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iTrader: (2)

I don't remember who passed along the info, but a 24 inch crowbar dropped from the top down did the trick for me. It helps to have someone on the other end to line it up with the edge of the support bracket, smack it till it spins and out it comes. On a similar vein, what's the best way to put a new seal in? I recall seeing a rental tool that would do the trick at auto-zone, is that the ticket?

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iTrader: (2)

--or pants

VEvolution

I pretty much had to bang it in from different angles using very unorthodox procedures with the help of my dad. We used different tools including a pry bar and a peice of wood. We even tried to freeze it to shrink down a mm or 2. By the time we got it in, it was so beat up, we were praying that it wouldn't leak.

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iTrader: (2)

I basically did the same thing; drivers side was fine but it looks like the pass. side might be starting to leak. I plan on swapping it out soon, but want to try and do it minus the wood and hammer. There is a 'seal' tool noted in the FSM, but I can't seem to find one.

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

I found a PVC fitting from homedepot (UPC 012871626715) for only $0.93 and it worked perfectly for the driver side oil seal because the OD of the fitting is slightly bigger than the OD of the seal and the ID of the fitting fits the rubber band on the seal (the rubber band on the passenger side is smaller, but this fitting still works). I have to use a fine sand paper to make the fitting flat on the end but this is an easy job. It is better to put a wood on the top of the fitting if you want to hit it. Or you may break the edge of the fitting and the broken PVC may get into your tranny. I am afraid I did.

KEhrhardt

I did something similar for the passenger side oil seal. I took the new seal with me to Home Depot and searched the plumbing aisle for a PVC fitting (aka 'end pipe') that fit around the edge of the seal. Then I bought a 18" piece of thick dowel like is used for hanging clothes in the closet. I drilled a small hole in the center of the end pipe and used a drywall screw to fasten the end of the dowel to the end pipe. This became a tool to drive the seal into the transmission. I had to do this because I could not get a good whack at the seal with a mallet because of the bearing bracket. I held the seal up to the transmission, fed the tool through the bearing bracket, lined up the seal and tool, and tapped it lightly with a dead blow mallet to start the seal into the bore. You must be careful because the longer the dowel, the more chance it will be misaligned at the seal for a small error on the other end. I went very slowly, but once the seal was started in the bore, it seated fully. Hope I was able to explain that okay.

ArcticDC5

i am nervous getting under a car as well unless its a lift. For safety precautions, I use jack stand and then I also put cinder blocks next to the stands in case those fail. Cinder blocks are a very fragile piece and can shatter easily.

terryg911

Seals where not to bad for me. I used a big *** socket, forget the size and an extension to get it far enough out to hit it with a hammer. The driver side I used the 30$ Napa 36 MM socket which fit it perfectly, just inside the rubber flange part. Not what seals to the axle, but just bigger than that. Probabl;y does not make sense. I really liked the idea of taking teh old one to Lowes or HomDepot and finding a pipe fitting that fits just inside and around the part that seals to the tranny. GOOD STUFF