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Otto Bar.. Me likey likey!!

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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 03:35 PM
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Otto Bar.. Me likey likey!!

Wow about a 3 minute install, and I can't beleive how much it has improved the corning ability!!! Still no where near at tight as the womans SE-R but leaps and bounds better than stock. Next stop LCA tie!!! Now where is my credit card anyway.......
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 04:28 PM
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what other suspension mods do you have?

I currently have a fstb, rsb, eibachs and tokicos, rstb (installed incrementally in that order).

My fstb was somewhat noticeable, but the rsb was very noticeable. Obviously, the best overall mod was the Eibach/tokico combination. The rstb I put on last and everything is very solid. Actually, the worst part of cornering is the crappy tires
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CyMax
Wow about a 3 minute install, and I can't beleive how much it has improved the corning ability!!! Still no where near at tight as the womans SE-R but leaps and bounds better than stock. Next stop LCA tie!!! Now where is my credit card anyway.......
Be sure and buy the Stage II.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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Alas, they dont accept Visa... 75c ski rack from local flea market does it: more rigid than any other. Also ski rack is ready when the season starts...

But still cannot dig why u call the bar OTTO?

Old Aug 20, 2005 | 03:38 AM
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thats the name of the company-otto racing. ve's cant use the ski rack cause you need extra clearance, not a flat bar.
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
what other suspension mods do you have?

I currently have a fstb, rsb, eibachs and tokicos, rstb (installed incrementally in that order).

My fstb was somewhat noticeable, but the rsb was very noticeable. Obviously, the best overall mod was the Eibach/tokico combination. The rstb I put on last and everything is very solid. Actually, the worst part of cornering is the crappy tires
OTTO, thats it for now, but now I'm feeling an addiction beginning
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CyMax
OTTO, thats it for now, but now I'm feeling an addiction beginning
The two best bang for the buck mods I have done (my opinion) are the y-pipe and the rsb.

Those are both mods you can put on with basic tools and jackstands and provide noticeable results.
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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now that i own both a VE and VG, or more importantly a gxe and a se, the biggest difference i've noticed is in the rear suspension. the gxe sucks, basically.
i've seen the the suspension components aside from the springs and struts are different between the two, would the RSB help a gxe?
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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What the? Ski rack as in aluminum? And only one point is bolted down?? IMHO, I don't think that thing works at all. The aluminum will just flex at that securing point. Even if it's steel, it would still flex. There's a reason why they use the ring and use all 3 bolts to secure it.

Originally Posted by Wiking
Alas, they dont accept Visa... 75c ski rack from local flea market does it: more rigid than any other. Also ski rack is ready when the season starts...

But still cannot dig why u call the bar OTTO?

Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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come on, Jeff, give him a break!

Ski racks are probably plentiful in Sweden, whereas the shipping on a strut tower brace would cost him as much as new tires. haha

Sorry, Wiking, but that does look pretty ghetto.
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
come on, Jeff, give him a break!

Ski racks are probably plentiful in Sweden, whereas the shipping on a strut tower brace would cost him as much as new tires. haha

Sorry, Wiking, but that does look pretty ghetto.
..... .....
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 09:02 PM
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it does look a bit ghetto, but wiking I like the way you Macgyver things for the Max
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 07:54 AM
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FIY: Rigidity no problem; u may raise the car from it ... Swedish steel profiles beat all ebay decorations. Enbits welded/fitted to seamlessly lock to body forms.


Maximaniac
"thats the name of the company-otto racing. ve's cant use the ski rack cause you need extra clearance, not a flat bar"

- Thks for info: well, this is then the über-excellent Thüle-bar. VG won again
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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up down = okay. side to side + twisting = no so good. But as long as you are happy. It wouldn't take that much to find some round stock. Or find another nissan that came with the fstb standard. ie... infiniti
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
...as long as you are happy. ...
Its dangerously good. Make$ me to want new wheels, shocks and turbo all nono's for ol hillybilly. But. Mama likes me havin a driving licence.

