still looking for the link, but you can do a Google search for them, and I was told that "Andre" is the guy you have to speak to. 'Org user Aaron92SE gave me this information, and I understand he has a custom TC in his car and it's just awesome.

Best of luck.

 

www.edgeracingconverters.com

It won't make your car an absolute beast, but it will shave .15 off your 60 foot time.... which is VERY noticable. You will notice that you will be able to spin the tires much easier than with the stock stall. And the only time you will actual track gains is if you are able to lay the extra power down. (ie, sticky tires, drag radials, slicks)