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Is it worth it?

Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:22 AM
  #1  
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Is it worth it?

I have a 92 gxe with 122,000 miles on it . The brake line started leeking last night. Took it in to a shop today. They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc. Two new lines for the back are needed. The belts are showing wear and should be replaced, and the front drivers side tie rod is starting to loosen. There is rustting in spots around the frame. All the work is around $900 without the tie rod. Is it worth it??
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc.
Do the brakes yourself that will save some money, look at this website Brakewarehouse.com they are pretty incexpensive.

Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
Two new lines for the back are needed.
You can get SS brake lines IIRC here or somewhere else on the internet so look for those...

Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
The belts are showing wear and should be replaced,
It would save you money if you replaced them your self, you can find the belts at a local parts store (shucks, autozone, etc.)

Just my thoughts...
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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ya brake calipers, and to bad, even the junk yard might be a good palce


belts...... SO EASY, prob easyier than oil changes


but then if you dont do ur own oil changes then ya never know
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SSTEIN5252
I have a 92 gxe with 122,000 miles on it . The brake line started leeking last night. Took it in to a shop today. They said that both back brake calipers are frozen, needs pads, etc. Two new lines for the back are needed. The belts are showing wear and should be replaced, and the front drivers side tie rod is starting to loosen. There is rustting in spots around the frame. All the work is around $900 without the tie rod. Is it worth it??
the ultimate question is WHO is going to do the week?
if it's you then yeah, keep it. you'll spend about a couple hundred on parts.
if it's him doing it all for $900 (parts and labor) then I'd give it serious thought.
if it's just $900 labor, then you better run the other way.
Old Sep 19, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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So I had the brake lines done at a shop. Then a freind and I replaced all the pads, front and back, replaced back rotors, and back calipers, they were frozen. We bleed the brakes, and the brake pedal still seems low and soft and doesn't seem to stop as fast as it should. What else should I do?

Also the ABS light came on after we changed the brakes and it is flashing 5, front left sensor. Can I disconect the ABS, and how?
Thanks
Old Sep 19, 2006 | 04:13 PM
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If the ABS light is on, then ABS is disabled and will NOT affect your normal braking.

You probably damaged the sensor when you were replacing the pads up front. The ABS lines are very fraglie and tend to get damaged when doing brake or axle work.
Old Sep 19, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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my girls brakes are the same way even after replacing both rear calipers, pads, rotors. front pads rotors and master cylinder and bleeding everything. not leaking fluid anyway..what else could it be since he seems to be having the same problem.
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 05:41 AM
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So does that mean that its ok to drive with the light on? What about the softness in the brake pedal? Is it worth replaceing the ABS sensor? The one I saw at checker is $266, plus it looks like a lot of rusty bolts to take off.
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 07:34 AM
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a soft or "spongee" pedal is normally a sign of a bad master cylinder OR air in the lines.

The ABS sensor is cheapest new at the dealer right now.
I just leave my ABS disabled and drive kinda Happy.
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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incredibly happy?
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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nah, it stops, but it felt better with the ABS functional
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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this problem is problably caused by your master cylider so i would replace it
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gregoryin07
this problem is problably caused by your master cylider so i would replace it
if you are talking to me, you'd be wrong.
my MC is fine. it's the way the VE acts when an originally ABS equipped car has it's ABS disabled
Old Sep 20, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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ABS is one option I'm glad I DON'T have!
Old Sep 21, 2006 | 06:19 AM
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how much should a master cylinder cost? is it hard to do yourself? This is all new to me.
Old Sep 21, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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a brand new one is about $110
a reman will be considerably less.
if you need more pricing let me know
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
...it's the way the VE acts when an originally ABS equipped car has it's ABS disabled
Whats with that anyway

ABS sucks sometimes too. When I drive a 94 honda accord (vtak baby) to 110MPH and hit the brakes WOOOOOOOOOOH hold on cause that car will all but loose it on the highway even though ABS shouldnt be kicking in.
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 05:22 AM
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are you saying that it should be a bit soft with the abs disabled? is there a test that can be done to check this?
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 08:13 AM
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should it be a little softer? no
is it a little softer? yes

It can probably be remedied by either fixing the ABS or bypassing the rear load sensor valves
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 01:33 PM
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How do you bypass the rear load sensors?
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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look at them and think about it.
if you can't figure it out, then turn in your wrenches!
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Hi, I'm having a similar problem with my car. One day the brakes gave out and i had to push it all the way to the floor to get it to slow down just a little. I took it to my mechanic , he replaced the pads but said master cylinder needed to be replaced. I drove it for a week it was fine but the problem returned. I'm now looking for a master brake cylinder and can't decide whether i should have them do it or do it myself. they said they would install it for 60. Does anyone have any writeups or guides on how to do it yourself. or a source where to find a good master cylinder. the dealer one was reccommended but is it okay to use others? I drive a 93 SE
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:44 PM
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at least you found a similar thread to jack into, props.


60 bucks. personally, since dealing with the brakes is kinda scary for your first time, i would just let them install.

finding one however, maybe someone can chime in...
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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$60 thats way cheap, while i am looking for one, but every one around here said that it shouldn't be the master cylinder in my case. Now when i am going over 50 and brake there is a lot of shaking to the front. Rotors???
Should i replace them??
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by renzokuken1227
Hi, I'm having a similar problem with my car. One day the brakes gave out and i had to push it all the way to the floor to get it to slow down just a little. I took it to my mechanic , he replaced the pads but said master cylinder needed to be replaced. I drove it for a week it was fine but the problem returned. I'm now looking for a master brake cylinder and can't decide whether i should have them do it or do it myself. they said they would install it for 60. Does anyone have any writeups or guides on how to do it yourself. or a source where to find a good master cylinder. the dealer one was reccommended but is it okay to use others? I drive a 93 SE
do you have ABS on your car?
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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If the pedal was fine before, it should be fine now. Are you saying the pedal is soft BEFORE you bed the new pads/rotors? It will get better
Old Sep 29, 2006 | 05:38 AM
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While replacing the front rotors I found that there was a frozen pin on the left caliper and replaced that. It seems to have done the trick. The pedal seems better. It may be a bit softer because I haven't replaced the ABS sensor, but seems to stop straight and fine.
Thanks for all the help.
Old Oct 3, 2006 | 02:15 PM
  #28  
michaelvanle
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It'd depend on the condition of the car. For $900 I'd try to fix the problems that you can yourself.

We bought a 93 Maxima for a mere $1000. If that car ever give problems, we'd just dump it.
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