Junkyards here: volvo, saab, bmw, vw, volvo, saab, bmw, vw, volvo, saab, bmw, vw, and lada.
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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There is honestly that much of a difference in a FSTB? I want one but I have been putting it off to find the one I want (otto i think) since i do not want a ebay one,they might work but look pretty crappy.

I really want the Cattman one. so if anyone wants sexual favors they can buy me a cattman FSTB
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MrSector9
There is honestly that much of a difference in a FSTB? I want one but I have been putting it off to find the one I want (otto i think) since i do not want a ebay one,they might work but look pretty crappy.

I really want the Cattman one. so if anyone wants sexual favors they can buy me a cattman FSTB

your in need of help
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 06:22 PM
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haha maybe but it is $200 american,and i never said the sexual favors were from me directly
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MrSector9
haha maybe but it is $200 american,and i never said the sexual favors were from me directly



......... wat could have been........ ---> --->


(if you found this offensive, I appologize. If you found it funny, convince the offended guy it's funny.)
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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I think there is actually a difference inbetween having one/not having one. Difference inbetween a Stillen and let's say an Otto or even the OG Courtesy bar? Na.. I've had the courtesy and have the otto.

I'd get the OTTO. Only because you can get them cheap enough to justify it. If they were $100+, I'd say forget it. Get the rear bar from Blemco. That made a small diff also.

Maybe you can go to goodwill and get some ski rack aluminum and make your own.

Originally Posted by MrSector9
There is honestly that much of a difference in a FSTB? I want one but I have been putting it off to find the one I want (otto i think) since i do not want a ebay one,they might work but look pretty crappy.

I really want the Cattman one. so if anyone wants sexual favors they can buy me a cattman FSTB
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
... get some ski rack aluminum and make your own.
Note: one needs alu welding widgets to get it done, Alu rigidity is limited.

I suggest using rigid Steel profile, weld large thick washers in ends. Apply vertical support between washer & profile, grind to fit shock tower form. You may fashion also a steel go around the tower, added weight is the only positive (?) result. DIY is as good as any purcha$ed, quite often better...depends on the Y-factor.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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Don't want to get into an argument about FSTBs but since we both haven't tested anything, I'll just say this. How many have you seen with just one connection? And how many have you seen using all 3 (or as many strut bolts there are)? Everthing from the chepest to the more expensive. Actually, the more expensive one use even more connection points for more rigidity(ie.. mustang strut bars). If you think one is just as strong as 3, then fine. I just don't happen to agree.

Originally Posted by Wiking
Note: one needs alu welding widgets to get it done, Alu rigidity is limited.

I suggest using rigid Steel profile, weld large thick washers in ends. Apply vertical support between washer & profile, grind to fit shock tower form. You may fashion also a steel go around the tower, added weight is the only positive (?) result. DIY is as good as any purcha$ed, quite often better...depends on the Y-factor.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 08:18 AM
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just get some steel tubing....weld it in. can't get any cheaper than that.

wiking...if you're that frugal then knock down someone's steel fence and cut and weld it in.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
...that frugal ...
Excuse me, 'that frugal' -fails my uneducated french...nicht verstehen. I always pay my bits, raw materie´l is most cost effective. Btw. If I was rich, I would not be ski rack troublemaker on this for um, I'd be busy talking with my stock guy in my Lear.

Question is profile form, material, wall thickness. Does not matter if they are former bean supports. And every support, be it from OTTOman empire or SOLOMON, are made by smbdy. Max is stupid: only rigidity matters, not bolt qty, not price, looks etc. Smbdy who is interested, may test by taking some bolts off: proof is near if its wanted. I just wanted cheapest basics: its workin wonderfully.

