CV boot ???
#1
CV boot ???
I was changing out my brake pads today and I noticed the left CV boot was ripped about 1/3 of the way around on the bottom half, with grease all the way around the ripped area.
My question is: How serious is this; and are there any write-ups or clever methods to seal this rip without having to purchase new materials. I'm nearly broke as it is, so I hope this isn't a major concern. I've noticed nothing abnormal while driving.
My question is: How serious is this; and are there any write-ups or clever methods to seal this rip without having to purchase new materials. I'm nearly broke as it is, so I hope this isn't a major concern. I've noticed nothing abnormal while driving.
#2
if there is a rip and grease coming out, your CV joint is going to fail soon afterword. you'll get a 'click-click-click' sound when you turn your wheel. you can pull the axle and repair the CV boot (~30-40$ or therebouts- rough guess) but its a big pain and very messy. OR you can just swap in a new axle... much easier, slightly more costly. for your car they sell for about 60-70 $ on ebay. i've never heard of anyone just sealing the rip - as in i dont think thats an option.
tom
tom
#3
No repairing the crack is a bad option if it even is an option...
It's really not that difficult to replace the boot. Just turn the wheel and listen to that which Minty describes... the click-click. If you can't hear any then your axle is fine and a boot replacement is the only thing you need. Inspect both sides.
The hardest part is the wheel hub nut. Alias the drive axle nut. It's a 32mm nut that will sit very tight, but as long as you can get that away the rest should be a piece of cake. Also consider changing the ball joint and control arm bushings while you're at it, it'll save you the job another day, plus the car usually feels much better to drive.
I don't know, cost-wise, what the difference is over there but over here you pay something like $40 for a boot replacement kit while you'd have to pay $300+ for a new axle.
Here's a guide that includes taking out the CV axles, follow that until point 3, EXCEPT the 'preparation' part. You won't need to remove your hood to do this job . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2
It's really not that difficult to replace the boot. Just turn the wheel and listen to that which Minty describes... the click-click. If you can't hear any then your axle is fine and a boot replacement is the only thing you need. Inspect both sides.
The hardest part is the wheel hub nut. Alias the drive axle nut. It's a 32mm nut that will sit very tight, but as long as you can get that away the rest should be a piece of cake. Also consider changing the ball joint and control arm bushings while you're at it, it'll save you the job another day, plus the car usually feels much better to drive.
I don't know, cost-wise, what the difference is over there but over here you pay something like $40 for a boot replacement kit while you'd have to pay $300+ for a new axle.
Here's a guide that includes taking out the CV axles, follow that until point 3, EXCEPT the 'preparation' part. You won't need to remove your hood to do this job . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2
#4
#5
Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, the boot is cheaper (like $10-20) vs doing the axle ($60-80), but the axle may be a ***** to get out and if you're creative, you can do the boot with one side of the axle still installed.
I don't have a write up on it, because I haven't done it. I find it easier/quicker to just do the whole axle.
I don't have a write up on it, because I haven't done it. I find it easier/quicker to just do the whole axle.
#6
i thought it might be less messy to do the whole axle, but then the tranny fluid that spillls everywhere cancelled out that. but the fact that regreasing an axle and putting a new boot on isnt nearly as good as just swapping a new axle in. so i vote for new axle. just hope you can do it yourself, i got quoted 350 from midas one time when i went in there one time(i did it myself saving over 200 bucks)
#7
defiantly just replace the axle is my best advice. I had a cracked boot and just replaced the boot/regreased the unit and a coupel weeks later it started clicking... so my advice is replace to axle and be done with it.for the extra money and time i wish i had of replaced the whole unit cuz now i gotta take it all apart anyway.. AGAIN
BJ White
BJ White
#8
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, the boot is cheaper (like $10-20) vs doing the axle ($60-80), but the axle may be a ***** to get out and if you're creative, you can do the boot with one side of the axle still installed.
I don't have a write up on it, because I haven't done it. I find it easier/quicker to just do the whole axle.
I don't have a write up on it, because I haven't done it. I find it easier/quicker to just do the whole axle.
It is definatly better to replace the whole axle. As long as you can afford it. If the price difference over there is no more than $40 - $60 I say hell go for it!
#9
Originally Posted by Phatsta
#10
Here's a guide that includes taking out the CV axles, follow that until point 3, EXCEPT the 'preparation' part. You won't need to remove your hood to do this job . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2
#11
I just did my axles too when my boots tore; I figure that after 12 years, they could have used new ones. If you are very broke and don't drive long distances floods, just drive the car as is until you hear clicking. It may last a few weeks, or I've seen a few months, but start saving until it clicks. Worse that can happen are that your axles pop out, but that is unlikely and you just have to keep an ear on them. G'luck.
#14
Originally Posted by bvtran
get yourself a cheap pump for $5, pump out your tranny fluid then change the axle. when you're done, pump it back. it's much more cost effective.
pump??? ATF costs around $1-2 a quart, and the it's as easy to drain, as the oil. Plus it should be changed every 30k.
Drian the ATF, and change the whole axle..should cost you $40-$70 depending on where you get your axle from. Dont forget to also change the axle seal, if it is damaged. Most people just change it anyways as preventive mainteanace, so you're not leaking ATF after a week..
my 2 cents.
#15
Originally Posted by Phatsta
...It is definatly better to replace the whole axle. ...
There is/was one supplier advertizing a boot rubber so flexible that it can actually be drawn over the joint. Now where can one buy those?
#16
Originally Posted by Wiking
And easier. And replace also the tranny/axle seals, few dollar$ apiece.
There is/was one supplier advertizing a boot rubber so flexible that it can actually be drawn over the joint. Now where can one buy those?
There is/was one supplier advertizing a boot rubber so flexible that it can actually be drawn over the joint. Now where can one buy those?
There are those spilt boots as well that you don't need to take down anything for. You just put it on and glue it together. My dad used one of those once and it tore in about a month. Useless.
#18
Originally Posted by aminus21
pump??? ATF costs around $1-2 a quart, and the it's as easy to drain, as the oil. Plus it should be changed every 30k.
Drian the ATF, and change the whole axle..should cost you $40-$70 depending on where you get your axle from. Dont forget to also change the axle seal, if it is damaged. Most people just change it anyways as preventive mainteanace, so you're not leaking ATF after a week..
my 2 cents.
Drian the ATF, and change the whole axle..should cost you $40-$70 depending on where you get your axle from. Dont forget to also change the axle seal, if it is damaged. Most people just change it anyways as preventive mainteanace, so you're not leaking ATF after a week..
my 2 cents.
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