Exhaust Manifold Leak.....What to do?
10-09-2005, 05:32 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 36
Exhaust Manifold Leak.....What to do?
Hi all,
I am pretty new to this board and also I have owned my 1992 Maxima GXE(automatic) for almost a year now. She has been a great car.
Just last week though, I noticed this ticking sound as I left my inlaw's place. The car will do it after its been sitting for a bit and still warm or in the morning when it's cold. I will leave from where ever and get that darn ticking sound........maybe 5 minutes later if I leave a light or a stop sign.......its as if it vanishes..............The Nissan dealer had a look(she was in for an oil change) and told me my exhaust manifold gasket was leaking in the front. They quoted me to get both manifold gaskets fixed and it came up to a little over $600 smackers(that included also changing a shifter bushing). My buddy who is a mechanic will more then likely do the job for me. He had a look at the car and also deteremined the same problem. He suggested that we could only change one gasket but recommended both...............What to do???
How long can I get away with this leak and then the thing resealing itself once warm? Is it dangerous in any way?
One more thing I have now is the CV boots are cracked and need to be changed......and my damn clock has a mind of its own......arggggghhhhhh...........
I bought an older car thinking I was gonna save money..........
Although this is a nice car.......I have sworn a couple times cause of it...........this summer it caught on fire around where the coil is.......luckily with some contacts I was able to get the main wiring harness and coil for about $150 bones.........and then fixed at Nissan for about $120......the original quote with new parts was in the $1,500 range......so I was like
Let me tell you I love this car. In March I had timing belt and water pump done along with a tranny flush and refill(routine maintenance). Smooth as silk......I bought it with 117,000km from an elderly lady(full detailed service records from dealer) and now it has 159,000km. Only seen one winter and I had her oiled before she saw it. Just want these headaches to stop!
I am pretty new to this board and also I have owned my 1992 Maxima GXE(automatic) for almost a year now. She has been a great car.
Just last week though, I noticed this ticking sound as I left my inlaw's place. The car will do it after its been sitting for a bit and still warm or in the morning when it's cold. I will leave from where ever and get that darn ticking sound........maybe 5 minutes later if I leave a light or a stop sign.......its as if it vanishes..............The Nissan dealer had a look(she was in for an oil change) and told me my exhaust manifold gasket was leaking in the front. They quoted me to get both manifold gaskets fixed and it came up to a little over $600 smackers(that included also changing a shifter bushing). My buddy who is a mechanic will more then likely do the job for me. He had a look at the car and also deteremined the same problem. He suggested that we could only change one gasket but recommended both...............What to do???
How long can I get away with this leak and then the thing resealing itself once warm? Is it dangerous in any way?
One more thing I have now is the CV boots are cracked and need to be changed......and my damn clock has a mind of its own......arggggghhhhhh...........
I bought an older car thinking I was gonna save money..........
Although this is a nice car.......I have sworn a couple times cause of it...........this summer it caught on fire around where the coil is.......luckily with some contacts I was able to get the main wiring harness and coil for about $150 bones.........and then fixed at Nissan for about $120......the original quote with new parts was in the $1,500 range......so I was like
Let me tell you I love this car. In March I had timing belt and water pump done along with a tranny flush and refill(routine maintenance). Smooth as silk......I bought it with 117,000km from an elderly lady(full detailed service records from dealer) and now it has 159,000km. Only seen one winter and I had her oiled before she saw it. Just want these headaches to stop!
10-09-2005, 06:29 AM
#3
the only time you save money by getting an older car is if you can fix it yourself.
you haven't desribed any major problems yet.
partswise the cost is pretty low, so if you're willing to invest your time and some tools you can do the repairs yourself for about the same as the monthly payment on a new car.
you haven't desribed any major problems yet.
partswise the cost is pretty low, so if you're willing to invest your time and some tools you can do the repairs yourself for about the same as the monthly payment on a new car.
10-09-2005, 06:41 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 36
How long can I get away with this lovely leak?
Where can I get me that $2 watch?
In all seriousness though..........yeah I know......nothing major.........but it just adds up. I will more then likely buy my own parts..........and give my buddy a hand doin it.
Jobber exhaust manifold gaskets should be fine I imagine.
Where can I get me that $2 watch?
In all seriousness though..........yeah I know......nothing major.........but it just adds up. I will more then likely buy my own parts..........and give my buddy a hand doin it.
Jobber exhaust manifold gaskets should be fine I imagine.
10-09-2005, 06:44 AM
#5
I personally think the the problem is not just a bad exhaust manifold gasket,but broken manifold stud/studs.....if this is the case, it will increase your labor charges when the shop gets into the job.....
10-09-2005, 06:54 AM
#6
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Posts: 36
What Nissan quoted me included changing the studs along with the labor.....I too had suspected a broken stud after reading about it here. If it was a broken stud though.......would it re-seal itself like its doing now?