First of all, I just did not believe at all in that bar: after weldin in this, I am a beleiver in ottomans bars. The day I start racing, I'll add an X with multiple bolts to chassis... and thats not gonna be maxima. Still, rear bar fails my imagination all but from salespoint: I've never testEd tHat.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Excuse me, 'that frugal' -fails my uneducated french...nicht verstehen. I always pay my bits, raw materie´l is most cost effective. Btw. If I was rich, I would not be ski rack troublemaker on this for um, I'd be busy talking with my stock guy in my Lear.

Question is profile form, material, wall thickness. Does not matter if they are former bean supports. And every support, be it from OTTOman empire or SOLOMON, are made by smbdy. Max is stupid: only rigidity matters, not bolt qty, not price, looks etc. Smbdy who is interested, may test by taking some bolts off: proof is near if its wanted. I just wanted cheapest basics: its workin wonderfully.

First of all, I just did not believe at all in that bar: after weldin in this, I am a beleiver in ottomans bars. The day I start racing, I'll add an X with multiple bolts to chassis... and thats not gonna be maxima. Still, rear bar fails my imagination all but from salespoint: I've never testEd tHat.

i think we have a bit of language barrier here. my reference to frugal is more if you want to save some $.

a lot of the hardcore old school racers used to just weld steel pipe between the strut towers and reinforced it by welding it to the firewall. given it's not the best looking...and probably not last as long (cracking)...but it's stronger than any off the shelf strut bar you can buy.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 10:28 AM
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How do you know how well it works? If you feel a diff, fine. But how do you know it works that much better than the ones we use??

And since the differences inbetween one and not having one is pretty small anyway.

Like I said, everone I've seen, uses a O type bracket. I guess everyone else in the world does it wrong and you did it right.

Rear bar. I've driven with and without one. I've noticed a difference. Since I got it for such a small price anyway, it was worth it. Actually, it's worth the retail price also. So if you can feel a diff with this small, one bolted fstb, then please allow me the same courtesy when I tell you I feel a diff with the rear bar.

Originally Posted by Wiking
Excuse me, 'that frugal' -fails my uneducated french...nicht verstehen. I always pay my bits, raw materie´l is most cost effective. Btw. If I was rich, I would not be ski rack troublemaker on this for um, I'd be busy talking with my stock guy in my Lear.

Question is profile form, material, wall thickness. Does not matter if they are former bean supports. And every support, be it from OTTOman empire or SOLOMON, are made by smbdy. Max is stupid: only rigidity matters, not bolt qty, not price, looks etc. Smbdy who is interested, may test by taking some bolts off: proof is near if its wanted. I just wanted cheapest basics: its workin wonderfully.

First of all, I just did not believe at all in that bar: after weldin in this, I am a beleiver in ottomans bars. The day I start racing, I'll add an X with multiple bolts to chassis... and thats not gonna be maxima. Still, rear bar fails my imagination all but from salespoint: I've never testEd tHat.
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
How do you know how well it works? If you feel a diff, fine. But how do you know it works that much better than the ones we use??
...Like I said, everone I've seen, uses a O type bracket. I guess everyone else in the world does it wrong and you did it right. ....
Well, it works well Better is always better; me cannot know how x500 pricey sixbolt works.

Nope, me none better than u, but different viewpoints cannot be bound. I sleep when u work. Nothin wrong with tHat. U know, I only had 2 washers, tHen invested into fleamarket high strength ski rack... got what I wanTed: superb curve handling compared to norack.

The sixpack guy may test if they want to findout the Truth, the two washer hillybilly can only laugh, enjoy being maxed hillybilly. [Note: I am still honoring all of u experience]
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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Well (not to add to the wonderfully boring argument), I'd like to say that the FSTB will always be the #1 handling upgrade for the maxima (and most other cars on the market). The differences are night and day in my book, high speed lane changes reinforces the 'S' in 4DSC. I added the Blemco RSTB last in all my suspension upgrades, but the performance did not go unnoticed. The rear tires grab even better on high speed figure 8 ON and OFF ramps. My max moves like a dart now
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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F'it. I'll add to the argument. I think mounting the three bolt ring is better than simply welding a bar to the strut towers. By bolting the ring to the strut (itself, not just the tower) reinforces the mounting of the strut itself and not just the tower. Its hard to phrase it, but as the strut itself flexes, it bends within the steel in the mounting of top of the tower (localized stresses), so by mounting the strut directly to reinforced steel coupled to the new brace will provide the best reinforcement. But if one were to weld just a bar, that bar would not couple itself to the region were the localized stresses are located, it would only reinforce the entire strut tower from flexing, and I think that is only 1 part of a 2 part mechanism.

