MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

Its just happened twice....Never before..

Some facts you need to know before inputting...

Koyo radiator less than 3k miles on it
thermostat, temp sensor, hoses, waterpump all replaced...

The first time, I was sitting in my car after driving maybe 4-5 miles, the car was idling..then all of a sudden I noticed smoke coming through the hood..so i got out and noticed that coolant was spraying out of the coolant can..I checked my temp gauge, and it was just sitting in the middle(normal)..

Second time, my brother filled the coolant can about 1/4...And was topping off the radiator while the car was on..Then it was doing it again...Noticed when the coolant was boiling, the fans weren't coming on...

So our guess is a faulty switch fan...
So, does anyone know where this switch for the fans is located in our engine bay(VE30DE)...

thanks

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

sounds like blockage. thermostat in backwards maybe.

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

so, you're telling me the thermostat just switched itself backwards...
Everything was replaced right..the car has been running fine for months, only two days ago and today it happened....

Oh yea...every part except the radiator is oem...

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

yeah, that's what i'm saying. maybe it got so hot, that it melted. and when it cooled, it reformed itself, in the correct place only in the reverse direction.

seriously though, it's probably a blockage, water pump failure or even a blown head gasket will also produce your symptoms. these cars do not have a problem with overheating. have you ever noticed how the fans rarely come on? and when they do, it's for a couple seconds. idling for a while is not going to make your coolant boil and explode out of the resivoir, unless of course the coolant isn't circulating. flush cooling system, check water pump is pumping, do compression check.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious, what's the reason for changing your radiator, thermostat, temp sensor and waterpump 3,000 miles ago?

Before you pull it apart, you need to properly bleed the cooling system of air. That's where your problem probably lies. You can't just drain/fill the coolant on these car, sometimes you have to take certain steps in re-filling the coolant. Jacking up the front end of the car being a crutial part.

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

ok..Can anyone tell me where the fan switch is located???

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The coolant temp sensor controls the fans...It is fairly cheap too[about $20]








Edit: better pic..

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

step 1.

disconnect the red plug pictured above while the engine is running. The cooling fans should come on in just a couple of seconds afterwards.

If it doesn't, then the fan relays are suspect..

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

thanks matt..will do..

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

A few checks I'd do
1. pressure test the cooling system.
2. take off the radiator cap and run the car while watching the coolant for bubbles.
that's in addition to the other menetioned checks

vizslak7

Streip the wrap back from the CTS harness and check for corroded / seperated wiring. I found that condition several inches back from the sensor on a 3 gen.
JS

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

Problem is fixed...One of the relays was faulty with no continuity when energized...

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

+1 for Matt93SE

LvR

Happy you found that relay, but surely if it was only the relay, "..I checked my temp gauge, and it was just sitting in the middle(normal).." doesn't support that as being the only problem ............. no?

Never had the misfortune to personally experience a boiling/close-to-boiling point situation on the VG, but would like to think that boiling in a pressurized coolant system would be indicated by the tempguage showing at least the temp not being "normal"?

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

I would have guessed a bad/faulty radiator cap. Is that an aftermarket radiator cap? do you know what its rated at?