10-09-2005, 07:05 AM
#7
Originally Posted by 92babyMAX
What Nissan wuoted me included changing the studs along with the labor.....I too had suspected a broken stud after reading about it here. If it was a broken stud though.......would it re-seal itself like its doing now?
If the qoute did include stud replacement then that is a good price...as for the reseal Q....Yes it will reseal itself as the engine and the manifold heat up and expand....Long term driving with broken studs will warp the manifold and cause it to make the noise all the time.....
10-09-2005, 07:28 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 36
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
If the qoute did include stud replacement then that is a good price...as for the reseal Q....Yes it will reseal itself as the engine and the manifold heat up and expand....Long term driving with broken studs will warp the manifold and cause it to make the noise all the time.....
Cool.thanks for the info. I am getting her fixed in 2-3 weeks.........I am the type of guy that when something goes wrong with one of my cars.....I take care of it ASAP.
10-09-2005, 09:46 AM
#9
i hope your buddy has a lift if you plan on changing out the rear manifold studs. i did this manifold swap myself a few weeks ago, and it made my job tolerable.the front side is quite simple though if there's a couple of you with air tools.
10-09-2005, 10:01 AM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 47
I have the same problem on my '89 GXE. I think it's harmless when it just does it every so often on a cold engine. I wouldn't assume any broken nuts - in my case I was able temporarily make it go away by just tightening all the exhaust manifold nuts. But to be weary about over-torquing, as you don't want to overstress your studs. A torque wrench on the nuts is adviseable. I don't know if they slowly back off with time or if the gasket is actually compressing. Replacing them with new, fresh locking nuts could help make them not back off again.
It might be good idea to do the following process to relieve stress in the exhaust manifolds while it is sitting cold:
1. Loosen y-pipe connections front and rear just to the point where they can move when tapped.
2. Loosen exhaust manifold nuts just to the point where the manifold can move on the head.
3. In gradual stages, tighten both exhaust manifold nuts and y-pipe nuts. Start "finger tight" and tap things with a hammer to make sure it settles into a stress-free position. Then very light wrench torque (IE fingers on a socket or extension but not wrench handle). Tap again to settle parts into stress-free-position. Then tighten all the fasteners up to specs.
The idea is to relieve stress of the manifold and Y-pipe when they are sitting cold or warm. I haven't tried it, but it might just do the trick.
This problem I think could be fixed for good if one of the y-pipe inlet ends had a flexible section. Metal expands as it heats up, and the V6 motor design has a lot of spacing between the front and rear manifolds, resulting in significant expansion of the two manifolds on opposite ends of the motor. The y-pipe is design as a rigid structure, so it can't accomodate heat-related expansion motion, so stress changes when the motor changes temperature. Seems like an aftermarket tubular Y-pipe like a WSP y-pipe could be easily modified with a convoluted metal tubing flex section (often you see them with stainless mesh wrap around the outside and even inside as well.) That's my take on it anyway.
It might be good idea to do the following process to relieve stress in the exhaust manifolds while it is sitting cold:
1. Loosen y-pipe connections front and rear just to the point where they can move when tapped.
2. Loosen exhaust manifold nuts just to the point where the manifold can move on the head.
3. In gradual stages, tighten both exhaust manifold nuts and y-pipe nuts. Start "finger tight" and tap things with a hammer to make sure it settles into a stress-free position. Then very light wrench torque (IE fingers on a socket or extension but not wrench handle). Tap again to settle parts into stress-free-position. Then tighten all the fasteners up to specs.
The idea is to relieve stress of the manifold and Y-pipe when they are sitting cold or warm. I haven't tried it, but it might just do the trick.
This problem I think could be fixed for good if one of the y-pipe inlet ends had a flexible section. Metal expands as it heats up, and the V6 motor design has a lot of spacing between the front and rear manifolds, resulting in significant expansion of the two manifolds on opposite ends of the motor. The y-pipe is design as a rigid structure, so it can't accomodate heat-related expansion motion, so stress changes when the motor changes temperature. Seems like an aftermarket tubular Y-pipe like a WSP y-pipe could be easily modified with a convoluted metal tubing flex section (often you see them with stainless mesh wrap around the outside and even inside as well.) That's my take on it anyway.
10-09-2005, 01:40 PM
#11
good luck getting those manifold nuts loose without busting the studs. i only had 2 busted studs when i started my project. by the time i had both manifolds off, i had 6 busted studs. nuts on exhaust pieces are not easily bothered.
10-10-2005, 02:20 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by mattcomet82
good luck getting those manifold nuts loose ...
Btw. Six is always twice the complicacy of four. So if u want cheap miles, swap now to stanza...
2$ watch, go to wallsmart. I did, spent 27$ on a wristwatch and had to give it up: it was too noisy in my silenced comfo. Now I wear my ol Citizen with a new batt
...then theres always the backup Nokia with the Timer: let Nissan watch flicker whatever, whenever...
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