So I just took a drive into town and everything was working fine. On e the way back the engine would resist revving when I would try to accelerate. I pulled over and it idled like crap for a min and then smoothed out. It was fine most of the way home and when I got close it acted up again. I can put it in neutral and rev it and it will rev fine mostly. I drop it back in gear and it chugs. I parked i and revved it some more and it seems ok. Also, today it is very windy and sloppy out. First snowy/ slushy roads of the season. What do ya think?

 

Try cleaning the maf sensor with some electrical contact cleaner....

 

I had the same prob during the 1st snow fall this year. I did the same advice that MyGreenMax94 quoted and it now drives fine.
I still gotta get the injectors replaced though

 

I just happened to be thumbing through my FSM, it says that if you get a fault with the MAFS, then it will not allow the engine to rev over 2400 RPM. I would try the cleaning like evryone else mentioned first. I was having a similiar problem but I had a dirty connection where the plug is. I cleaned it up and it seemed to fix the problem. That made sense to me since my car sat for nearly 3 years anyway.

 

3 years? wow. at that point my wife would more than likley turned it into a big ol planter.
she did that with the old toilet I left in the back yard.

 

 

yo!

 

You would be surprised at the crap my wife turns into planters. You should see what she did to our old bed.

 

thats funny though.

 

I thought i was a redneck...

 

no you are, hehe

 

Anyway children, I was just out there playing with it, it ran like crap with it disconnected, then reconnected the plug to MAF with intake still disassembled, no improvement. I put the intake back together and it seems to rev just fine now. If I have anymore problems, I'll buy a new one.

 

An easy way to troubleshoot bad MAF is to disconnect it and see how the car runs. If it runs worse the MAF might not be the prob, if its runs the same u know the prob

 

that crap happened to me once, and it was on my previous 91 max. Long story short, I traded that car in for the one that I currently have. To sum it up, on the previous car I had:

shot rack & pinion
leaky exhaust manifolds (broken exhaust studs)
Autotragic tranny went to hell
injectors shot
(probably melted cat)
shot wheel bearing

Probably alot more, but I didn't know much at the time, plus, I stopped counting when the cost to repair/replace those thing exceeded the cost of the car.

Things that are probably tied to your problem:

shot injectors
loose connections/corroded connection to ECU

things to also check out for:

MAF
tranny
distributer cap & rotor
vacuum hoses

Forgot to mention, the symptoms the my previous car had was that it would idle and rev fine, then during a drive, the engine would automatically rev up, then drop back down to normal speed for no apparent reason, and does it many times. Then it would die at a stop light, starts up again fine, then die during acceleration. Also, acceleration from a stand still is crap, felt like it was running on 3-4 cylinders. Once home, I tried to rev it up again, then the damn thing would back fire on every rev. Man, I never traded in a car so fast in my life.

 

Well..she was pretty good about it. I've had the car for almost 2 and it sat a year before we got it. She was more pist when I bought my fugly beater truck earlier this year. She's glad that I'm driving a decent looking ride now. I was concerned about the injectors and fuel pump being bad but I got lucky. So far only minor issues have shown up. There is a little bering whine from the tranny but it's good for now and shifts fine. All of the power stearing is dry and tight and the brakes are in great shape. The car has almost brand new tires that probably cost what I initially paid for the car.

 

Is a bad MAF supposed to set off the check engine light? Just took her for a ride after disassembling, cleaning connections and reassembling and still ran crappy at first, turned around to go home and now it runs as good as ever. Hopefully, that took care of it. And how come new and even reman. MAF's are so pricey?

 

- intel inside: couple of 5c resistors
- two squirrel screens to keep us dummies outside (take no offense; we are stupid as we pay)

 

Mafs are expensive because of supply and demand.
compare the price of a maf on our car to the price of a MAF on an 89 gm with a 2.8

MAFs I don't think use a standard resistor like you buy in radio shack, it's some design that changes resistance based on temperature IIRC