Is it worth it?
#1
Is it worth it?
I have a 92 gxe with 122,000 miles on it . The brake line started leeking last night. Took it in to a shop today. They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc. Two new lines for the back are needed. The belts are showing wear and should be replaced, and the front drivers side tie rod is starting to loosen. There is rustting in spots around the frame. All the work is around $900 without the tie rod. Is it worth it??
#2
Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc.
Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
Two new lines for the back are needed.
Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
The belts are showing wear and should be replaced,
Just my thoughts...
#4
Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
I have a 92 gxe with 122,000 miles on it . The brake line started leeking last night. Took it in to a shop today. They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc. Two new lines for the back are needed. The belts are showing wear and should be replaced, and the front drivers side tie rod is starting to loosen. There is rustting in spots around the frame. All the work is around $900 without the tie rod. Is it worth it??
if it's you then yeah, keep it. you'll spend about a couple hundred on parts.
if it's him doing it all for $900 (parts and labor) then I'd give it serious thought.
if it's just $900 labor, then you better run the other way.
#5
So I had the brake lines done at a shop. Then a freind and I replaced all the pads, front and back, replaced back rotors, and back calipers, they were frozen. We bleed the brakes, and the brake pedal still seems low and soft and doesn't seem to stop as fast as it should. What else should I do?
Also the ABS light came on after we changed the brakes and it is flashing 5, front left sensor. Can I disconect the ABS, and how?
Thanks
Also the ABS light came on after we changed the brakes and it is flashing 5, front left sensor. Can I disconect the ABS, and how?
Thanks
#6
If the ABS light is on, then ABS is disabled and will NOT affect your normal braking.
You probably damaged the sensor when you were replacing the pads up front. The ABS lines are very fraglie and tend to get damaged when doing brake or axle work.
You probably damaged the sensor when you were replacing the pads up front. The ABS lines are very fraglie and tend to get damaged when doing brake or axle work.
#7
my girls brakes are the same way even after replacing both rear calipers, pads, rotors. front pads rotors and master cylinder and bleeding everything. not leaking fluid anyway..what else could it be since he seems to be having the same problem.
#8
So does that mean that its ok to drive with the light on? What about the softness in the brake pedal? Is it worth replaceing the ABS sensor? The one I saw at checker is $266, plus it looks like a lot of rusty bolts to take off.
#9
a soft or "spongee" pedal is normally a sign of a bad master cylinder OR air in the lines.
The ABS sensor is cheapest new at the dealer right now.
I just leave my ABS disabled and drive kinda Happy.
The ABS sensor is cheapest new at the dealer right now.
I just leave my ABS disabled and drive kinda Happy.
#13
Originally Posted by gregoryin07
this problem is problably caused by your master cylider so i would replace it
my MC is fine. it's the way the VE acts when an originally ABS equipped car has it's ABS disabled
#17
Originally Posted by internetautomar
...it's the way the VE acts when an originally ABS equipped car has it's ABS disabled
ABS sucks sometimes too. When I drive a 94 honda accord (vtak baby) to 110MPH and hit the brakes WOOOOOOOOOOH hold on cause that car will all but loose it on the highway even though ABS shouldnt be kicking in.
#22
Hi, I'm having a similar problem with my car. One day the brakes gave out and i had to push it all the way to the floor to get it to slow down just a little. I took it to my mechanic , he replaced the pads but said master cylinder needed to be replaced. I drove it for a week it was fine but the problem returned. I'm now looking for a master brake cylinder and can't decide whether i should have them do it or do it myself. they said they would install it for 60. Does anyone have any writeups or guides on how to do it yourself. or a source where to find a good master cylinder. the dealer one was reccommended but is it okay to use others? I drive a 93 SE
#23
at least you found a similar thread to jack into, props.
60 bucks. personally, since dealing with the brakes is kinda scary for your first time, i would just let them install.
finding one however, maybe someone can chime in...
60 bucks. personally, since dealing with the brakes is kinda scary for your first time, i would just let them install.
finding one however, maybe someone can chime in...
#24
$60 thats way cheap, while i am looking for one, but every one around here said that it shouldn't be the master cylinder in my case. Now when i am going over 50 and brake there is a lot of shaking to the front. Rotors???
Should i replace them??
Should i replace them??
#25
Originally Posted by renzokuken1227
Hi, I'm having a similar problem with my car. One day the brakes gave out and i had to push it all the way to the floor to get it to slow down just a little. I took it to my mechanic , he replaced the pads but said master cylinder needed to be replaced. I drove it for a week it was fine but the problem returned. I'm now looking for a master brake cylinder and can't decide whether i should have them do it or do it myself. they said they would install it for 60. Does anyone have any writeups or guides on how to do it yourself. or a source where to find a good master cylinder. the dealer one was reccommended but is it okay to use others? I drive a 93 SE
#27
While replacing the front rotors I found that there was a frozen pin on the left caliper and replaced that. It seems to have done the trick. The pedal seems better. It may be a bit softer because I haven't replaced the ABS sensor, but seems to stop straight and fine.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
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