VE Power Steering Pump
#1
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VE Power Steering Pump
I' replaced the high pressure hose about 2 years ago. Now, I've got another leak., and it appears to be coming from right behind the pump's pulley.
Is this tough fix?
Should I even consider buying the seal kit that they sell?
Like I said, I've replaced the high pressure hose, has anyone ever had the return hose leak?
Is this tough fix?
Should I even consider buying the seal kit that they sell?
Like I said, I've replaced the high pressure hose, has anyone ever had the return hose leak?
#2
there is a seal for the pulley shaft, that's probably what's leaking, that should come w/ the seal kit. You can also change a few o-rings on the outside of the pump while it's off, there should be some o-rings in a rebuild kit as well. How close are you to Matt? I'm sure he can be of assistance.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
#3
the return hose contains pretty low pressures, so if it is leaking, it's probably got a hole or cut in it from something or it's leaking at the clamp, cuz it's loose or something. Where the high press. hose will ooze/leak/fail or whatever generally due to the fact that is has to hold hundreds of psi. of pressure. On most cars the high pressure parts of the p/s system will go out first.
Maybe clean off the area really well, and drive for a few days and see where the leak is starting from.
Maybe clean off the area really well, and drive for a few days and see where the leak is starting from.
#4
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Originally Posted by Dillbag
there is a seal for the pulley shaft, that's probably what's leaking, that should come w/ the seal kit. You can also change a few o-rings on the outside of the pump while it's off, there should be some o-rings in a rebuild kit as well. How close are you to Matt? I'm sure he can be of assistance.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
Yeah, Matt was just here last week helping me with my exhaust studs. I don't THINK it sounds tough, but I've been told that the hoses may be hard to get off, like you need a big wrench or something....I've done my clutch and flywheel. I've done the front exhaust stud, knock sensor, rear suspension, things that are probably more complicated..I'm just making sure there's no major snafus involved that will take me a long time to finish this., like things I've heard with the water pump.
#5
Yeah, you may need some larger sized wrenches, like maybe 24,27,30,32 mm or something like that.
I dunno man, just reserve a weekend, make sure you got all the stuff you need in hand, study any manuals/pix you can find to familiarize yourself with the job, and go for it.
I dunno man, just reserve a weekend, make sure you got all the stuff you need in hand, study any manuals/pix you can find to familiarize yourself with the job, and go for it.
#6
Originally Posted by Dillbag
there is a seal for the pulley shaft, that's probably what's leaking, that should come w/ the seal kit. You can also change a few o-rings on the outside of the pump while it's off, there should be some o-rings in a rebuild kit as well. How close are you to Matt? I'm sure he can be of assistance.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
As far as a tough fix, you have to drain the P/S system, take off the p/s belt, remove the pump, remove pulley, change seal, put back together. Not too hard to me, but i may have a different view of tough. see sig...
Or you can take your chances with a used or reman. pump. Just get a warranty.
#7
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Originally Posted by Dillbag
Yeah, you may need some larger sized wrenches, like maybe 24,27,30,32 mm or something like that.
I dunno man, just reserve a weekend, make sure you got all the stuff you need in hand, study any manuals/pix you can find to familiarize yourself with the job, and go for it.
I dunno man, just reserve a weekend, make sure you got all the stuff you need in hand, study any manuals/pix you can find to familiarize yourself with the job, and go for it.
I've got the Haynes, Chilton, and the FSM, so I guess I'll be fine, but offhand, do you know if any of them descirbe how to rebuild the pump? I ask because my seal kit came with about 10-15 little seals, springs, washers, and gaskets.
Also, I've heard some people say to use ATF instead of power sterring fluid. Is this wise?
#8
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Yeah..thanks.
Also, I've heard some people say to use ATF instead of power sterring fluid. Is this wise?
Also, I've heard some people say to use ATF instead of power sterring fluid. Is this wise?
#9
Yes, you're supposed to use ATF in it. All nissan power steering systems (and many other japanese automakers) use ATF.
the FSM shows how to rebuild the pump in the last few pages of the ST section. follow the thing step by step and you'll be okay. only problem is you may need more tools than you have. (i.e. workbench and vise).
to remove the high pressure hoses, usually I use an impact wrench and back up the hose with a pair of large channel locks or something. it's easier to do that than to try to hold the entire assembly still and remove the bolt with a wrench.. I tried that and ended up ripping the bracket off the strut tower. easier to just go with the impact and be done in a few seconds.
on removing the pump... while the belts are still attached and tensioned, break loose the nut on the pulley. then remove the belt and you'll have like 3 bolts in the front of the pump- you'll have to go through the holes in the pulley to get to them.
there's one more bolt in the back. usually it's covered in slime and you can't see it, but there's another bolt on the back of the pulley. (the bracket is U-shaped). once you get all of those out, just rock/pry/pull the pump out. you'll know when all the bolts are out.
the FSM shows how to rebuild the pump in the last few pages of the ST section. follow the thing step by step and you'll be okay. only problem is you may need more tools than you have. (i.e. workbench and vise).
to remove the high pressure hoses, usually I use an impact wrench and back up the hose with a pair of large channel locks or something. it's easier to do that than to try to hold the entire assembly still and remove the bolt with a wrench.. I tried that and ended up ripping the bracket off the strut tower. easier to just go with the impact and be done in a few seconds.
on removing the pump... while the belts are still attached and tensioned, break loose the nut on the pulley. then remove the belt and you'll have like 3 bolts in the front of the pump- you'll have to go through the holes in the pulley to get to them.
there's one more bolt in the back. usually it's covered in slime and you can't see it, but there's another bolt on the back of the pulley. (the bracket is U-shaped). once you get all of those out, just rock/pry/pull the pump out. you'll know when all the bolts are out.
#10
PS pumps are a small pain if you haven't done them before. The tolerances for the pump bracket and the pump itself must have been specified for a US Military! You have to fool with the pump to get it to slide onto the bracket. So don't get too angry if it takes a few minutes to get the pump to slide on.
#11
It helps a lot if you clean all the mating surfaces of sludge and gunk before trying to reinstall the pump.
aluminum isn't very flexible, so they don't leave much tolerance in there for the pump to attach to the bracket.
aluminum isn't very flexible, so they don't leave much tolerance in there for the pump to attach to the bracket.
#12
I don't think that particular bracket down there is Aluminum. The AC/Alternator bracket is.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
It helps a lot if you clean all the mating surfaces of sludge and gunk before trying to reinstall the pump.
aluminum isn't very flexible, so they don't leave much tolerance in there for the pump to attach to the bracket.
aluminum isn't very flexible, so they don't leave much tolerance in there for the pump to attach to the bracket.
#14
honestly bro, i wouldn't really fool with rebuilding the pump, IMO. unless it is way noisy, or didn't make any pressure (no p/s assist), it should be fine, just do the external seals/o-rings for the leaks. (again, IMHO) They are pretty durable as long as they haven't been run low on fluid too much.
#16
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Originally Posted by Dillbag
honestly bro, i wouldn't really fool with rebuilding the pump, IMO. unless it is way noisy, or didn't make any pressure (no p/s assist), it should be fine, just do the external seals/o-rings for the leaks. (again, IMHO) They are pretty durable as long as they haven't been run low on fluid too much.
Okay, well, can that be done without removing it from the car?
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