90pearlSE

Here are a few pics of the stuff I've been working on recently. There's still a lot of work to do, but it's starting to take shape.



Bought some 2 part expanding foam, 8lb. density and pour it in to raise the level of the trunk floor.



Grinded/sanded/any means necessary to get it to a level surface.





Made a new trunk floor from .100 gauge aluminum - these peices are just dry-fitted in these pics

90pearlSE

Floor is installed and carpeted, driver's side rear panel is just dry-fitted. The light is wired to the trunk light, and there will also be one on the other side as well - I used the Nissan license plate lights. There is also a 12V acc. plug on that panel, and the little door opens up to gain access to the fuse block.



Made an aluminum panel to fill in the underside of the rear deck, to make it flat. I will install the crossovers for the 5 1/4's on the panel. This wasn't necessary, but I thought it would look nicer.



Here you can see the fuse block. There are also power, ground and remote blocks mounted on that panel as well, but can't be seen. Still need to dress it up a little, but this is what I was working on yesterday so I just took a couple pics of the progress.
The panel for the other side is fabbed, but I still need to make the access door to get to the jack. That will probably be next weekend's project.

Like I said, there's still a lot of work left to do, but it's starting to come together. I will use the orginal trim to cover the fender wells, and carpet anything else that is still exposed. I have the sub box designed (for one 10"), but it will probably be one of the last things to get built. The way I figured it up, I can put the amps under the box and I'll have a couple fans to keep them cool. Also, I need to make some kind of cover for the spare tire - I was thinking about chopping down a fiberglass cover like on the back of a van or something like that - just a little shell to cover it up.

kcidmil

hey when you're done, you want to come do mine... LOL

Looks good.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

woah, nice work!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

not bad, this your first time doing something like this?

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

Looks great so far!! Where did you pick up the foam you used??

90pearlSE

This is the first time I've worked with the foam, if that's what you mean. Actually, I built something like this in my first car ('87 Sentra), but it was all made out of wood. In that car, I made a level floor of wood (using shims contoured to the original floor) and built up a false floor so the amps were mounted in cabinets w/ lift off access panels.
Originally, I planned to do the same kind of thing in this car, just using different materials. I used the foam to build up the floor so I would have a level surface to work from and to maximize floor space. I had planned on making cabinets similar to my old Sentra, but when I got to measuring and laying out things I realized that I could build it another way and not give up as much trunk space. I wanted to use as little wood as possible, and came across a 5'x7' sheet of .100 gauge aluminum which I used for the floor, that rear deck panel, and the side panels. I've had the basic design/layout in mind for a while now, just been scavenging parts and stuff to put it all together. So far, the only thing I really had to buy was the foam, the rest I either had, found, or recycled. Here's a good example - that access door for the fuse block is held shut magnetically. I disected an old hard drive and removed the magnets (which are super strong for their size), cut a piece of steel from an old computer case and riveted it in as the door stop, and the carbon fiber (looking) cover on the door is a dummy knock out from a Skeeter bass boat. Sometime I see things just laying around the shop and start thinking, 'hey, I could use that for....' I've had to make a few compromises here and there from what I had originally planned, but it the end I think it'll still turn out pretty nice. There are still a few other goodies I have in mind, but I'm not going to give up all my secrets just yet.

CyMax - I got the foam from US Composites - http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html
Just be warned if you try using it - it will work it's way through every nook and crannie, and once it cures it's tough to get out. If you notice in the one pic the spare tire is wrapped in plastic - the first time I poured in the foam it worked it's way through my fences and under the tire, and stuck it to the trunk. I had to use pry bars to break it loose and then remove all the excess foam from the tire well. It's some neat stuff to work with, but the clean up can be a real pain. The stuff I used was the 8lb. density, and when it cures it's as hard as a rock. Considering that I already had a layer of dynamat on the original floor, the layer of foam, adhesive, aluminum, and carpet, I don't think I'll be getting much road/exhaust noise from the trunk - might even put the WSP b-pipe and Magnaflow back on when I'm done.

bradsm87

Looks AWESOME! If I were to do that, to decrease the amount that I would have to fill in the boot, I would purchase a 195/65R15 tyre to save 10mm of space that I would have to fill in the boot with.

Wiking

Awesome project! Most ppl spend their time in the other end trying to get it moving...

In the long run, (if no) ventilation, condensation, in seeping water under the foam, will cause problems. The ever worldly present heat fluctuation is causing always air exchange into remotest pockets. Air exchange = moist, dirt in (=rust).

The one good known way to combat this, is oil spray. I suggest u inject oil between foam & metal...

When rust is NOT tolerated - oil flies in...
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuil...rotection.html

Misc r ust http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/17

generation3

iTrader: (33)

You're doing all that for a single 10? Thats not right. I still give you mad props though this looks awesome.

Priority05

Are you telling me that this stuff is pretty tough when it cures?

Sounds like a good way to make molds. Especially if it could be sanded easily.

Phoenix

Id watch out for the underside of the foam, that might cause some problems... But he just said he crafted it out of .100 Aluminum.... which doesn't rust.

When aluminum oxidizes you get Aluminum Oxide which is stronger than the aluminum itself. A bit of water shouldn't be a problem, But I might drop some dessicants down below that fuse panel... just to be safe.

90pearlSE

The entire floor panel is sealed in with Loctite 5900, so I can just about guarantee that no moisture will get under it. Also, the carpet is 18 oz. marine grade carpet with a rubberized backing, held in with a latex adheasive. This stuff is a closed cell poly urethane foam and water will not permeate through it. I buttered up the entire surface w/ the Loctite (this is the stuff that is used to seal oil pans), as well as all the seams. So moisture/condensation are the least of my worries.
I will be installing vents on the side panels so as not to choke off the stock vent boxes.