Thank you, and good bye
Old Aug 22, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Pervis Anathema
Be sure and buy the Stage II.
mfin


normally most strut bars have atleast 2 securing points

but I understand you have to make due with what you have, and aslong as you noticed a difference
Old Aug 23, 2005 | 04:58 AM
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so is that otto bar just a weaker version of a FSTB....with there being only one bolt and all...
Old Aug 23, 2005 | 06:02 AM
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no, the otto bar and most conventionally made strut tower braces, use all of the upper strut mount bolts to hold it in place.
Wiking's design is just a homemade thingamabob that uses 1 bolt on each side, which would increase the chance of snapping that bolt
Old Aug 23, 2005 | 06:26 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
... the chance of snapping that bolt
Wiking surfers & Co. ThüleBar His tory:
1. ...its 'proven' already by the for um: too weak for tHat snapPing. lol. Barely hangs ? on...
2. Every-thin tHats made by man, has been made by smbdy somewhere:
3. My super tough sportsy bar profile was deSigned and made and coated by swedes by sweDish steely standards to handle fatty swedes all belongings on top of volvos; Thüle possibly not available tHere. (btw. surpasses e-bay tinpaper)
4. WellDing 2washers by Wiking Homesurfers & Co.; not nice but sticks.
5. deSign Copyright: copy right away!

But as said, its worth every 75 cent! The second bar [uknow, swedes use ski rakcs as pairs] is already reserved to snap a certain bolt on Citroën 1.8i...
Old Aug 23, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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Wiking you english is getting worse
Old Aug 23, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Wiking surfers & Co. ThüleBar His tory:
1. ...its 'proven' already by the for um: too weak for tHat snapPing. lol. Barely hangs ? on...
2. Every-thin tHats made by man, has been made by smbdy somewhere:
3. My super tough sportsy bar profile was deSigned and made and coated by swedes by sweDish steely standards to handle fatty swedes all belongings on top of volvos; Thüle possibly not available tHere. (btw. surpasses e-bay tinpaper)
4. WellDing 2washers by Wiking Homesurfers & Co.; not nice but sticks.
5. deSign Copyright: copy right away!

But as said, its worth every 75 cent! The second bar [uknow, swedes use ski rakcs as pairs] is already reserved to snap a certain bolt on Citroën 1.8i...
Looks kike somebody has been in the Vodka again
Old Aug 24, 2005 | 02:41 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CyMax
Looks kike somebody has been in the Vodka again
Local fleamarket doesn sell, nowadays I dont ask the corner guy. Besides, I let my horses drink all tHose poisons, they do all the rave on the road. When eternity is known, Life is fun, needs only one max & .org. ...well, in this case extra 75cents.
Old Aug 24, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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Huh????
Old Aug 24, 2005 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Local fleamarket doesn sell, nowadays I dont ask the corner guy. Besides, I let my horses drink all tHose poisons, they do all the rave on the road. When eternity is known, Life is fun, needs only one max & .org. ...well, in this case extra 75cents.
Couldn't have said it (ok maybe he typed it) myself?
Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:31 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CyMax
Originally Posted by CyMax Looks kike somebody has been in the Vodka again Huh????
My Thulebar raw materiel came from hilarious fleamarket. Seems to be an offense: here they dont sell Huh???? -fluids. Happy w/o hangover, my horses drink the poisons.
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