Priority05 - yes this stuff is very tough when it cures and can be used for making molds (you just need to get the release agent to coat whatever you are making the mold from). I wouldn't say that it is easily sanded - for the most part I used a big grinder with a 8" coarse disc.

Bradsm87 - the spare is a 205/65/15. The tire is not completely flush with the floor, it sticks up about 1/2". I couldn't justify raising the entire floor up another 3/4" or so just for the tire to be flush, when it would be a lot easier to get a narrower tire or something like that. Last night I was able to track down fiberglass tire cover from a conversion van, which I will probably end up cutting to cover the spare. Once I actually have it in my hands, I'll see what I can do with it. If I do go that route, I'm sure I'll end up making/install some kind of Nissan logo to make it look like it was 'stock'.

Wiking

Foam is NOT the problem; its ventilation. Problem is with any chassis cavity w/o rust protection and here is found more than plenty rooms for 'mushrooms'. No real problem: shielding is easy & cheap, oil on the chassis will spread in any micro cavity & paint crack blocking oxygen reaction with iron.

On the oil issue, read the suggested LINK

In favorable conditions, aluminum rots away very aggressively, then its tough as popcorn... Btw, I like popcorn. W/o special 'non-popcorn' -coating, alu is nono in industr appl

Wiking

I do believe that. That is why I here told others on the forum whattodo.

2yrs - got fresh fist size holes in the trunk area. (if car is used, sits outside)...luckily they are the least of my worries....

andy044

iTrader: (5)

hey 90pearl nice job
i am planning to do something similar soon! with the fake floor and all.
Great idea with the foam!
if i use it, i'll carve your name with a big heart around it on it.
i have 2 10" that really pound
my amp gets really hot tho(wiring is all correct)
and i was thinking of mounting it on the underside of the package shelf between my 6x9"s
because i thought being enclosed would be too hot
but i really like the idea of carving out a cabinet for the amp in the foam floor.
would you use computer power supply fans to cool?
and can u run those off 12vlts?
and would it be sealed, or would the fan bring in other air somehow?

holy cow batman!
i followed your llink to the foam supply site.
how much did it take
and cost?!

do u think i could coat the real trunk floor seams with red grease to deter water from seeping in and rusting? or would that screw up the chemical raection with the foam?

Keep up the good work
and pictures!

masama

Very nice work! I wish I could have the patience and time to do something like this.

90pearlSE

Wiking - I appreciate your input, but I'm pretty sure I took measures to eliminate any problems with moisture. If I had coated the surface with oil, the foam would not adhere properly to the floor. For all practical purposes, the entire surface was already coated with dynamat before I ever started with the foam.

andy044 - I bought the 16lb kit of the 8lb density and still have some left over. I don't know if I would recomment carving out the foam to make the amp cabinets - my original plan was to build the cabinets out of aluminum on top of the 'new' floor. Amps produce a lot of heat, and if they were surrounded with foam it would only insulate and hold the heat in - even with the fans I think they would still overheat.
Yes, power supply fans are 12V, and can be used. I'm either going to use a couple of these fans, or an inline bilge blower. I would like to rig up some kind of thermostat switch so they don't run all the time...I'll figure that part out when I get to it.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Nice work. Along with what wiking was saying about conensation. If you have a moonroof I would take take the time to check the draining lines.

THat must realy cut on road noise... And add some nice acoustics for a system.

Wiking

I like your job, nice in detail. I would not like to see it ruined ...

Problem is the chassis: its never a rigid block, but continuously living, bending, warping. Of course most of it depends how, mileage etc - u drive.

Old chassis has got lots of micro cracks in paint AND metal structures (And I am speaking about the clean inside, not stone chips on outer side bottom etc.) Every trip causes more cracks, and existing warp larger/smaller. This in microscopic scale. Now air in those cracks forms a 'channel system' - zoom in, an you can see a cave system breathing in/out the AIR.

Ambient air temp is constantly goin up or down. This creates heat expansion contraction in all levels, stressing the mentioned structures. (Now if u had micro systems to track it, u would locate 'your' caves via this air sucking in/out, like the real caves on earth.)
When structures are below dew point, the moist in air condensates on surfaces. Too bad when this happens deep in the chassis microcracks...

Google "dewpoint" to see the temp charts when condensation starts.

I think theres only two ways: either you have absolute leakless plastic bag - impossibility in a vehicle - or smtg that will not allow the water in contact with metals (allows electrolysis =oxidation).

Read the given links.

Oil forms a film on any surface, it forces itself into cracks and because of its properties, pushes water out. Its 'living' in its properties as liquid: any time chassis warps, cracks expand/contract, oil flows in/out covering the surfaces its on. It 'heals' itself, contrary to std rustproof sticky wackies, which only keep 'water hatching under', out of sight. The nice thing is, u dont have to have a oil tanker for this effect: only thin spray on surfaces, and oil will work its way to any surface niche corner & microcrack.

In your case, I'd "bore hollow wells" into foam (maybe half inch dia?) until it reaches the chassis, squirt some ATF or very thin oil half inch depth. Spray new foam to plug it there. Do these oil delivery spots every at 5 inch interval. Now as its plugged below, u dont know about the oil (no spills), but its doing its secret shielding work below. The foamstuff is sticking on the surface as u intended, but oil will travel on the chassis, hopefully reaching all troublespots (around wheel wells).

Here I have not touched the more visible, too sorry reality when smbdy leaves trunk open while it rains, rear window seal starts leaking. Or first rust leak from wheel well as it appears: now u have water traveling with free tickets down below. No way to dry it out...

Note: I have not done this with your foam, so you should see that oil and foam together are inert, make sure oil dont harm u foam job.

The worst thing one may do, is to spray these rust stickies on used car; all depends on the complexity age etc of the surface properties.